here are the pics:
Fran
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Fran
woodturner-fran said:OK,
I just connected it to my squeezebox and its fine there. I've put switch 3 to low, the rest are at 0 ie in the middle. SPDIF in is connected to SPDIF and G on the DAC input (centre pin of RCA to SPDIF, ground ring to G). SPDIF switch is set towards "on".
Fran
Switch 1 (of the 4) needs to be HIGH.
Spartacus said:
Switch 1 (of the 4) needs to be HIGH.
Its pulled high by default so it should be OK left open. 🙂
Thanks guys - so just to confirm positions 1, 2, 4 are at 0 and 3 is low?
To be fair to it, it tries to lock on to the PC output - the automute LED stays off and the DAC repeatedly puts out a snippet of music every couple of seconds. Its like the signal isn't strong enough for it to latch on to it. It would be nice to have it working at the PC as well, so if anyone has any suggestions, let me know.
Now I need to put it through some paces and see how it performs. I'm having a few buddies over on Wed night so that should be a good test for it.
Fran
To be fair to it, it tries to lock on to the PC output - the automute LED stays off and the DAC repeatedly puts out a snippet of music every couple of seconds. Its like the signal isn't strong enough for it to latch on to it. It would be nice to have it working at the PC as well, so if anyone has any suggestions, let me know.
Now I need to put it through some paces and see how it performs. I'm having a few buddies over on Wed night so that should be a good test for it.
Fran
HI Fran,
My guess is the SPDIF from your USB card is (1)possibly too hot, and (2) not AC coupled.
The first is easily solved with a voltage divider(try a 221-270R resistor in series with the SPDIF signal right at the buffalo input for a test) or by doing as Spartacus suggested and connecting the SPDIF signal to the D1 terminal and opening the "SPDIF" switch (much easier).
The Second can be fixed with a cap and/or a transformer. The cap could be something like 100nf to be safe.
If you use the D1 input be sure to add the 10-100nf cap.
As for the switches. All of them default high(+) due to internal pull ups. So your configuration is just fine.
Cheers!
Russ
My guess is the SPDIF from your USB card is (1)possibly too hot, and (2) not AC coupled.
The first is easily solved with a voltage divider(try a 221-270R resistor in series with the SPDIF signal right at the buffalo input for a test) or by doing as Spartacus suggested and connecting the SPDIF signal to the D1 terminal and opening the "SPDIF" switch (much easier).
The Second can be fixed with a cap and/or a transformer. The cap could be something like 100nf to be safe.
If you use the D1 input be sure to add the 10-100nf cap.
As for the switches. All of them default high(+) due to internal pull ups. So your configuration is just fine.
Cheers!
Russ
woodturner-fran said:If I move the SPDIF input to D1 will it still work OK with other sources do you think?
Fran
No, not if they are not TTL level. That's what the comparator does, it acts as a level shifter from SPDIF levels (.5V) to TTL.
What I would do in your situation is add a voltage divider to the SPDIF output of your USB device to bring it to normal SPDIF levels. This should be fairly simple to try.
Cheers!
Russ
Re: Re: Re: Dustin on the radio through Sabre, of course
Something about a magnificent sonic performance has the same effect on me also. Rebecca Pidgeon's version of Spanish Harlem (Chesky Records) through the Sabre chip was one of those moments. Months later I can still recall the sound.
RossG
rossl said:
Have you guys noticed something. I don't know if it's just me, but... when I listen to a good recording on my system with the Sabre8 DAC, then go away to do something, the good recording will stick in my brain and play over and over in my mind. The badly recorded material I just forget about and it doesn't stick in my brain.
Am I going crazy or what? The good recordings just stick in my head because they sound so real. 😀
Ross L.
Something about a magnificent sonic performance has the same effect on me also. Rebecca Pidgeon's version of Spanish Harlem (Chesky Records) through the Sabre chip was one of those moments. Months later I can still recall the sound.
RossG
OK,
I followed your advice and tried both 220R and 560R in series with the SPDIF input. The signal locked on better (and stayed on) but the distortion was still there in the background.
Fran
I followed your advice and tried both 220R and 560R in series with the SPDIF input. The signal locked on better (and stayed on) but the distortion was still there in the background.
Fran
woodturner-fran said:OK,
I followed your advice and tried both 220R and 560R in series with the SPDIF input. The signal locked on better (and stayed on) but the distortion was still there in the background.
Fran
Have you had success with that SPDIF source in the past? You might try setting switch #4 low. This will use a higher DPLL bandwidth.
Yes, I've used it with a Monica NOS DAC, Zhaolu 2.5C DAC and also a fostex DAT D-20B machine rigged for use as a DAC. All work AOK with it. The USB to SPDIF converter is one of the simple ones that you see on ebay - called PClink. In fact now that I think about it I think I bought it from the fella I bought the Zhaolu from.
I'll try setting the No. 4 switch to low and see what happens. It plays perfectly from my CDP and the squeezebox. In both cases the lock LED stays on even when something isn't actually playing.
Fran
I'll try setting the No. 4 switch to low and see what happens. It plays perfectly from my CDP and the squeezebox. In both cases the lock LED stays on even when something isn't actually playing.
Fran
woodturner-fran said:here are the pics:
Maybe it is just because I haven't got a good view from the photos....... but something seems funny about your IVY.
It seems like you have omitted C13-C16 as per the IVY manual configs for Buffalo 1, COD and Opus. But it also seems like you have filled R5-R8 as per the configs for Buffalo 2 and Opus.
Am I missing something here 😕
*
Also, while I'm here and Russ is answering questions...... from the IVY manual, which of the two Buffalo configs do you recommend? I hate desoldering, so would prefer to build the 'right' one on first pass.
I also note that both of the new configs are different from what you initially described in the changes to IVY here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1524769#post1524769 .......?
Lastly, the new relay on IVY. What is it doing, exactly? It seems to be directing SE to GND when no power is available, by I'm not sure why it would need to do this......
Cheers! Now get back to your holiday! 🙂
Beefy said:
1) Also, while I'm here and Russ is answering questions...... from the IVY manual, which of the two Buffalo configs do you recommend? I hate desoldering, so would prefer to build the 'right' one on first pass.
2)I also note that both of the new configs are different from what you initially described in the changes to IVY here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1524769#post1524769 .......?
3)Lastly, the new relay on IVY. What is it doing, exactly? It seems to be directing SE to GND when no power is available, by I'm not sure why it would need to do this......
Cheers! Now get back to your holiday! 🙂
1) Buffalo1 is my choice. 🙂 It both measures and sounds best to me.
2) Yes things have matured a bit since then. Just natural progression. 🙂
3) It simply shunts the output of the bal/SE stage to GND because otherwise you might get a nasty transient as the opamps run out of steam. The relay simply averts any turn off thump. We added it after we noticed that the turn off could produce a nasty thump without it. This is because everything is DC coupled.
Cheers!
Russ
Beefy said:
Maybe it is just because I haven't got a good view from the photos....... but something seems funny about your IVY.
It seems like you have omitted C13-C16 as per the IVY manual configs for Buffalo 1, COD and Opus. But it also seems like you have filled R5-R8 as per the configs for Buffalo 2 and Opus.
Am I missing something here 😕
Cheers! Now get back to your holiday! 🙂
Fran has it correct (It looks to me) R5-R8 are jumpers. He is doing the Buffalo1 configuration.
The Caps he omitted are only to be used for the Bufallo2 configuration.
Still its a very good question!
Cheers!
Russ
Fran has it correct (It looks to me) R5-R8 are jumpers. He is doing the Buffalo1 configuration.
The Caps he omitted are only to be used for the Bufallo2 configuration.
Oh right, they must be zero ohm 'resistors' that I am seeing then in R5-R8. I've never actually seen them in use before - I've only ever personally seen/used cut component legs 😱
Thanks for the clarification! 🙂
woodturner-fran said:Yes, I've used it with a Monica NOS DAC, Zhaolu 2.5C DAC and also a fostex DAT D-20B machine rigged for use as a DAC. All work AOK with it. The USB to SPDIF converter is one of the simple ones that you see on ebay - called PClink. In fact now that I think about it I think I bought it from the fella I bought the Zhaolu from.
I'll try setting the No. 4 switch to low and see what happens. It plays perfectly from my CDP and the squeezebox. In both cases the lock LED stays on even when something isn't actually playing.
Fran
If your pclink is the same tested here http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1360&hilit=uda1321
maybe the problem is too much jitter and one possible solution is higher DPLL bandwidth, but i'am not an expert i'am only posting this in the hope it could be of help.
Ciao
Andrea
That certainly sounds like the same unit I have - although I haven't taken it apart to have a look inside.
I will try the dip switch no. 4 set to low - but somehow I think all my worries could go away if I bought the USB module from TP!
Thanks for the help....
Fran
I will try the dip switch no. 4 set to low - but somehow I think all my worries could go away if I bought the USB module from TP!
Thanks for the help....
Fran
Rboer I/V stage
Goto,
I was also going to try the Broertjes I/V stage, when I finish building my Buffalo Dac. Have you had any success?
thanks
JimS
Goto,
I was also going to try the Broertjes I/V stage, when I finish building my Buffalo Dac. Have you had any success?
thanks
JimS
from the IVY manual, which of the two Buffalo configs do you recommend?
Buffalo 1 is the configuration included in the kit.
Re: Rboer I/V stage
Hi Jim
I need to figure out what needs modifying from the standard (published/DIYparadise kit) version of the circuit to make it work properly with the Sabre. I am assured that it is fairly easy to do. If anyone has any ideas, I'd be glad to try them out.
Meanwhilie my Buffalo is rigged with Evox Rifa 10uf caps between the outputs and the inputs to a BALLSIE to give me single-ended for my preamp. Far from ideal, but still very good.
Mark
jims said:Goto,
I was also going to try the Broertjes I/V stage, when I finish building my Buffalo Dac. Have you had any success?
thanks
JimS
Hi Jim
I need to figure out what needs modifying from the standard (published/DIYparadise kit) version of the circuit to make it work properly with the Sabre. I am assured that it is fairly easy to do. If anyone has any ideas, I'd be glad to try them out.
Meanwhilie my Buffalo is rigged with Evox Rifa 10uf caps between the outputs and the inputs to a BALLSIE to give me single-ended for my preamp. Far from ideal, but still very good.
Mark
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