With ref to this repair:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ver-and-m-a-r-s-system-mystery-repair.405114/
I may likely have to replace the tweeter .
Should I just try and change the series Crossover to Parallel while I'm at it ...since a series Crossover tends to cook the tweeter?
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ver-and-m-a-r-s-system-mystery-repair.405114/
I may likely have to replace the tweeter .
Should I just try and change the series Crossover to Parallel while I'm at it ...since a series Crossover tends to cook the tweeter?
I'd try an automotive 12V light bulb in series with the tweeter for protection first. I've read here where series crossovers have a "sound" and you may not want to lose that in your speakers design.
rwnano, is there a reason you suggest this? Surely converting a crossover revolves around providing the same tweeter drive..
Never had a tweeter cook with a series xo and I've done heaps. You could try soldering a link across the fuse/bulb.
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There's if you see the aforementioned thread, on the flipside of the Crossover PCB, a little elongated plastic bulb there. Havent yet checked if its fused.
As above in the link - just that the dealer - David Ellis - EllisAudio in the US - was mentioning to me that he's seen heaps of the tweeters getting cooked - and I'm guessing since usually tweeters don't get cooked, its because of the Series Xover
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Maybe it's the tweeters themselves, or how they are being used. Maybe it's the filter slope and frequency used. Were the bulbs were put there for a reason, or just as a precaution?
Sure, but let me rephrase part of what I said.. Maybe they put the bulbs in because they noticed the tweeters blowing from the start.
There was a time when low slope crossovers were in fashion, and even still in the diy world, sometimes for different reasons. It's a choice and it comes with precautions.
Something to consider if you ever decide to redesign the crossover.
There was a time when low slope crossovers were in fashion, and even still in the diy world, sometimes for different reasons. It's a choice and it comes with precautions.
Something to consider if you ever decide to redesign the crossover.
My eyes are not great but it looks like a open circuit in the fuse. Add a wire link for a closed circuit.
on another forum, SOMEONE Commented THUS on the circuit topology:
"
Interesting topology, but nothing magical.
I seem to recall you had an issue with treble response. Here are my thoughts.
The treble branch relies on the caps across the woofer to complete the circuit. But, those caps if they fail wouldn't make an obvious difference in the woofer - you'd get highs going to a speaker that reproduces them poorly.
So I'd take a hard look at those caps, all of them. Since all 4 are part of the treble circuit path.
The bulb {Fuse}, btw is on the entire network and simply acts as a bit of a compressor - mostly a bit of protection at high volumes.
Usually when this trick is employed, its on just the treble driver, but it is an Irving Fried design."
"
Interesting topology, but nothing magical.
I seem to recall you had an issue with treble response. Here are my thoughts.
The treble branch relies on the caps across the woofer to complete the circuit. But, those caps if they fail wouldn't make an obvious difference in the woofer - you'd get highs going to a speaker that reproduces them poorly.
So I'd take a hard look at those caps, all of them. Since all 4 are part of the treble circuit path.
The bulb {Fuse}, btw is on the entire network and simply acts as a bit of a compressor - mostly a bit of protection at high volumes.
Usually when this trick is employed, its on just the treble driver, but it is an Irving Fried design."
Allen - is the Bulb on the ENTIRE circuit - Tweeter & Woofer both - do see the above circuit schema..