adamus said:
Adam, thanks for the heads up about bluebell, saw your post over at head-fi, finally found some hammond iron in the UK! Thanks for the image. How much did it cost you from bluebell for all the iron?
the whole lot (output x2, choke, power, valves bases, ecc803 x2, tag strips, hammond chassis with bottom plate, few more bits and bobs) came to about £240ish.
6p14p x 8 were £18.
6p14p x 8 were £18.
An even easier Baby Huey build would be to use the ECL86 tubes - this was the configuration of the original BH and sounds wonderful - schematic attached. This was my first venture with tubes 2 years ago & I modified a Rogers Cadet II into a BH - not difficult at all
Original thread from Gingertube: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=53969&perpage=20&highlight=&pagenumber=1
Original thread from Gingertube: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=53969&perpage=20&highlight=&pagenumber=1
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cheaper too! ecl86 are fairly cheap.
Rhys, you could cheapen the iron considerable, i used 1650e (you would get away with the cheaper hammonds), Choke you could scrimp on. You would probably knock 50 or 60 off the bill.
Rhys, you could cheapen the iron considerable, i used 1650e (you would get away with the cheaper hammonds), Choke you could scrimp on. You would probably knock 50 or 60 off the bill.
adamus said:
I must finish the beta22, the firstwatt f5, the b1 and the bijou before i start i guess. No way i can afford all this on £5ph, 10 hours a week 😱
I used a step drill bit, but half way through found a chassis punch in my father in laws workshop. Easy job with one of those. Rapidonline sell them.
that is what the exchange rate has done. 8 months ago one order from edcor and its barely the price of the single hammond power transformer, and probably better quality.
honeymoon period is over with sterling....
that is what the exchange rate has done. 8 months ago one order from edcor and its barely the price of the single hammond power transformer, and probably better quality.
honeymoon period is over with sterling....
Rhysh,
If you can pick up a cheap working Rogers Cadet II or III you will have everything you need - 4*ECL86, PS trafo, output trafos, retro case, knobs, etc, etc - just a tiny bit of re-wiring to do & you'll have an excellent amp. This is what I did & I still have 3 ECC807s to sell on ebay for ~ £70-90.
Being in the UK you may well get one of these Rogers easily.
Edit: I have schematics for the Rogers if you want & can give you directions on the re-wiring
If you can pick up a cheap working Rogers Cadet II or III you will have everything you need - 4*ECL86, PS trafo, output trafos, retro case, knobs, etc, etc - just a tiny bit of re-wiring to do & you'll have an excellent amp. This is what I did & I still have 3 ECC807s to sell on ebay for ~ £70-90.
Being in the UK you may well get one of these Rogers easily.
Edit: I have schematics for the Rogers if you want & can give you directions on the re-wiring
jkeny said:
I will have a look out for the Rogers amplifiers, but as this is probably my first and only tube build, i may stick to all new parts, depending on how good of a deal i could get on the rogers.
Adam did you have any hum problems with your amplifier, or anything related? I really dont fancy doing all this p2p wiring to have to take it all out again!
Dont get me started on the exchange rate, buying hundreds of PCB's every month costs a fortune! Stupid USD.
Dont get me started on the exchange rate, buying hundreds of PCB's every month costs a fortune! Stupid USD.
couple of weeks. chassis work was the vast majority of that. The rest (apart from one technical hitch) was fairly simple.
Very Very tempting. I think i will go for it, maybe the simple version that jkeny posted.
I see you too have moved over from headamps to bigger power amps 😎
Any chance of a rear shot of your amp?
I see you too have moved over from headamps to bigger power amps 😎
Any chance of a rear shot of your amp?
In the states (and maybe everywhere) the popular stepped drill bit is a Unibit(tm). I think they are available in several sizes, but the larger ones get expensive.
To minimize hum, use solid core wire for the heaters, twist tightly, and tuck into the edge/corners of the chassis only venturing out when connecting to a tube socket. Keep the wires twisted as close to the socket as possible. Wire the output tube heaters first, then end up at the driver tube(s). Keep the heater wires as far away from the sig wires as possible.
To minimize hum, use solid core wire for the heaters, twist tightly, and tuck into the edge/corners of the chassis only venturing out when connecting to a tube socket. Keep the wires twisted as close to the socket as possible. Wire the output tube heaters first, then end up at the driver tube(s). Keep the heater wires as far away from the sig wires as possible.
Rhys, I dont have any pics of its rear. but i can assure you its very neat!.
Takening on board advice given in the huey thread, i had power down one side, then ran the signal down the other.
Takening on board advice given in the huey thread, i had power down one side, then ran the signal down the other.
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