Do you have C12 = 10μF 20% 63V, 6.3mm diam., 2.5mm pitch polarized for the power supply?
Depending on shipping to sweden i would be interested in a pair
I probably have but need to check tomorrow, as I don't have the components at home, I'll let you know in the morning
Note!
C12 is a 10uF 20% 63V, 6.3MM diam., 2.5mm pitch.
In Elektor's BOM list it was listed incorrectly with Farnell code 1236680.
Under this number it is actually a Non-Polarised capacitor 10uF 63V.
On page 26 of Preamplifier 2012 (3) C12 is actually a 10uF 63V, and should not be Non-Polarised.
I have some 10uF 100v. Their size are ok.
C12 is a 10uF 20% 63V, 6.3MM diam., 2.5mm pitch.
In Elektor's BOM list it was listed incorrectly with Farnell code 1236680.
Under this number it is actually a Non-Polarised capacitor 10uF 63V.
On page 26 of Preamplifier 2012 (3) C12 is actually a 10uF 63V, and should not be Non-Polarised.
I have some 10uF 100v. Their size are ok.
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My Elektor Q-Watt amp (dual ch.) is now up and running, quality is spot on!
Post #368
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-...t-project.html
I hope now to return to the Elektor Preamplifier 2012 as soon as possible
Post #368
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-...t-project.html
I hope now to return to the Elektor Preamplifier 2012 as soon as possible
Can anyone help with regards to templates to be able to drill the required holes for the
Input PCB (x2) and also for the Front Panel PCB?
I was a step too quick and all components, sockets etc. are soldered in place.
Any ideas please.
Input PCB (x2) and also for the Front Panel PCB?
I was a step too quick and all components, sockets etc. are soldered in place.
Any ideas please.
Couple of thoughts:
On one of the other associated forum threads someone posted the files for the front and back panels. The files are to be used with the software "Front Panel Express". You could print the panels and use as a template.
I made high resolution scans of my boards before stuffing them. You are welcome to these files. I also have the Front Panel Express files. Just send me a PM.
On one of the other associated forum threads someone posted the files for the front and back panels. The files are to be used with the software "Front Panel Express". You could print the panels and use as a template.
I made high resolution scans of my boards before stuffing them. You are welcome to these files. I also have the Front Panel Express files. Just send me a PM.
Ive only just been able to get back to this very delayed Preamplifier project.
Ive emailed Schaeffer AG: Home in the hope they can do the work i need for the drilling etc.
Let's see
Ive emailed Schaeffer AG: Home in the hope they can do the work i need for the drilling etc.
Let's see
I am using the R.S. case 665-7719 | PF-19 Ventilated Rackmount Enclosure with Handles, 2U, 84 HP, 245mm Deep |
Might anyone having used this case have the Front Panel Designer files they used?
With thanks
Might anyone having used this case have the Front Panel Designer files they used?
With thanks
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/214635-ne-5532-preamplifier-doug-self-elektor-2012-a-6.html#post5202416
If i'm to use the Front Panel Designer files from post 18, then based on muskyhuntr's post 6, i would like to ask about the following:-
Power On/Off switch used and order number?
Toggle Switches used for: -
Tone Defeat
MM / MC
IEC Amendment
Mains input socket (i need 240v) used and order number?
With thanks
If i'm to use the Front Panel Designer files from post 18, then based on muskyhuntr's post 6, i would like to ask about the following:-
Power On/Off switch used and order number?
Toggle Switches used for: -
Tone Defeat
MM / MC
IEC Amendment
Mains input socket (i need 240v) used and order number?
With thanks
The mains input is FN9263-4-06 and available from DigiKey.
The toggle switches were originally purchased from DigiKey but seem to be no longer avaiable. Try EBay. Black R13-402 Round ON-OFF-ON Maintained SPDT Toggle Switch 3Pin 3Position | eBay. The part number for these switches is R13-402.
The power switch was something I had on hand. No information is available.
Me
The toggle switches were originally purchased from DigiKey but seem to be no longer avaiable. Try EBay. Black R13-402 Round ON-OFF-ON Maintained SPDT Toggle Switch 3Pin 3Position | eBay. The part number for these switches is R13-402.
The power switch was something I had on hand. No information is available.
Me
Hi muskyhuntr,
That mains input, FN9263-4-06 from DigiKey, has a power On/Off switch.
What switch type is the one you've used on your front panel?
Might you have the part number and type number/names for those DigiKey toggle switches you used?
I looked at that EBay link, but those are ON-OFF-ON types, and the cutting hole for those is 15mm.
Ordering from EBay means most supplies from China (quality?) takes at least a month to arrive.
The Elektor toggle switch type used was http://export.farnell.com/multicomp/1ms1t1b5m1qe/switch-spdt-2-0a-250v/dp/9473378?ost=9473378&scope=partnumberlookahead&exaMfpn=true&searchref=searchlookahead&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3Aen-EX%2FElement14_Export%2Fw%2Fsearch
But the cutting hole for these are 6.35mm, not 15mm.
So another E-Bay search gave me: -
5Pcs R13 Black 3Pin ON-ON Round Paddle Maintained Toggle Switch 2Position SPDT | eBay
The cutting hole for these are 15mm.
As i mentioned i have a R.S. Components case | PF-19 Ventilated Rackmount Enclosure with Handles, 2U, 84 HP, 245mm Deep | and i believe you have used the same case.
Ideally i would prefer to use the orginal Farnell toggle switches, but this would need the Front Panel Designer files to be amended (not my cup of tea).
The front panel design in post #6 NE 5532 PreAmplifier from Doug Self, Elektor 2012, is clearly for the 15mm DigiKey toggle switches.
I'm really at a loss what's best to do.
That mains input, FN9263-4-06 from DigiKey, has a power On/Off switch.
What switch type is the one you've used on your front panel?
Might you have the part number and type number/names for those DigiKey toggle switches you used?
I looked at that EBay link, but those are ON-OFF-ON types, and the cutting hole for those is 15mm.
Ordering from EBay means most supplies from China (quality?) takes at least a month to arrive.
The Elektor toggle switch type used was http://export.farnell.com/multicomp/1ms1t1b5m1qe/switch-spdt-2-0a-250v/dp/9473378?ost=9473378&scope=partnumberlookahead&exaMfpn=true&searchref=searchlookahead&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3Aen-EX%2FElement14_Export%2Fw%2Fsearch
But the cutting hole for these are 6.35mm, not 15mm.
So another E-Bay search gave me: -
5Pcs R13 Black 3Pin ON-ON Round Paddle Maintained Toggle Switch 2Position SPDT | eBay
The cutting hole for these are 15mm.
As i mentioned i have a R.S. Components case | PF-19 Ventilated Rackmount Enclosure with Handles, 2U, 84 HP, 245mm Deep | and i believe you have used the same case.
Ideally i would prefer to use the orginal Farnell toggle switches, but this would need the Front Panel Designer files to be amended (not my cup of tea).
The front panel design in post #6 NE 5532 PreAmplifier from Doug Self, Elektor 2012, is clearly for the 15mm DigiKey toggle switches.
I'm really at a loss what's best to do.
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The power input connector on my pre-amp has a power switch as well as a line filter. Those are the reasons I choose it. The one I posted is the one I used. I have no idea as to what the power switch on the front panel is. It was a part I had on hand at the time.
r13-402 is the marking on the 3 front panel switches. I had originally bought them from DigiKey, but it seems that they are no longer available there. The part I posted was from EBay thru a quick search. Try this one: SCI R13-402 Round 2Pin ON-OFF SPST 2Position Toggle Switch 3A 250VAC | eBay.
As for the front power switch, any 2 position rotary switch capable of handling a few amps at 250V would work. Just look for one that matches your mounting hole.
Note that the chassis I used was an EBay item also, I don't know if the one you are using is the same as mine.
Jim
r13-402 is the marking on the 3 front panel switches. I had originally bought them from DigiKey, but it seems that they are no longer available there. The part I posted was from EBay thru a quick search. Try this one: SCI R13-402 Round 2Pin ON-OFF SPST 2Position Toggle Switch 3A 250VAC | eBay.
As for the front power switch, any 2 position rotary switch capable of handling a few amps at 250V would work. Just look for one that matches your mounting hole.
Note that the chassis I used was an EBay item also, I don't know if the one you are using is the same as mine.
Jim
NE 5532 PreAmplifier from Doug Self, Elektor 2012
From post #56, i assumed that you were using the same case.
My R.S. case measures - Front panel Width 483mm, Height 88mm, Rear panel Width 394mm, Height 80mm.
Ive found something similar SCI R13-402C-05 SPDT Toggle Switch 250V AC 3A | Rapid Online, i'll check a bit further and see.
My main concern that is holding me back are the switches (cutting hole diameters) to then match a Front Panel design template, that i don't have.
From post #56, i assumed that you were using the same case.
My R.S. case measures - Front panel Width 483mm, Height 88mm, Rear panel Width 394mm, Height 80mm.
Ive found something similar SCI R13-402C-05 SPDT Toggle Switch 250V AC 3A | Rapid Online, i'll check a bit further and see.
My main concern that is holding me back are the switches (cutting hole diameters) to then match a Front Panel design template, that i don't have.
I made up the interconnects as twisted pairs (two way) and similar for the three way and four way leads using Harwin M20-1 series header housings and crimps. Wire size was 22AWG of appropriate colours for role. The end result works great and has no issues with crosstalk or hum.
Farnell p/nos for these are:
865606 M20-1060200 2-way housing
865618 M20-1060300 3-way housing
865920 M20-1060400 4-way housing
1022219 M20-118042 crimp 22AWG to 30AWG
Others used coax in place of twisted pairs and reported these were great too.
The lead between the two input board and source selector front panel board is a 10-way flat ribbon cable.
Geoff
I too cannot hear any difference between using coaxial cable and twisted pair for interconnects.
I also use twisted pair internally.
I have tried using small diameter coaxial internally but the extra hassle does not seem to bring any benefit.
But I am a stickler for minimising EMI by implementing adequate RF filtering and using LOW LOOP AREA terminations at the cable ends.
My soom to be delivered RTX measurement system may provide some evidence that coaxial is better than twisted pair. But I will have to wait a while to get comparative results.
I also use twisted pair internally.
I have tried using small diameter coaxial internally but the extra hassle does not seem to bring any benefit.
But I am a stickler for minimising EMI by implementing adequate RF filtering and using LOW LOOP AREA terminations at the cable ends.
My soom to be delivered RTX measurement system may provide some evidence that coaxial is better than twisted pair. But I will have to wait a while to get comparative results.
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Thanks Geoff for this information
What Co-Ax did you use?
Could you give me the type of Wire size 22AWG, that you used?
What Co-Ax did you use?
Could you give me the type of Wire size 22AWG, that you used?
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865606 M20-1060200 2-way housing - RS Equiv. = 681-2812
865618 M20-1060300 3-way housing - RS Equiv. = 681-2821
865620
(not 865920) M20-1060400 4-way housing - RS Equiv. = 681-2824
1022219 M20-118042 crimp 22AWG to 30AWG - RS Equiv. = 681-2878
865618 M20-1060300 3-way housing - RS Equiv. = 681-2821
865620
(not 865920) M20-1060400 4-way housing - RS Equiv. = 681-2824
1022219 M20-118042 crimp 22AWG to 30AWG - RS Equiv. = 681-2878
I didn't use coax. All wiring (apart from 10-way flat ribbon between front panel source selector switch and input board relays) was twisted pairs / triples with 22AWG wire.
For the black wire, Farnell o/n, manufacturer/n, etc.:
1764928 6713 BK005 AlphaWire Eco-wire, black
For other colours, Farnell o/n varies but AlphaWire p/n just changes the two letter segment of their p/n. e.g. orange wire is 6713 OR005.
For Power feeds between PSU and each board, I used slightly thicker wire and ran them as three wires tightly twisted together. The wire was cheapish stuff from Maplins that I already had in my parts box.
Geoff
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