hi bengtx600,
To avoid burning the power tube, MJE15034 15035 must have an independent radiator
To avoid burning the power tube, MJE15034 15035 must have an independent radiator
Atisa188, I've just ordered a PCB with parts, could you please point me where to buy those independent radiators, please?
Also Mouser or DigiKey parts number would be very appreciated, thanks!
Also Mouser or DigiKey parts number would be very appreciated, thanks!
I used audio cable for output, and at least 14G . cable are always soldered on one side, and if it needs to be crimped, to facilitate the repair, crimp and soldered to the terminal!
I do my own 2uH coil at the output with 16G wire. It is lower then 2uH because of board and parts position around, but it is Ok.
I do my own 2uH coil at the output with 16G wire. It is lower then 2uH because of board and parts position around, but it is Ok.
I put all transistors (TO-3PL and TO-220) on same heatsink , but don't forget your silicon or mylar pads....
put all transistors on same heatsink, is awrong approach.
The reason for burning the power tube is that after the radiator heats up, 15034 and 15035 heat up
Even if the BAIC voltage remains unchanged at this time
The reason for burning the power tube is that after the radiator heats up, 15034 and 15035 heat up
Even if the BAIC voltage remains unchanged at this time
Hello guys,
first of all Happy New Year!
I’m soldering the input switch board and in my kit that includes pcb and components I’ve found a discrepancy and maybe you can help me, please.
In the b.o.m. there are electrolytic capacitors for c2, c4, c18 and c20 marked as 68uF/25v (alternative compatibility range 47-100uF) and c13, c14, c29 and c30 marked as 47uF/50v (alternative compatibility range 10-100uF) but in my kit I just have 8 nichicon 220uF/50 volts.
Can I solder all these on c2, c4, c18, c20 and c13, c14, c29 and c30, or do I need to switch them to the exact one as mentioned in the b.o.m.?
Thanks a lot in advance.
first of all Happy New Year!
I’m soldering the input switch board and in my kit that includes pcb and components I’ve found a discrepancy and maybe you can help me, please.
In the b.o.m. there are electrolytic capacitors for c2, c4, c18 and c20 marked as 68uF/25v (alternative compatibility range 47-100uF) and c13, c14, c29 and c30 marked as 47uF/50v (alternative compatibility range 10-100uF) but in my kit I just have 8 nichicon 220uF/50 volts.
Can I solder all these on c2, c4, c18, c20 and c13, c14, c29 and c30, or do I need to switch them to the exact one as mentioned in the b.o.m.?
Thanks a lot in advance.
Hello Danny,
It appears that no one is following this thread anymore. I too am currently building this amp from the same kit that you are using and have the same parts. My feeling is that those caps will be fine, but would like a definitive answer from someone more knowledgeable. I have a couple of resistors that don’t match the schematic and I’ll probably replace them with the correct values. Please post if you have been able to get better answers.
It appears that no one is following this thread anymore. I too am currently building this amp from the same kit that you are using and have the same parts. My feeling is that those caps will be fine, but would like a definitive answer from someone more knowledgeable. I have a couple of resistors that don’t match the schematic and I’ll probably replace them with the correct values. Please post if you have been able to get better answers.
Ciao Furnman,
happy to hear that! Nice to not be alone! 🙂
First off all I'm a newbie and this is my first amp, so I'm not so expert as you can imagine but we can share ideas and thoughts of course.
I choosed exact value capacitors, too (ordering that parts outside of the kit) as schematics states in order to have a "flat" starting point following the designer idea. I think we will have time to change some parts, if it's needed, in the future.
BTW have you already found twelve snap in 10.000uf 100v capacitors for PSU board? I extensively searched for them on web and I can't found Vishay with those specs and I think they are not making them anymore unfortunately, Kemet 10.000uf are in backorder from Mouser but they are not audio grade, if this could be important, don't know. Someone here installed a lower uf values but again I would like to stick my project with the original designer as a starting point? Any idea about that?
Happy building!
happy to hear that! Nice to not be alone! 🙂
First off all I'm a newbie and this is my first amp, so I'm not so expert as you can imagine but we can share ideas and thoughts of course.
I choosed exact value capacitors, too (ordering that parts outside of the kit) as schematics states in order to have a "flat" starting point following the designer idea. I think we will have time to change some parts, if it's needed, in the future.
BTW have you already found twelve snap in 10.000uf 100v capacitors for PSU board? I extensively searched for them on web and I can't found Vishay with those specs and I think they are not making them anymore unfortunately, Kemet 10.000uf are in backorder from Mouser but they are not audio grade, if this could be important, don't know. Someone here installed a lower uf values but again I would like to stick my project with the original designer as a starting point? Any idea about that?
Happy building!
I actually plan to build one of these soon. I have the amp boards, input board, and psu/softstart/speaker protection board. I think the only part I don't have yet is a transformer, which I am still not 100% certain on an ideal VA rating for this build.
I copy and paste the suggestion I got from bengtx600 here above about tranny:
"You can use two Antek AN-5450, AN-6450, or one AN-10450. You can also or to can easily use two AN-5455, AN-6455, or one AN-10455, AN-10458 (Two 500VA is Ok, or one 1000VA is Ok also) Up to 58Vac max. More you put voltage more tight must be the transistor matching.
Softstart 115V on amazon, DC Blocker on Aliexpress, very important because of toroidal saturation."
Please guys read the entire thread, I know it is very long but it worths to know more for the building.
Hope this helps! ;-)
"You can use two Antek AN-5450, AN-6450, or one AN-10450. You can also or to can easily use two AN-5455, AN-6455, or one AN-10455, AN-10458 (Two 500VA is Ok, or one 1000VA is Ok also) Up to 58Vac max. More you put voltage more tight must be the transistor matching.
Softstart 115V on amazon, DC Blocker on Aliexpress, very important because of toroidal saturation."
Please guys read the entire thread, I know it is very long but it worths to know more for the building.
Hope this helps! ;-)
Which boards are the latest/best ones?
I found these ones on Aliexpress,
Aliexpress link to Bryston boards
I found these ones on Aliexpress,
Aliexpress link to Bryston boards
The rev 5.0 are the latest boards. Since this is a fairly old thread, some of the earlier builders probably used earlier versions of the boards, so going back and reading the whole thread is good advice.
Danny, I am using 80 volt Nichicon LS caps sourced from eBay. I’ve used these before with no problems. I will be using a 45-0-45 transformer from Antek which gives me about 63 volts after rectification. Any higher and to stay within 10% tolerance would probably need 100V. Everything’s a trade off…..higher rails, bigger caps equals more expensive.
Danny, I am using 80 volt Nichicon LS caps sourced from eBay. I’ve used these before with no problems. I will be using a 45-0-45 transformer from Antek which gives me about 63 volts after rectification. Any higher and to stay within 10% tolerance would probably need 100V. Everything’s a trade off…..higher rails, bigger caps equals more expensive.
I ordered the boards from the Aliexpress link I posted, I will email the seller and ask for the BOM.
Was just wondering if anyone on here had done a preferred BOM with what we can get for materials in the West.
Was just wondering if anyone on here had done a preferred BOM with what we can get for materials in the West.
There is no BOM, best idea for me (as suggested from one user here) was to buy the kit composed by pcb + components. I tried to start a bom but it was very difficult, maybe you can but some components seams to be difficult to find and you need to have sone knowledge (that I don’t have) to adapt things.
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
For bom I mean a link ready to be bought from supplier like Mouser or Digikey of course, but it does not exist.
Seller has the bom for your board.
BTW all documentation are available along this thread if you go back.
Enjoy!
Seller has the bom for your board.
BTW all documentation are available along this thread if you go back.
Enjoy!