Mine is a complete rebuild from a garage find.
Only the outer platter, wooden chassis, Arm Board and motor remain from the original LP12.
If you look back at #615 you will see the work in progress.
Only the outer platter, wooden chassis, Arm Board and motor remain from the original LP12.
If you look back at #615 you will see the work in progress.
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I'm just redoing the PSU. I had problems getting enough heat into the copper bar between the two caps to make a 100% connection. I'm replacing the copper bar with a solid nickel terminal strip.
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Pearl 2 PSU ready and tested.
OK I've now finished the Pearl 2 PSU and have it all tested.
I just need to verify that the PSU connections to the main unit are as expected before I power up the complete set-up and test the Pearl 2 itself.
I can't seem to find the post where someone has annotated the schematic with the correct voltage readings ??
The caps might seem like overkill but the entire PSU came out of my parts bin.
OK I've now finished the Pearl 2 PSU and have it all tested.
I just need to verify that the PSU connections to the main unit are as expected before I power up the complete set-up and test the Pearl 2 itself.
I can't seem to find the post where someone has annotated the schematic with the correct voltage readings ??
The caps might seem like overkill but the entire PSU came out of my parts bin.
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I might have been one of the lucky few, I do fully appreciate ESD handling.
Just powered up the Pearl 2 and both channels adjust to 0V, fluctuating around +/- 10mV.
Just powered up the Pearl 2 and both channels adjust to 0V, fluctuating around +/- 10mV.
That's great! Give it a signal and see what happens!
BTW, using up bits from the parts bin is always an excellent idea - no such thing as overkill if it's appropriate and fits. 🙂 🙂 🙂
BTW, using up bits from the parts bin is always an excellent idea - no such thing as overkill if it's appropriate and fits. 🙂 🙂 🙂
Capacitors are too far from bridges, I would solder them directly on the caps soldering tabs. 33nf X2 is not for switch protection , but to reduce mains noise. For arcing protection VDR between live and neutral is the best solution.
Just for safety's sake, to prevent the exposed terminals from contact with the chassis a covering with a film of non-conductive plastic like acrylic, polyethylene, polypro etc. (Some ABS plastics are conductive!) My HV supplies use a woven fiberGlas panel (Garolite) to prevent arcing.
The aim is to use the Pearl with my P1.7 and Aleph 4.
Where would you put the volume pot. ?
As it stands I've got it at the input of the P1.7.
Where would you put the volume pot. ?
As it stands I've got it at the input of the P1.7.
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Looking good! Proposed volume pot location is good, so now it's time to hook it up and give a listen!
Well good news and bad.
All hooked up and total black silence. Absolutely nothing, no noise nor any music from either channel.
Dooohhhh!! It does help if the arm cable is plugged into the arm.
Absolutely great.
Absolutely tomb silent even with the low output Linn Arkiv MC cartridge.
All hooked up and total black silence. Absolutely nothing, no noise nor any music from either channel.
Dooohhhh!! It does help if the arm cable is plugged into the arm.
Absolutely great.
Absolutely tomb silent even with the low output Linn Arkiv MC cartridge.
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My first observations with my Pearl 2 is it needs more gain with the Linn Arkiv.
Hooray, I'm one of the lucky ones whos Pearl 2 worked first time.
Hooray, I'm one of the lucky ones whos Pearl 2 worked first time.
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![20151103_170243[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/481/481451-3dbe8db5c90f147e8c7a33ba30283876.jpg?hash=Pb6NtckPFH)
I must say how pleasantly surprised I am with the quality of this design, It is absolutely tomb quiet when built correctly as mine has been.