Hi
Attached photo is the crossover in a Buchardt s300.
I am in no way experienced with crossovers, but it seems pretty wild since it is only a 2-way (crossover point 2600Hz).
However that may not be enough to keep me from trying something on it. A blind hen can also find corn.
So: is it not fair to assume that the 3 sand cast resistors are connected in series? I can find the same sum of values with 2 resistors in the Jantzen superres series, so that might be a start.
Of course I would need to get it out of my own speaker, and I can then verify on the bottom of the board, it would just be nice to hear any comments beforehand ;-)
I believe they've built in some kind of phase correction, which might explain the complexity. I also know they have a signature edition of their s400 model, where the topology to me looks similar, where they have used superres resistors, superior z caps for the tweeter and cross caps for the woofer. And silver wiring.
Thanks a lot for suggestions/input
Attached photo is the crossover in a Buchardt s300.
I am in no way experienced with crossovers, but it seems pretty wild since it is only a 2-way (crossover point 2600Hz).
However that may not be enough to keep me from trying something on it. A blind hen can also find corn.
So: is it not fair to assume that the 3 sand cast resistors are connected in series? I can find the same sum of values with 2 resistors in the Jantzen superres series, so that might be a start.
Of course I would need to get it out of my own speaker, and I can then verify on the bottom of the board, it would just be nice to hear any comments beforehand ;-)
I believe they've built in some kind of phase correction, which might explain the complexity. I also know they have a signature edition of their s400 model, where the topology to me looks similar, where they have used superres resistors, superior z caps for the tweeter and cross caps for the woofer. And silver wiring.
Thanks a lot for suggestions/input
Attachments
The board is already populated with high quality components.
My opinion is that you're likely to do more harm than good by changing components without having good justification
My opinion is that you're likely to do more harm than good by changing components without having good justification
I would not. Rather, I'd draw the schematic.
Is it fair to assume you don't intend to measure and adjust values, but rather to swap parts. They already seem to be good choices.
The section with the pairs of 18µF and .39mH seems to be the allpass network (for the phase correction). But I also don't think you will do any better than with this setup. And since those Buchardt speakers seem well designed to me, I'd hesitate to even change a mounting screw.
There still seems to be popular tweak to swap crossover parts as for trendy high end parts, why is that? I bet very few will hear a difference in a blind listening test, like the sand cast resistors, they might have a higher inductance then metaloxide resistors, but how much will this alter the frequency response and phase?
It's fun to tinker and fiddle. But I'd suggest you pick a speaker with more potential. This already looks good and has good reviews.
If you are serious - get a measuring kit setup so you can see the effect of what you are doing. Sure you can just swap parts and use your ear to simply say do I like it or not... but measurements will help you track in a direction, rather than a random crapshoot
If you are serious - get a measuring kit setup so you can see the effect of what you are doing. Sure you can just swap parts and use your ear to simply say do I like it or not... but measurements will help you track in a direction, rather than a random crapshoot
+5000 on having a measurement system.
You can get started pretty cheap - Behringer UMC202HD, ECM8000, mic stand, XLR cable. If you get a couple of 1/4" jack cables and a 100ohm resistor, you can do impedance, too.
Chris
PS - My current speakers use 15 components for a 2-way design. Both drivers needed a lot of work to get them to play nice.
You can get started pretty cheap - Behringer UMC202HD, ECM8000, mic stand, XLR cable. If you get a couple of 1/4" jack cables and a 100ohm resistor, you can do impedance, too.
Chris
PS - My current speakers use 15 components for a 2-way design. Both drivers needed a lot of work to get them to play nice.
If the crossover has appropriately cut between the drivers and pushed their flaws into the background, only then it may be appropriate to try some global EQ.
Ja, those Bennics are putting a hurting on my sensibilities too! And who's ever seen a puny 100V rating on a film cap??
Btw, did you know that a hen can be taught to never lose at tic-tac-toe (aka naughts and crosses)? But not a blind hen...
Btw, did you know that a hen can be taught to never lose at tic-tac-toe (aka naughts and crosses)? But not a blind hen...
Serious question: do you have an amplifier capable of 100V peak output?
Further, do you have any drivers that will withstand that sort of input?
I do, but I also run a business involving PA systems.
For domestic use, 100V caps will be perfectly fine.
Chris
Just offering OP some encouragement!
No, 100V is not a problem, good for saving space, as OP will find out....?
No, 100V is not a problem, good for saving space, as OP will find out....?
With an increase in thickness, combined with a reduction in capacitance per foil area, what happens to the property of dielectric absorption, and what does this do in a speaker?
Surely you're not asking me?
My default setting is to ignore DA in film caps. However, higher voltage rating is always a good thing, for both film and electrolytics.
My default setting is to ignore DA in film caps. However, higher voltage rating is always a good thing, for both film and electrolytics.