Hi Allen. The Mars socket - inside - has two terminals - one of which is connected to the + terminal of the speaker binding post, and the other is connected - to the -ve terminal of the speaker binding post. Additionally - the +ve wire is in two pieces, one end to the +ve speaker binding post and the other seems to be going UP into the speaker cabinet to the tweeter or woofer. Can't decipher without pulling apart the speakers.
Hi - You're RIGHT.
DC resistance of both the tweeters is reading normal in normal range.
DC resistance of both tweeters has been measured today, 11 Nov 2023 – both the tweeters are reading normal range – like 5Ohms from the non-faulty tweeter and 4.5 from the supposedly faulty one. Thus the supposedly faulty tweeter is not faulty at all.
Hi man! Thanks a lot for your help BTW - really insightful comments.
This is what I got as the schematic of the crossover - totally agree with your comments above.
On the subject of the MARS socket, this is the M.A.R.S tomfoolery from outside, the socket.
This is what it looks like from inside :
As you can see one of the + terminals [that connects from the amplifier to the speaker] is also connected to the + terminal of the Mars tomfoolery
And then the positive RED and the negative BLACK of the MARS cables are going up into the chassis of the speakers
as in here
Thanks for your help sir! cheers,
This is what I got as the schematic of the crossover - totally agree with your comments above.
On the subject of the MARS socket, this is the M.A.R.S tomfoolery from outside, the socket.
This is what it looks like from inside :
As you can see one of the + terminals [that connects from the amplifier to the speaker] is also connected to the + terminal of the Mars tomfoolery
And then the positive RED and the negative BLACK of the MARS cables are going up into the chassis of the speakers
as in here
Thanks for your help sir! cheers,
"
Interesting topology, but nothing magical.
I seem to recall you had an issue with treble response. Here are my thoughts.
The treble branch relies on the caps across the woofer to complete the circuit. But, those caps if they fail wouldn't make an obvious difference in the woofer - you'd get highs going to a speaker that reproduces them poorly.
So I'd take a hard look at those caps, all of them. Since all 4 are part of the treble circuit path.
The bulb, btw is on the entire network and simply acts as a bit of a compressor - mostly a bit of protection at high volumes.
Usually when this trick is employed, its on just the treble driver, but it is an Irving Fried design.
"
Interesting topology, but nothing magical.
I seem to recall you had an issue with treble response. Here are my thoughts.
The treble branch relies on the caps across the woofer to complete the circuit. But, those caps if they fail wouldn't make an obvious difference in the woofer - you'd get highs going to a speaker that reproduces them poorly.
So I'd take a hard look at those caps, all of them. Since all 4 are part of the treble circuit path.
The bulb, btw is on the entire network and simply acts as a bit of a compressor - mostly a bit of protection at high volumes.
Usually when this trick is employed, its on just the treble driver, but it is an Irving Fried design.
"
A better drawing. 1st order LP, 2nd order highPass with an LPad.
I’d lose the bulb.
dave
Thank you for your kindness in responding Dave, Allen.
I spoke with David Ellis from the Midwest, US - he has been a Fried as well as Hiquphon dealer for a long time - his diagnosis was that
"the tweeter tends to get cooked"...given that observation, do you think losing the Bulb would be prudent?
http://www.ellisaudio.com/
I spoke with David Ellis from the Midwest, US - he has been a Fried as well as Hiquphon dealer for a long time - his diagnosis was that
"the tweeter tends to get cooked"...given that observation, do you think losing the Bulb would be prudent?
http://www.ellisaudio.com/
Thank you Dave for your kindness & support. I have received a pair of fresh Hiq tweeters from eBay that I am going to switch the existing tweeters with.
Then I was planning on replacing the 27 year old capacitors
Last, I was considering what you mentioned...losing the bulb, i.e shorting it out. However, just wanted to know WHY you suggested that?
Because I was thinking that the designer would have put it there given that series crossover's put a bunch of stress on the tweeters. [YES, the bulb is on the ENTIRE circuit though]...just wanted to know why it was suggested to short the bulb.
Sincerely,
RWn
They add compression and don’t sound good.
A “safety” feature for those that are not disciplined in proper use of the volume control.
dave
I'd begin shorting with crocodile clip leads, since changes are easily reversed. If the sound changes too much, measure the cold resistance of the bulb and insert resistance in it's place. If you like that but don't want the resistance, the crossover might be modified to suit.