That's the only thing I am afraid about, the switch contacts. My last rotary switch I bought from ebay fails from time to time. In some positions, you only have sound in one channel, you have to move it a bit to have a good engadgement.
But is not really a concern, it happens only once for every 20 or 30 times I move the switch. And for the price, you can't beat it. An stereo 23 steps switch for 10$, shipping included. I have mine mounted with Dale's and sound wonderful.
dantwomey, I really like your approach. But as you don't need the pots to be good ones, you can use some cheapers. I may do something as you if I is possible to find cheaper motor controlled pots.
But is not really a concern, it happens only once for every 20 or 30 times I move the switch. And for the price, you can't beat it. An stereo 23 steps switch for 10$, shipping included. I have mine mounted with Dale's and sound wonderful.
dantwomey, I really like your approach. But as you don't need the pots to be good ones, you can use some cheapers. I may do something as you if I is possible to find cheaper motor controlled pots.
dantwomey, I really like your approach. But as you don't need the pots to be good ones, you can use some cheapers. I may do something as you if I is possible to find cheaper motor controlled pots.
Yes, so far giving our buffer some sort of remote control is just an idea. When the time comes to do it I'll post here for the most cost effective way to achieve that goal.
Regards,
Dan 😀
Then I will start documenting myself about the different ways of controlling a motor. Never built anything like it. I will have a chat with my dad, an old school microcontroller programmer 😀
Here is remote control for Alps;
eBay.ie: IR CONTROL REMOTE SET f ALPS motorized potentiometer (item 350264537471 end time 11-Apr-10 07:04:44 BST)
Not cheap, available with input relay control too, for 100 euro.
eBay.ie: IR CONTROL REMOTE SET f ALPS motorized potentiometer (item 350264537471 end time 11-Apr-10 07:04:44 BST)
Not cheap, available with input relay control too, for 100 euro.
🙂 Two Bugs running fine
Question: on both the 5 LED's on negative rail light brighter than
on the other. How does that come ??
(Out Voltage is 9,7V/10,5V)
regards Michael
Question: on both the 5 LED's on negative rail light brighter than
on the other. How does that come ??
(Out Voltage is 9,7V/10,5V)
regards Michael
The positive Vref is running more current normally. Not enough to see a marked brightness difference, but I would expect it on the plus Vref Leds if obvious with some Leds.
P.S. Happy listening, and post us pics and experiences, like when going holidays.🙂
P.S. Happy listening, and post us pics and experiences, like when going holidays.🙂
Hi,
so have you built up your DC B1's?
anyone compare to B1 sound?
how do you like it overall?
thx
so have you built up your DC B1's?
anyone compare to B1 sound?
how do you like it overall?
thx
Thanks Salas, it's positive rail. You can see on the pic.
Sound is really great. I'll add some P3 coolers next to run at higher current.
At the moment it has it's place and I'm sure I would miss the bug much
if it runs away 😉
Here two pics, with LSQR2 from analog-forum.
Sound is really great. I'll add some P3 coolers next to run at higher current.
At the moment it has it's place and I'm sure I would miss the bug much
if it runs away 😉
Here two pics, with LSQR2 from analog-forum.
Attachments
Can someone send me the schematic for the auxiliary circuit portion of the Mesmerize? I mean the time delayed Mute relay and input selection relays portion of the PCB.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks Salas, it's positive rail. You can see on the pic.
Sound is really great. I'll add some P3 coolers next to run at higher current.
At the moment it has it's place and I'm sure I would miss the bug much
if it runs away 😉
Here two pics, with LSQR2 from analog-forum.
Nice build. Congratulations. In what system you test?
Can someone send me the schematic for the auxiliary circuit portion of the Mesmerize? I mean the time delayed Mute relay and input selection relays portion of the PCB.
Thanks in advance.
Attachments
Nice build. Congratulations. In what system you test?
Thanks
Naim CD / EzDac - F5 / Synola 509 - Isophon Vertigo
Not a little system... Big expensive speakers. Did you put it against some preamp with gain or was it a passive box before?
P.S. How the SE EL509 compares to F5 there?
P.S. How the SE EL509 compares to F5 there?
I own two pairs of these speakers, but got them for a good price.
One pair is modified.
I used them with a SAC epsilon / 2 x NAD 218 bridged.
But thsi system was only loud. The SAC is very good. The NAD are on sale next.
The SE EL509 has much more bass (maybe a little too much) than F5
but without loosing the detailed highs of a tube.
Only cause of my cats I using F5 more at the moment.
One pair is modified.
I used them with a SAC epsilon / 2 x NAD 218 bridged.
But thsi system was only loud. The SAC is very good. The NAD are on sale next.
The SE EL509 has much more bass (maybe a little too much) than F5
but without loosing the detailed highs of a tube.
Only cause of my cats I using F5 more at the moment.
Maybe the single ended valve amp creates the sense of bass volume by loose damping factor on the big speaker? Its low impedance too.
Not sure. The bass is dry and clear without hum.
I'll hear it next with some small high efficency speaker from a friend, we will see.
I'll hear it next with some small high efficency speaker from a friend, we will see.
Here is remote control for Alps;
eBay.ie: IR CONTROL REMOTE SET f ALPS motorized potentiometer (item 350264537471 end time 11-Apr-10 07:04:44 BST)
Not cheap, available with input relay control too, for 100 euro.
Its a really nice combo! But at firts, I will prefer to go with the DIY approach, is the funnier one 😀
You have a nice integrated built up there. As I can see, is that a remotely controlled relays switcher? Seems to sound really clean. Just try the bypass film cap mod and changing the resistor to up the CCS 😎 don't forget to make it at least 5W if you do that.Thanks Salas, it's positive rail. You can see on the pic.
Sound is really great. I'll add some P3 coolers next to run at higher current.
At the moment it has it's place and I'm sure I would miss the bug much
if it runs away 😉
Here two pics, with LSQR2 from analog-forum.
Its a really nice combo! But at firts, I will prefer to go with the DIY approach, is the funnier one 😀
Yes, I prefer DIY too, and maybe for less than 100 euro...
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- Building a symmetrical PSU B1 buffer