Building a large four-way, using premium, JBL drivers, building test cabs and would love some input

But with WMTMW design that will put this center to center spacing of the midbasses further apart, won’t that increase the comb filtering? I thought I would want them as close to each other as possible, is that correct? I do love the look of it oriented that way though. if you think I could get away with it in my design, I am 100% down to installing it vertically.

Well look at the attached graphic and the posted project which could help reduce the C to C spacing. You seem to be going high on the crossover on the 10's so I would look at wavelength vs spacing. If you stick to 800hz in the passive crossover in the 9800 using the passive network the spacing will be easier to achieve.

WRT WMTMW? To me you just don't need to. You can get excellent results with a much simpler set-up. As you try things in the stack see if you can get the MTM to work and if it is better with than without.

With MTM spacing it is going to be really hard to get a vertical horn to work. Just do a simple horizontal vs vertical to see what works image wise compared to the MTM. What ever you prefer go for it!

Have fun!

https://fohonline.com/articles/tech-feature/dyi-loudspeaker-design-the-bc-215-dcx/

Rob 🙂
 

Attachments

  • x-over-fx1.jpg
    x-over-fx1.jpg
    198.6 KB · Views: 33
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: saabracer23
I am open to running full DSP, but the reason I am running the passive crossovers is to protect these expensive horns. Heaven forbid one of my amplifiers to put out full rail voltage DC, which would be near or over 100 V depending on the amp I use, and those drivers would be gone in a flash. I am going with the 800 Hz crossover point, because that’s what JBL came up with. If you think the 251J can cleanly play higher without any break up then I’m certainly open to trying it. If I cross at 1200 Hz, it basically just becomes a large 3” tweeter. I know of some diy designs where a 1” dome is crossed near that.

If I ran the horns on DSP, how about putting a large capacitor in line to prevent any DC from reaching the drivers? Would that negatively affect the speaker?

The only reason I am thinking about going lower with the midbass is because of the experience of widget over at the Lansing Heritage forums. He did something similar to what I’m doing, but with Tad drivers, but used the same sub1500 woofers. He has the 10 inch TAD crossing to the 15 at 75hz. I’m pretty sure he said he did not try any higher than 100 Hz though. Here is his speaker
View attachment 1339548
View attachment 1339549
But I 100% understand the negative effects of a woofer moving a lot while at the same time producing frequencies up higher. Same reason why I’m not super fond of 5-1/4” or 6” two ways that are supposed to be capable of full range. I built these to use in my lab, and while they can produce some fantastic bass on their own it can sound a little off when that woofer is going full tilt.
View attachment 1339550

So I decided to build and put 4 ten inch Peerless NE265w under the bench and high passed the speakers. Much, much better. But I figure even at 100 hz the 251Js wouldn’t be moving all that much right?
View attachment 1339551




That is a fantastic idea, and I’ve actually thought about that in the past, kind of wanting to clone one of the array speakers. But with WMTMW design that will put this center to center spacing of the midbasses further apart, won’t that increase the comb filtering? I thought I would want them as close to each other as possible, is that correct? I do love the look of it oriented that way though. if you think I could get away with it in my design, I am 100% down to installing it vertically.

Nice, is that your setup? Or was?


Oh, wow, that’s a fantastic idea. I had not thought of doing aperiodic. I have never built one, only experience being with basically the Dynaco. What would you recommend? Drill like a 3 inch or a 2 inch hole in the back of the cabinet, staple in some screen material, and stuff the denim insulation up against it?

Dan
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/flares/ports/vents/scanspeak-290001-aperiodic-vent-ssv/

Ive used these in the past as their well made and convenient and consistent…….you can use the same principal in a DIy effort and leave yourself the option to interchange materials for the resistant portion.