theAnonymous1 said:Jeff, I opened one of my amps up to do more modding and took a look at the over-current resistors for you. The resistors (3.9k) are R27 and R26 in the blow pic.......
You can try changing these to a lower value and see if the amp still goes into protect. The Tripath datasheet says you can even set them at 0R, but this is not recommended as the amplifier will not have any over-current protection and would attempt to drive a short (KABOOM!).
BTW, A DC coupled AMP7-T comming soon......
Thanks dude... I looked at the Data Sheet.. I guess you can even jumper it in a way that it a restart pin goes high and the music comes back. I would rather reset it manually if something went wrong.
I might play with the resister values.
I don't want to get too carried away.. Maybe a 2.2k? What happens in overcurrent? Clipping??
Thanks,
Jeff
jeffrae said:
Over-current does not necessarily mean clipping. It's just means more current is flowing through the output devices than has been allowed for by the limiting resistors.
You could also define over-current as more current flowing than the output devices can handle safely.
2.2k should be a safe value to test with. I would measure the output voltage that it trips at before and after you change the values. Don't just go by "it sounds like it plays louder before it trips".
And as always... proceed at your own risk.
I finished connecting the circuit for DC coupling. It works, but for some reason the offset drifts way too much and it seems random.
I can set it as close to zero as I can get and then come back and check it later or turn the amp off/on and it will be like +/-300mv off. I think the only way to to do it correctly would be some kind of servo circuit and that is beyond my skill level.
There is also a bit of hum, just like there was before when I tried to bypass the op-amp circuit. The inputs to the chip are very sensitive to picking up noise, probably from the stupidly high gain.
The board works beautifully with my AMP32.
I can set it as close to zero as I can get and then come back and check it later or turn the amp off/on and it will be like +/-300mv off. I think the only way to to do it correctly would be some kind of servo circuit and that is beyond my skill level.
There is also a bit of hum, just like there was before when I tried to bypass the op-amp circuit. The inputs to the chip are very sensitive to picking up noise, probably from the stupidly high gain.
The board works beautifully with my AMP32.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Info On Audiosource Amp Seven T
Hello, I found this discussion forum when doing some searches for
Carver related amps, in finding some Audiosource hardware.
I'm not technically capable, so my area of inquiry is more of a, how good is this gear out of the box.
I had a pair of Infinity Qbs for almost 30 years ( They're tired, and I
found a great deal on a pair of new Infinity Beta50s ) running off of
a Hafler DH-200, with a Carver C-4000 as the preamp. Theres an
Infinity centre speaker, and a pair of small EPIs as the rears.
I'm contemplating a new(er) amp to go with the new speakers. I've
always been fond of Carver gear, and Audiosource seems to be fairly
similar.
I found offerings of Amp Seven Ts from The Cable Supply going for
about $300. Thats a good price for a 200 W/ch amp.
Basically, I'd like some input on how good is this amp for this purpose,
assuming that I use it as it is, right out of the box.
Any information that you kind folks would see git to offer would be
appreciated. Thank you, Andre
Hello, I found this discussion forum when doing some searches for
Carver related amps, in finding some Audiosource hardware.
I'm not technically capable, so my area of inquiry is more of a, how good is this gear out of the box.
I had a pair of Infinity Qbs for almost 30 years ( They're tired, and I
found a great deal on a pair of new Infinity Beta50s ) running off of
a Hafler DH-200, with a Carver C-4000 as the preamp. Theres an
Infinity centre speaker, and a pair of small EPIs as the rears.
I'm contemplating a new(er) amp to go with the new speakers. I've
always been fond of Carver gear, and Audiosource seems to be fairly
similar.
I found offerings of Amp Seven Ts from The Cable Supply going for
about $300. Thats a good price for a 200 W/ch amp.
Basically, I'd like some input on how good is this amp for this purpose,
assuming that I use it as it is, right out of the box.
Any information that you kind folks would see git to offer would be
appreciated. Thank you, Andre
So far it has been a decent amp for me.
IT doesn't appear to have the power that my AudioSource Amp Three has.. Maybe the Tripath's have trouble with the lower frequencies?
My Amp Three appears to be able to fill an area with more full sound..
I think the Amp 3 just might let me push it harder without faulting..
I am going to change the current limiting resister and see if it will allow a little more headroom for the lew frequencies.
IT doesn't appear to have the power that my AudioSource Amp Three has.. Maybe the Tripath's have trouble with the lower frequencies?
My Amp Three appears to be able to fill an area with more full sound..
I think the Amp 3 just might let me push it harder without faulting..
I am going to change the current limiting resister and see if it will allow a little more headroom for the lew frequencies.
I think it's an awsome amp for the money; I have three of them. It's also about $200 cheaper than the current SS offerings from AudioSource in the same power range.
Even though it is a fairly capable amp out of the box, I suggest a minimum of changes that anyone can do.
Starting from the beggining of the input chain....
1) Bypass the Cerafine caps on the input board (this can be done by just soldering a piece of wire across it's pins).
2) Remove the volume pots from the input chain by moving the input connector straight to the amp board.
3) Change the stock 4.7uf el-cheapo electrolytics to anything other than el-cheapo electrolytics
You can also change the resistors on the outputs of the op-amp to suit your gains needs. I think they are 11k or 12k.
Even though it is a fairly capable amp out of the box, I suggest a minimum of changes that anyone can do.
Starting from the beggining of the input chain....
1) Bypass the Cerafine caps on the input board (this can be done by just soldering a piece of wire across it's pins).
2) Remove the volume pots from the input chain by moving the input connector straight to the amp board.
3) Change the stock 4.7uf el-cheapo electrolytics to anything other than el-cheapo electrolytics
You can also change the resistors on the outputs of the op-amp to suit your gains needs. I think they are 11k or 12k.
Anonymous1 - is changing the overload resistor a priority/must?
I do not have a Amp 7 - yet (debating buying two Amp 7 vs building another UCD400AD to Biamp the maggies), but know that the DCP-501 was totally worthless until the overload resistor setpoint was changed.
Maybe not a big problem with the Amp7 as it was with the DCP. Nothing like having an amp act like a Micro$oft Operating System (having to reboot the amp overload)...
Have an opinion on Amp7 (Tripath TA0104) vs UCD400AD on SQ?
I do not have a Amp 7 - yet (debating buying two Amp 7 vs building another UCD400AD to Biamp the maggies), but know that the DCP-501 was totally worthless until the overload resistor setpoint was changed.
Maybe not a big problem with the Amp7 as it was with the DCP. Nothing like having an amp act like a Micro$oft Operating System (having to reboot the amp overload)...
Have an opinion on Amp7 (Tripath TA0104) vs UCD400AD on SQ?
john65b said:
I can't really comment on the over-current limit. I haven't managed to trip any of mine, but I haven't driven them that hard either.
Like I've said before, I think it's a great amp for the money, but I don't think it could compete with a good UCD setup. But there is no way you will get a stereo UCD setup with power supply and chassis for $300(not to mention assembly time and hassle). I guess it comes down to cost vs. performance.
A Finding..
I have two of these...
I was able to get rid of the HUM by disconecting one or the other...
I was also able to get rid of the hum by disconnecting one of the ground pins on one or the other...
They are on the same power strip so I am suprised that I had a ground loop. I even tried different strips...
For some reason I get a nasty hum if I have more then one amp 7 plugged in.. Removing the ground pin on one or the other resolves this.
I have two of these...
I was able to get rid of the HUM by disconecting one or the other...
I was also able to get rid of the hum by disconnecting one of the ground pins on one or the other...
They are on the same power strip so I am suprised that I had a ground loop. I even tried different strips...
For some reason I get a nasty hum if I have more then one amp 7 plugged in.. Removing the ground pin on one or the other resolves this.
Ground pin is there for a reason. For us "tinkerers" I am glad its there...although I have used the "Cheater" a few times too, but worry about making permanent (kids kids kids)...
I would think a better grounding design inside the chassis would alleviate the need to remove the ground pin in the first place.
I am not an EE, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night.
Bahaha.
Actually, I'm a Mechanical Engineer.
I would think a better grounding design inside the chassis would alleviate the need to remove the ground pin in the first place.
I am not an EE, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night.
Bahaha.
Actually, I'm a Mechanical Engineer.
OK, my amps were just certified safe by a UL inspector.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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