I’ve seen some threads discussing this but I haven’t found any that definitively answer all my questions. I’m trying to build a tube preamplifier (all point-to-point wiring, no PCBs or anything) for my Hi-Fi setup and I’m not sure what kind of wire to use for internal connections?
It seems there are a lot of options, i’d like to know what gauge wire is best? What material, pure copper or tinned copper? Is braided or solid better? Does it need it be shielded or is this not important? Is this going to be something that significantly affects the sound? I imagine it's not extremely important but I'd hate to compromise the sound cause I used bad wires or something.
Thanks!
It seems there are a lot of options, i’d like to know what gauge wire is best? What material, pure copper or tinned copper? Is braided or solid better? Does it need it be shielded or is this not important? Is this going to be something that significantly affects the sound? I imagine it's not extremely important but I'd hate to compromise the sound cause I used bad wires or something.
Thanks!
I guarantee you will not hear any difference between them, not even with Silver Litz wire.
I use whatever I have to hand; solid core would be my preference purley because it gives a neater result.
This makes me wonder if there is a thread asking which sounds better - tinned versus gold plated pcb tracks, and what is the best sounding coppper thickness.....?
Your choice of components, transformers and tubes will have a massively bigger effect on the sound.
I use whatever I have to hand; solid core would be my preference purley because it gives a neater result.
This makes me wonder if there is a thread asking which sounds better - tinned versus gold plated pcb tracks, and what is the best sounding coppper thickness.....?
Your choice of components, transformers and tubes will have a massively bigger effect on the sound.
I find unplated copper solders more easily than tinned copper. The solder wets better (as long as the copper is clean and shiny).
Yeah, I'm not saying it can't be used - I was just relating my experience that plain copper solders more readily. I presume it's because of oxides on the tin plating. To be clear, I do use tinned wire but not for my better projects (or, where I'm crimping the connections).
I like to reuse wire - especially from computer PSU's - but because it's tinned, I found that it is slightly reluctant to accept solder.
I like to reuse wire - especially from computer PSU's - but because it's tinned, I found that it is slightly reluctant to accept solder.
For internal wiring you could use either solid or stranded. I like to use crimped connections so that dictate I have to use stranded wire. When using screwed connections solid is a better choice (or you put sleeves on each end of stranded wire). If you solder it doesn't matter. Solid stays put when you "bend it in place" but you have to mechanically fix it anyway.
More important is section regarding to current going through the wire. And for a tube amplifier maybe temperature rating of the insulation but I have no experience with tubes. I just use cable for wiring lights/appliances/cabinets H05V-K in Europe. H07V-K is similar but to a higher voltage. Exists in lots of colours and sections. Just buy it at a shop for electricians by 100 meter boxes. I keep it together with tie-wraps from the same shop.
More important is section regarding to current going through the wire. And for a tube amplifier maybe temperature rating of the insulation but I have no experience with tubes. I just use cable for wiring lights/appliances/cabinets H05V-K in Europe. H07V-K is similar but to a higher voltage. Exists in lots of colours and sections. Just buy it at a shop for electricians by 100 meter boxes. I keep it together with tie-wraps from the same shop.
Choose wiring with insulation that can handle the voltages involved - for instance don't use 300V hook-up wire in a 450V circuit, get 600V wire...
Wire thickness depends on current required, and whether it needs to hold its shape. Multistrand is normally used as monofilament wire can fatigue in high-vibration environments due to resonances unless well lashed-down.
Wire thickness depends on current required, and whether it needs to hold its shape. Multistrand is normally used as monofilament wire can fatigue in high-vibration environments due to resonances unless well lashed-down.
The best choice is silver-plated PTFE insulated wire, but you'll pay dearly for it. This is what's used for military and other very high-end laboratory equipment. It's extremely temperature resistant and has good abrasion resistance. The silver plating means that it solder very easily, and works great with crimps.
Failing that, I try really hard to use high-temperature wire, since you don't have to be quite as fast when soldering it.
If you need cheap HV wire, RG58 (get the stuff with the solid PE dielectric, not the foam) works very well. It's OK up to about 20 kV. I trust it a bit more than silicone HV wire since the insulation is a little less prone to nicks and cuts (just remember that it is NOT high temperature wire).
For audio signal cable inside of equipment: Mogami W2944 "console" cable. It's shielded and easy to work with (very flexible). When I rewired my mixing console (about 150 connectors on the back panel to replace unobtanium multipins), that's what I used, and every time I do maintenance on that desk I am incredibly glad I didn't cheap out on the signal wire.
Failing that, I try really hard to use high-temperature wire, since you don't have to be quite as fast when soldering it.
If you need cheap HV wire, RG58 (get the stuff with the solid PE dielectric, not the foam) works very well. It's OK up to about 20 kV. I trust it a bit more than silicone HV wire since the insulation is a little less prone to nicks and cuts (just remember that it is NOT high temperature wire).
For audio signal cable inside of equipment: Mogami W2944 "console" cable. It's shielded and easy to work with (very flexible). When I rewired my mixing console (about 150 connectors on the back panel to replace unobtanium multipins), that's what I used, and every time I do maintenance on that desk I am incredibly glad I didn't cheap out on the signal wire.
I'd agree on the silver plated PTFE "mil-spec" wire, either stranded or solid based on use. There are a number of sources that this can be bought for very reasonable prices. Sources such as John's wire shop or skip malley. The teflon jacket doesn't melt, 600V rated. I normally use 24 or 22 AWG stranded, but for higher current would go to a heavier gauge. Solder easily as well. You will need decent wire strippers. I've used Ideal T-strippers for years.