Nice! 🙂
Are you going to use boards, or point to point like me?
I haven't seen any other point to point-aikido:s... Maybe I just haven't found them...
Of course people want tu use Broskies pcb:s! Everyone says they are excellent! 🙂
Are you going to use boards, or point to point like me?
I haven't seen any other point to point-aikido:s... Maybe I just haven't found them...
Of course people want tu use Broskies pcb:s! Everyone says they are excellent! 🙂
Hi Olle!
I am confused that you can not find the 5687 tube. It is clearly stated in the Broskie 9-pin Mono Board Rev. B which I sent you 21.07.2008.
If you can not find the mail please let me know and I will forward it again (OK - done!).
BTW, which parts / values did you use to make your PSU work perfectly?
Kind regards
Karsten 😀
Question added and spelling error corrected...
I am confused that you can not find the 5687 tube. It is clearly stated in the Broskie 9-pin Mono Board Rev. B which I sent you 21.07.2008.
If you can not find the mail please let me know and I will forward it again (OK - done!).
BTW, which parts / values did you use to make your PSU work perfectly?
Kind regards
Karsten 😀
Question added and spelling error corrected...
Hi karsten!
I mixed things up! Actually I have 3 aikido pdf:s. They are all different 🙂
One of them is revision B, which you gave me 🙂
There it's easy to find the 5687-tube 🙂
I will take a look at it tomorrow 🙂
The power supply is built by parts I already had at home.
In the aikido-pdf there is a power supply with a choke.
I used the same bridge with these resistors and caps over the diodes! (it's called snubbers I think...)
After the bridge I put 47µF -> 820ohm -> 150µF -> 820ohm ->150µF
A normal simple CRCRC-supply!
I also put film-caps near the signal components between B+ and ground!
There is a picture at page 7.
Because the amplifier is totally quiet, I don't think I need any more sections...
Good night! It's late here in sweden 🙂
I mixed things up! Actually I have 3 aikido pdf:s. They are all different 🙂
One of them is revision B, which you gave me 🙂
There it's easy to find the 5687-tube 🙂
I will take a look at it tomorrow 🙂
The power supply is built by parts I already had at home.
In the aikido-pdf there is a power supply with a choke.
I used the same bridge with these resistors and caps over the diodes! (it's called snubbers I think...)
After the bridge I put 47µF -> 820ohm -> 150µF -> 820ohm ->150µF
A normal simple CRCRC-supply!
I also put film-caps near the signal components between B+ and ground!
There is a picture at page 7.
Because the amplifier is totally quiet, I don't think I need any more sections...
Good night! It's late here in sweden 🙂
My Aikido is alive!
It's still on the breadboard; I connected my ipod shuffle, connected the output of the Aikido to a pair of active computer speakers and I had great sound emanating from the speakers.
So far I couldn't hear any hum. I turned the volume up to max without any music playing and it was silent. My sensitive Klipsch will tell me if it is a silent amp or not.
Great feeling and success.
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
It's still on the breadboard; I connected my ipod shuffle, connected the output of the Aikido to a pair of active computer speakers and I had great sound emanating from the speakers.
So far I couldn't hear any hum. I turned the volume up to max without any music playing and it was silent. My sensitive Klipsch will tell me if it is a silent amp or not.
Great feeling and success.
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
Me too... first of all I'm not an electronic expert, from the other side Mr. Broskie deserves for his great work beside the public compliments some business too 😉 Please, don't get me wrong...ollebolle said:
Ollebolle, thank you to push this thread and me too - both at the same time 😉
Cheers,
Now I'm trying it with the Russian PIO NOS coupling caps.
Very nice indeed.
Can't wait to get it hooked up to my system.
Have to plan the chassis now.
Very nice indeed.
Can't wait to get it hooked up to my system.
Have to plan the chassis now.
Olle,
Or anyone else with experience in building preamp with gain.
What are the benefits of placing the attenuation before or after the Aikido? ie; input or output side?
Why?
Using the 6sn7s I get a mu / db gain pf of ~20. So it is classified as a gain stage. I have a 100K attenuator I want to use. I'm looking for where to install it......I'm leaning on the output side....?
Ron
Or anyone else with experience in building preamp with gain.
What are the benefits of placing the attenuation before or after the Aikido? ie; input or output side?
Why?
Using the 6sn7s I get a mu / db gain pf of ~20. So it is classified as a gain stage. I have a 100K attenuator I want to use. I'm looking for where to install it......I'm leaning on the output side....?
Ron
I don't exactly know the answer, so I will have to guess 🙂
I have seen tube preamplifiers with built in riaa-stages, and of course the potentiometer is placed between the riaa circuit and the preamp circuit.
Most preamplifiers I have seen have though, have the potentiometer first, so does the Aikido. At least the schematics I have seen.
Personally I don't think it would be such a good idea to place a attenuator/potentiometer at the output!
A normally connected potentiometer will act as a voltage divider. With the potentiometer at the output and at low volume there will be high attenuation.
If you use a 100K pot. there would be let's say 90kohms in series with the output!
If you change the volume you change the series resistance. Not good...
This wouldn't be such a good output stage!
The output impedance would be way to high, and it would depend on the volume control
I have seen special types of attenuators keeping the same source resistance at all voulumes.
There might be some kind of special solution... I think they are expencive though...
ps.
Where are all the tube-dudes? There are lots of experienced tube-guys on this site, but it seems they are not writing in this thread!
I'm sure they have correct answers!
pps. Maybe i got your question wrong. English is not my native language, but I'm learning 🙂
ppps.
It would be great if someone more experienced tube-guy would correct me if this post is totallt wrong 🙂
I have seen tube preamplifiers with built in riaa-stages, and of course the potentiometer is placed between the riaa circuit and the preamp circuit.
Most preamplifiers I have seen have though, have the potentiometer first, so does the Aikido. At least the schematics I have seen.
Personally I don't think it would be such a good idea to place a attenuator/potentiometer at the output!
A normally connected potentiometer will act as a voltage divider. With the potentiometer at the output and at low volume there will be high attenuation.
If you use a 100K pot. there would be let's say 90kohms in series with the output!
If you change the volume you change the series resistance. Not good...
This wouldn't be such a good output stage!
The output impedance would be way to high, and it would depend on the volume control
I have seen special types of attenuators keeping the same source resistance at all voulumes.
There might be some kind of special solution... I think they are expencive though...
ps.
Where are all the tube-dudes? There are lots of experienced tube-guys on this site, but it seems they are not writing in this thread!
I'm sure they have correct answers!
pps. Maybe i got your question wrong. English is not my native language, but I'm learning 🙂
ppps.
It would be great if someone more experienced tube-guy would correct me if this post is totallt wrong 🙂
Thanks Olle,
Very good explanation, it makes sense now. Volume control in the front it will be.
My thinking was if the preamp was not totally silent it would still have tube noise, even with no input Voltage at all. Attenuation at the output would eliminate that possibility.
I didn't think of series resistance........good point.
Your English is excellent, much better than some of the people who are inside our boarders now.....I wish we would actually control our boarders, but that is a different topic.
When I was in Europe I tried to speak French and not English, worked OK in France and Italy but not so good in Deutchland. 😉
Would never even try Swedish!
Thanks,
Ron
Very good explanation, it makes sense now. Volume control in the front it will be.
My thinking was if the preamp was not totally silent it would still have tube noise, even with no input Voltage at all. Attenuation at the output would eliminate that possibility.
I didn't think of series resistance........good point.
Your English is excellent, much better than some of the people who are inside our boarders now.....I wish we would actually control our boarders, but that is a different topic.
When I was in Europe I tried to speak French and not English, worked OK in France and Italy but not so good in Deutchland. 😉
Would never even try Swedish!
Thanks,
Ron
pot always goes before the gain stage - so yes, wire from the input RCAs to the pot first and then on to the aikido boards. I used an LDR type volume control and it works very nicely indeed - to my mind better than the stepped pot I had in there before hand and input impedance (on mine at least) is a reasonable 27k.
Greg at ska-audio.com sells 'em for smallish money and if you want to go to the bother, you can builder a fancier version if you follow the ligthspeed attenuator thread over in SS forum. Beats the likes of a blue velvet into a pulp.
Good to see that you have them up and running, well done ollebolle & brit01. Aikido is a very good preamp.
Fran
Greg at ska-audio.com sells 'em for smallish money and if you want to go to the bother, you can builder a fancier version if you follow the ligthspeed attenuator thread over in SS forum. Beats the likes of a blue velvet into a pulp.
Good to see that you have them up and running, well done ollebolle & brit01. Aikido is a very good preamp.
Fran
Would the Aikido line stage be compatable with a dantimax control board controlling an alps motorpot?
Hi raypalmer,raypalmer said:
Dantimax Remote1 kit (with 100 kohm pot) is also my choice for my Aikido. I see no hindrance to do so... but I'm not an expert.
An expert judgment is therefore welcome!
Thanks!
Cheers,
I'm sure it will work great! Choose correct values, and check if the pot is log or lin before you buy!
Could someone tell me whether I want a logarithmic or linear pot? And at what value?
And why?
All these pots and potentiometers confuse me to no end.😕
And why?
All these pots and potentiometers confuse me to no end.😕
It depends on the application!
The aikido uses a logarithmic pot! A linear pot will work, but I don't recommend it in the Aikido case!
If a linear pot is used the volume will be very sensitive at first, so a small change at the volume control will cause a very high change in listening volume!
After that sensitive part it wont happen that much when increasing more...
With a logarithmic pot the volume will act just as a normal volume control does!
But there are ways to make a linear pot "act" a little logarithmic 🙂
The aikido uses a logarithmic pot! A linear pot will work, but I don't recommend it in the Aikido case!
If a linear pot is used the volume will be very sensitive at first, so a small change at the volume control will cause a very high change in listening volume!
After that sensitive part it wont happen that much when increasing more...
With a logarithmic pot the volume will act just as a normal volume control does!
But there are ways to make a linear pot "act" a little logarithmic 🙂
Hi all
I have made up an Aikido (9 pin mono boards) about a year ago. Fine sounding piece of kit. I got most of my parts, apart from the PCBs, from www.diyclub.biz (A03case, VO3 remote control kit, TP4 rectifier regulator board) - previously I had an LS32 Liteaudio preamp kit in there. As described elsewhere the sound is modern world tube, linear, well controlled and very musical. I run a DIY Millenium power amp downstream, custom DIY AD1896 DAC upstream and all my music comes from a Mac running Itunes and Apple Lossles files.
Anyway a couple of questions I wanted to get feedback on:
I am interested in perspectives on people who have tried different tube combinations (around total gain 10) - what's sounded best?
Previously I've tried 12AU7s with 6H30s but now just got some 6n23p-ev (6DJ8 equiv) from Russia and these appear to be fine sounding in the output stage (around 160V B+). I like 5963 Blackplate RCAs in the input side also.
I am also interested in making up a valve regulator circuit for the HT - would be interested in your ideas (I would like to keep solid state rectification however).
I have made up an Aikido (9 pin mono boards) about a year ago. Fine sounding piece of kit. I got most of my parts, apart from the PCBs, from www.diyclub.biz (A03case, VO3 remote control kit, TP4 rectifier regulator board) - previously I had an LS32 Liteaudio preamp kit in there. As described elsewhere the sound is modern world tube, linear, well controlled and very musical. I run a DIY Millenium power amp downstream, custom DIY AD1896 DAC upstream and all my music comes from a Mac running Itunes and Apple Lossles files.
Anyway a couple of questions I wanted to get feedback on:
I am interested in perspectives on people who have tried different tube combinations (around total gain 10) - what's sounded best?
Previously I've tried 12AU7s with 6H30s but now just got some 6n23p-ev (6DJ8 equiv) from Russia and these appear to be fine sounding in the output stage (around 160V B+). I like 5963 Blackplate RCAs in the input side also.
I am also interested in making up a valve regulator circuit for the HT - would be interested in your ideas (I would like to keep solid state rectification however).
raypalmer said:
I'm using Dantimaxs kits on my Aikido build. Have already built a remote input selector to my SS amp and now am building a remote volume control with digital readout.
So ask Mikkel and he will tell you what you need.....just be patient, he's kind of slow to respond. But he always does.
My turn to ask a question,
How do I find out what the input impeadance in for an all 6sn7 Preamp?
Thanks,
Ron
By the way, inserting an adjustable R15 - I'm assuming a 0.5W pot is enough? What have people been doing - typically the values are in the 70-100k range - are people fitting a 50k resistor then a 50k 10 turn pot in series. Please advise.