It's genuinely my pleasure.
This is a small group of people in a hobby that is anachronistic as heck. If this group stays engaged and maybe even brings in somebody new once in a while, then my job is complete. 😀 😀 😀
This is a small group of people in a hobby that is anachronistic as heck. If this group stays engaged and maybe even brings in somebody new once in a while, then my job is complete. 😀 😀 😀
Picture of a central grounding post
Folkdeath:
Below is a picture (sorry it is kind of blurry) of the central ground post in my Pearl build - from post #2730 of the Pearl Two thread.
It is the brass bolt just to the right of the diode bridge in the picture.
Chassis ground (from the wall outlet) and one side of the "grounding diode bridge" land there.
The chassis is also grounded at that point by a stainless steel star washer under the bottom ring terminal.
I used a one box solution for PSU and Pearl boards but if you have an outboard PSU then you would need to run one ground wire from chassis ground in the PSU to the center grounding post and a separate wire from the center point between the PSU caps to the ground on each of the Pearl boards.
The tonearm ground (white terminal post in the back), and the ground for each of the Pearl boards are routed separately and land at the center point between the two UPSU boards, i.e. at the Neutral point between the Positive and Negative capacitors in the PSU.
I hope this helps but let me know if you have any questions.
Folkdeath:
Below is a picture (sorry it is kind of blurry) of the central ground post in my Pearl build - from post #2730 of the Pearl Two thread.
It is the brass bolt just to the right of the diode bridge in the picture.
Chassis ground (from the wall outlet) and one side of the "grounding diode bridge" land there.
The chassis is also grounded at that point by a stainless steel star washer under the bottom ring terminal.
I used a one box solution for PSU and Pearl boards but if you have an outboard PSU then you would need to run one ground wire from chassis ground in the PSU to the center grounding post and a separate wire from the center point between the PSU caps to the ground on each of the Pearl boards.
The tonearm ground (white terminal post in the back), and the ground for each of the Pearl boards are routed separately and land at the center point between the two UPSU boards, i.e. at the Neutral point between the Positive and Negative capacitors in the PSU.
I hope this helps but let me know if you have any questions.
Das Proekt Pearl two soweit habe ich abgeschlossen. Es lauft super. Ich uberlege mich einen fuenften sk170 dazu einloeten. Ich benutze Pearl zu einemOrtofon mc30 super mkii und 0,2mV ist schon eine Herausvorderung.
Was sollte ich in schematik noch aendern, dass due ganze funktioniert. Von DC-Versorgung habe ich reichlich, also 100W.
Was sollte ich in schematik noch aendern, dass due ganze funktioniert. Von DC-Versorgung habe ich reichlich, also 100W.
Pearl 2 is playing nicely
Finished building my Pearl 2. Wow does this thing sound great. Very quiet, I am very impressed! here are some pictures. Sorry if they are large
Debra
Finished building my Pearl 2. Wow does this thing sound great. Very quiet, I am very impressed! here are some pictures. Sorry if they are large
Debra
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The inside of Power supply
The power supply.
Thinking of replacing the LED with an illuminated anti-vandal switch. I have one that is 22mm black with a purple ring illumination. Still trying to decide to drill the hole out or not. I kind of like the minimalist look of the single LED.
Debra
I just finished my PSU.
It works OK, but I measured +/-38V.
I didn't test the transformer when I bought it a few months ago, but when I checked this evening, I discovered that it gives 28V instead of the 24V it should...
Will 38V be OK for the Pearl2 boards?
If not, is there any option other than buying a new transformer?
It works OK, but I measured +/-38V.
I didn't test the transformer when I bought it a few months ago, but when I checked this evening, I discovered that it gives 28V instead of the 24V it should...
Will 38V be OK for the Pearl2 boards?
If not, is there any option other than buying a new transformer?
You are reading the voltage under no load. With a load it will decrease by a few volts.
All looks good so far!
All looks good so far!
I finally finished my Pearl2 on wednesday evening.
I found the offset adjustment rather tricky, even with a cap in serie with R14. It changed when I removed the screwdriver from the trimmer, so I had to adjust-remove hand-read voltage-adjust again-remove my hand again-etc...
Well it seems to be OK now.
I didn't have time to listen to it, I will try tomorrow.
I found the offset adjustment rather tricky, even with a cap in serie with R14. It changed when I removed the screwdriver from the trimmer, so I had to adjust-remove hand-read voltage-adjust again-remove my hand again-etc...
Well it seems to be OK now.
I didn't have time to listen to it, I will try tomorrow.
Thought it was, just checking. Thanks.
I have a itch to make a mu-metal cover 'shroud' for a few transformers I have in various bits of kit where the transformer is close to the circuits..just to see if I can hear any perceivable difference.
Out of interest, what is the preferred 22uF output cap other than a litic ?? Film/Polyprop?
TIA
TIA
Hi,
Where did you get the self-adhesive mu-metal sheet? I want to install it to my pearl 2.
Regards
Where did you get the self-adhesive mu-metal sheet? I want to install it to my pearl 2.
Regards