Source? Mainly PS4. I'll run through my usual bass test scenes and let you know how it sounds.
Thank you for continuing to help.
Thank you for continuing to help.
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REW - Room EQ Wizard Room Acoustics Software Click on REW for windows and jump through whatever hoops to download it. There is a signal generator on the main page of the program for controlling sweeps manually. The only thing you might not like is the program runs on Java.
Let me know either way. I'll think about the boost. I'm trying to find where your amp starts to roll off down low.
Let me know either way. I'll think about the boost. I'm trying to find where your amp starts to roll off down low.
Oh, duh. I misunderstood. It was just some online generator that went from 150-0.
As for rolloff, I don't know if it has a natural one, but I have both lowpass and highpass disabled.
Still playing scenes, but transition from mains to sub seems a bit smoother. Huge peak is still there of course but this looks like a good start.
As for rolloff, I don't know if it has a natural one, but I have both lowpass and highpass disabled.
Still playing scenes, but transition from mains to sub seems a bit smoother. Huge peak is still there of course but this looks like a good start.
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Just as long as it doesn't "fall off of a cliff" worse than before down low. Around 36 you said?
By the way, this is the software I am using if you want to download it to get a better idea of what I'm seeing. It's a nice GUI for setting the PEQ and such and much easier to see the effects. You don't need the amp to use it.
http://www.behringerdownload.de/iNuke/iNukeRemoteConnect_V1.4.zip
http://www.behringerdownload.de/iNuke/iNukeRemoteConnect_V1.4.zip
Oh cool. I will mess with it tomorrow. What source stuff on the ps4 were you talking about? Games or movies?
Excursion has to quadruple each octave lower to keep output level consistant in a sealed cabinet. IIRC, your woofer is rated for 19mm Xmax, almost 1.5" peak to peak. A white dot on the cone (white-out, Silver Sharpie) makes it easy to measure excursion.
What kind of excursion are you seeing at 25 Hz?
I have many times gotten right up to the driver when running a loud sweep to listen for noise and look at excursion. It's never gone too crazy as the output is so low by time it hits 25hz, but I will try the dot to better measure it.
A little off topic, but I didn't want to start another thread just to ask.
I added my bump box back into the mix a few days ago to see if I could detect a difference, and the sound is definitely cleaner. Without it, I had to have the attenuators on the amp at almost full and a lot of positive trim on the receiver to match levels with the mains. With the box boosting the signal from the receiver, I can now turn down the amp and get more powerful sound. I'm just worried I may be sending too hot a signal to the amp even with the box's gain at minimum.
The question is, what's the optimum gain structure, and is it worth having fewer components in the signal path (receiver-box-amp vs. receiver-amp) over increased signal strength?
I added my bump box back into the mix a few days ago to see if I could detect a difference, and the sound is definitely cleaner. Without it, I had to have the attenuators on the amp at almost full and a lot of positive trim on the receiver to match levels with the mains. With the box boosting the signal from the receiver, I can now turn down the amp and get more powerful sound. I'm just worried I may be sending too hot a signal to the amp even with the box's gain at minimum.
The question is, what's the optimum gain structure, and is it worth having fewer components in the signal path (receiver-box-amp vs. receiver-amp) over increased signal strength?
1)Why are you worried, does the signal sound distorted to you?
How many dB down are the amp inputs set to?
2) Achieving the frequency response you desire is the goal, if that can't be achieved without the "bump box", the slightly improved signal to noise possible with fewer components is irrelevant.
Hi Sintek, sorry I took so long. I think you should try this one out. It's shaping the eq more like a linkwitz transform curve with an 8dB boost down low.
Welter is right about EQ making excursion go bananas but I have a feeling that you'll be alright with your setup. If you Behringer is anything like my PEQ from them, it'll start rolling off around 20Hz pretty steep anyway. Just don't be a volume hog when you first run through some source material that goes loud down low. Make sure it ain't clacking.
See if you can move the 60Hz up or down in freq and increase and decrease the Q of it until you think the slow sweeps by ear sound the least "peaky".
Let me know how it goes. Are you still thinking about getting a measurement mic? 🙂
Welter is right about EQ making excursion go bananas but I have a feeling that you'll be alright with your setup. If you Behringer is anything like my PEQ from them, it'll start rolling off around 20Hz pretty steep anyway. Just don't be a volume hog when you first run through some source material that goes loud down low. Make sure it ain't clacking.
See if you can move the 60Hz up or down in freq and increase and decrease the Q of it until you think the slow sweeps by ear sound the least "peaky".
Let me know how it goes. Are you still thinking about getting a measurement mic? 🙂
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Also, if you can avoid using the bump box then do so. I wouldn't worry about sending too much to the amp really. I've heard of a lot pro audio amps can deal with close to 10volts on the ins. To be safe, you can generate a sine wave and see what the voltage on the out is with a DMM.
But I wouldn't use it because it probably has a nasty roll off down low to protect from DC offset. More neutering of the juiciest part of the low end = no good.
Bumping the sub level on your AVR can be double checked with sine wavs and a DMM vs what the manual says is the highest output voltage before clipping. Remember to multiply the RMS DMM's reading by 1.414 to get the peak voltage in case that is the only spec given in your AVR's manual. Otherwise, you have to turn up the amp almost all the way, no big deal, it ain't gonna hurt anything.
But I wouldn't use it because it probably has a nasty roll off down low to protect from DC offset. More neutering of the juiciest part of the low end = no good.
Bumping the sub level on your AVR can be double checked with sine wavs and a DMM vs what the manual says is the highest output voltage before clipping. Remember to multiply the RMS DMM's reading by 1.414 to get the peak voltage in case that is the only spec given in your AVR's manual. Otherwise, you have to turn up the amp almost all the way, no big deal, it ain't gonna hurt anything.
Thanks a lot. That looks very interesting. I look forward to doing some testing.
I'm thinking about ordering this one: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-umm-6-usb-measurement-microphone--390-808
Good price, looks ok for starting out since I can't afford the Omnimic right now. For some reason I thought it was cheaper, but I can't justify $300 on a microphone to you-know-who right now.
edit: Did you intend to leave the first band filter as LS12? In the drop down box on the bottom, you can choose from PEQ, LS12, LS6, etc.
I'm thinking about ordering this one: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-umm-6-usb-measurement-microphone--390-808
Good price, looks ok for starting out since I can't afford the Omnimic right now. For some reason I thought it was cheaper, but I can't justify $300 on a microphone to you-know-who right now.
edit: Did you intend to leave the first band filter as LS12? In the drop down box on the bottom, you can choose from PEQ, LS12, LS6, etc.
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Yeah, I guess that's a low shelf filter 12dB per octave? It was intentional. I like it way better than a PEQ filter because it interferes less with the 60Hz filter at the same time boosting ALL of the stuff where your sub is falling off.
If you look at this pic I attached:
The idea is to give your sub the opposite of it's close mic response in eq. Pull down it's peak and match it's rolloff down low with boost. Ideally the end result is a flatter sub response that stretches lower in frequency. Your room is going to throw a curve ball or two but you can start dealing with that when you get your mic.
If you look at this pic I attached:
The idea is to give your sub the opposite of it's close mic response in eq. Pull down it's peak and match it's rolloff down low with boost. Ideally the end result is a flatter sub response that stretches lower in frequency. Your room is going to throw a curve ball or two but you can start dealing with that when you get your mic.
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Thanks, that's easy to understand.
I ran a few sweeps. Just a little problem in the 60hz area where there's a null. Watched a few scenes of Olympus Has Fallen; an explosion lit up 3 of the 4 clip LEDs at not that loud of a volume, so I may back down the boost a little.
Excursion looks fine at 25hz, but then its output is still fairly low. I'm thinking about pulling out some of the fill material. It's been some time since I tinkered with the box. I thought I had only put in around 2 pounds, but I can't find the rest of it so I'm thinking I used all or most of it which is closer to 2 3/4 pounds.
I ran a few sweeps. Just a little problem in the 60hz area where there's a null. Watched a few scenes of Olympus Has Fallen; an explosion lit up 3 of the 4 clip LEDs at not that loud of a volume, so I may back down the boost a little.
Excursion looks fine at 25hz, but then its output is still fairly low. I'm thinking about pulling out some of the fill material. It's been some time since I tinkered with the box. I thought I had only put in around 2 pounds, but I can't find the rest of it so I'm thinking I used all or most of it which is closer to 2 3/4 pounds.
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