HiFiDuino mod completed
Then the DIY setup has been modified with HiFiDuino and Monoblocks.
I´m not waiting for the red dot design award. But its working.
Next step is to test with a Apple TV remote, that I dont have yet, but on its way from ebay.
Resistors on AD797 has been replaced with 1,2K(the 680ohms) and makes a good match with B&O ASP1000. Just pushing +/-10V on the output.
Thanks ALOT for the almost plug and play program at HiFiDuino 🙂 🙂
Works like a charm. Added 4K7 on I2C bus, and go...... replaced the rotational button with buttons while waiting for that one as well, which allows some testing. A perfect match to go even further with the DIYINHK board.
And I think I need a proper cabinet, to make this look good, but thats another day ;-)
Then the DIY setup has been modified with HiFiDuino and Monoblocks.
I´m not waiting for the red dot design award. But its working.
Next step is to test with a Apple TV remote, that I dont have yet, but on its way from ebay.
Resistors on AD797 has been replaced with 1,2K(the 680ohms) and makes a good match with B&O ASP1000. Just pushing +/-10V on the output.
Thanks ALOT for the almost plug and play program at HiFiDuino 🙂 🙂
Works like a charm. Added 4K7 on I2C bus, and go...... replaced the rotational button with buttons while waiting for that one as well, which allows some testing. A perfect match to go even further with the DIYINHK board.
And I think I need a proper cabinet, to make this look good, but thats another day ;-)
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Very nice. The Apple remote will get you a "red-dot award feel" 🙂
Your amps can take +/-10V?
Your amps can take +/-10V?
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http://www.icepower.bang-olufsen.com/files/solutions/icepower1000aspdata.pdf
Page 5 of 29, states that these handles a maximum rating of +/- 12,8V. Which equals 25,6V p-p.
And there is also some +/- 12V outputs who I may use to remove some other PSU´s........
Thanks for dropping by GLT. I noticed an issue with the HiFiDuino / ES9018 setup. If I choose SPDIF Input, when the only live input is I2S. I do get some serious dc switching signals out of the ES9018...... Which I guess would blow quite some units far away, if connected... Therefore I limited the input choices to 1. Might be something with my wiring, but I havent done any further investigation.
Is is "DC"? or just loud noise? I can't say that I've seen switching noise before, but I will check it out. However, my hypex amps have DC blocking on the inputs.
Checked it on scope, and looked like a digital signal on the dacs output. with high Vp-p, 10V +. For now ive left the system running with the speakers, just to se if anything is stable. And to get some hours on the clock.
When I bring it back up to my workshop ill check the details with this one. It was not a pure clock signal, but might have been the databus on I2S amplified.
For some reason.
I just checked my current setup (with quanghao's DAC). Switching from live I2S to spdif 3,7 or 8 (no signal in spdif) has no noise...
I think I know the noise you mean, I dont have this dac... but a couple of times early on with a prototype fifo board running sync mode, something (large ripple) on the power rails (pretty sure it was the fridge starting up) probably got in through the i2c connection USB adapter for the MCU, knocked the fifo off lock and I got the craziest fullscale digital code/hash that remained until the dac was reset. sounded a bit like some of you may have experienced when a digital television gets knocked off signal and puts out a grinding abhorrent digital noise. Its like its playing data; crazy transient low duty cycle digital square-wave.
never got it on the scope, havent had it since, but scary as hell, glad I didnt have it hooked up to the main system. I could see it blowing speakers because its fullscale, regardless of your volume setting and as you dont have a pre and I guess are using digital volume control, you would be in the same scary boat. I guess its a side effect of actually having the digital filter and a DSP embedded in the dac chip. its like a situation where it should mute the dac, but doesnt for some reason. its like its an internal MCU failure mode
never got it on the scope, havent had it since, but scary as hell, glad I didnt have it hooked up to the main system. I could see it blowing speakers because its fullscale, regardless of your volume setting and as you dont have a pre and I guess are using digital volume control, you would be in the same scary boat. I guess its a side effect of actually having the digital filter and a DSP embedded in the dac chip. its like a situation where it should mute the dac, but doesnt for some reason. its like its an internal MCU failure mode
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NOISE :
not tested, but I guess it may have been the reason. On DIYINHK board, data 2-3-4-5 is connected to each other. And therefore data on the I2S bus is connected to all of them. And when changing to SPDIF input, on HIFIDUINO setup, connected to the DIYINHK, the digital signal somehow just passed through the DAC.....
Some updates has been made to the system, and is now a complete unit with USB input, 230VAC input, and speaker output. Integrated with display and remote.
New problems has arrived. BANG and BOOOOOM when not powering in the correct order.
To make this system a little more user-friendly. I plan to make to relays control the mute on the power amps. Both these realys switches in paralell, to make sure that gnd is passed on to AMP-Mute in 2 situations.
Situation 1 if there is no power, as for when some units looses power, but amps still on.
Situation 2 to keep mute on the power amp, for a few seconds, while other units returns from standby or power failure.
This will be done throgh modifying hifiduino program. And hopefully mutes at any unwanted situation ;-)
not tested, but I guess it may have been the reason. On DIYINHK board, data 2-3-4-5 is connected to each other. And therefore data on the I2S bus is connected to all of them. And when changing to SPDIF input, on HIFIDUINO setup, connected to the DIYINHK, the digital signal somehow just passed through the DAC.....
Some updates has been made to the system, and is now a complete unit with USB input, 230VAC input, and speaker output. Integrated with display and remote.
New problems has arrived. BANG and BOOOOOM when not powering in the correct order.
To make this system a little more user-friendly. I plan to make to relays control the mute on the power amps. Both these realys switches in paralell, to make sure that gnd is passed on to AMP-Mute in 2 situations.
Situation 1 if there is no power, as for when some units looses power, but amps still on.
Situation 2 to keep mute on the power amp, for a few seconds, while other units returns from standby or power failure.
This will be done throgh modifying hifiduino program. And hopefully mutes at any unwanted situation ;-)
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Ground trouble for me too....
Any shortcuts of fixing ucontroller issues or dac issues ?
Except from separating the hole sytem away from the electrical nets ground ?
Even if USB is separated with optocoupler IL715 f.ex. Power amps is still grounded, which grounds the audio path, which grounds the rest.......
Maybe use galvanic shield between DAC and Power-Amp, like small audio trafos supposed for small signal. Is that even a solution ?
Any shortcuts of fixing ucontroller issues or dac issues ?
Except from separating the hole sytem away from the electrical nets ground ?
Even if USB is separated with optocoupler IL715 f.ex. Power amps is still grounded, which grounds the audio path, which grounds the rest.......
Maybe use galvanic shield between DAC and Power-Amp, like small audio trafos supposed for small signal. Is that even a solution ?
Set the spdif input to #6, 7, or 8
The way the code is set up, it mutes the dacs as quick as possible. If your controller boots faster than the DAC, then you miss setting the volume levels and it will start at full volume. If your DAC boots faster than the controller, then everything is fine unless you have a signal at the inputs, and you will hear full volume for a split second.
It seems different Arduinos boot up at different speed.
If the Arduino boots faster, then you need to put delays in the code...
I tested yesterday by doing the thing im not supposed to do! turn of the dac before the power amps. And that didnt threat the speakers well!!!!! So i think a link between the amps and the controller, as well as a relay that mutes if input voltage disappears is a good idea. Thanks a lot GLT, The code is a incredibly good start to modify to a suited setup.
Finally the components arrived from RSonline (after some issues from my part). And all components has been replaced with proper smd cog capacitors(100pF/470pF/100nF), 0,1% resistors, 1.68Kohm feedback resistors, Xpresso 100Mhz crystal, Elna and Rubycon capacitors(1/10/470 uF).
Just played for about 2 hours, at quiet level, due to night time, and neighbours. But I enjoyed Roger Waters and amused to death.
Im looking forward to more testing tomorrow. Or monday if trouble.......
These feedback resistors gives approx 8-9V peak-peak output.
Modifications :
1-- 5V input to DIYINHK board, supplies LM1117-3,3V regulator. LM1117 feeds 3,3V digital part. An AD797 supplies the analog part with 3,3V. 1,2V is all from the same ADP151 supply, feeded through the digital 3,3V.
2-- Balanced output only, to simplify design and less components.
3-- I2S bus connected directly to Musiland USB 2 I2S board, no level problems.
4-- I2C Control from HifiDuino`s sweet program CODE | H i F i D U I N O, done via a Arduino mega 2560
5-- IR control via apple remote via Arduino (HifiDuino)
6-- Volume control via Arduino (HifiDuino)
7-- AC/AC adapter (2*12V +5V) some old LCAudio supply
8-- AC/DC adapter, some regular kit that came with another cs8416/CS4397
DAC kit.
9-- Modified Musiland 01US 2012 to feed the ES9018 with I2S audio...
If any question or anything, just ask. And I`ll try to be helpful.
I think I like this last setup the best, but I cant explain from anything else then gut-feeling. And Happy DIY satisfaction that it just works and is getting pretty flexible....
Wireless 192Khz 32bit link, any suggestions ???
Seems hard to find online.
Just played for about 2 hours, at quiet level, due to night time, and neighbours. But I enjoyed Roger Waters and amused to death.
Im looking forward to more testing tomorrow. Or monday if trouble.......
These feedback resistors gives approx 8-9V peak-peak output.
Modifications :
1-- 5V input to DIYINHK board, supplies LM1117-3,3V regulator. LM1117 feeds 3,3V digital part. An AD797 supplies the analog part with 3,3V. 1,2V is all from the same ADP151 supply, feeded through the digital 3,3V.
2-- Balanced output only, to simplify design and less components.
3-- I2S bus connected directly to Musiland USB 2 I2S board, no level problems.
4-- I2C Control from HifiDuino`s sweet program CODE | H i F i D U I N O, done via a Arduino mega 2560
5-- IR control via apple remote via Arduino (HifiDuino)
6-- Volume control via Arduino (HifiDuino)
7-- AC/AC adapter (2*12V +5V) some old LCAudio supply
8-- AC/DC adapter, some regular kit that came with another cs8416/CS4397
DAC kit.
9-- Modified Musiland 01US 2012 to feed the ES9018 with I2S audio...
If any question or anything, just ask. And I`ll try to be helpful.
I think I like this last setup the best, but I cant explain from anything else then gut-feeling. And Happy DIY satisfaction that it just works and is getting pretty flexible....
Wireless 192Khz 32bit link, any suggestions ???
Seems hard to find online.
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