...Terminus on driver side....my first thought really... I would use this outside mostly, so port on driver side would be best...
Outside?..Hm..Maybe a ML-TL would be a better choice if to avoid a BR with a tall ringing port?
FWIW:Here's a real bad CAR? BR example to be avoided that show severe ringing if not the entire box and the port partly(effectively ~47")are stuffed.
I didn't posted this to a thread a few weeks ago as there was to many wacky comments on why a very similar box didn't perform well..
b🙂
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Outside?..Hm..Maybe a ML-TL would be a better choice if to avoid a BR with a tall ringing port?
FWIW:Here's a real bad CAR? BR example to be avoided that show severe ringing if not the entire box and the port partly(effectively ~47")are stuffed.
I didn't posted this to a thread a few weeks ago as there was to many wacky comments on why a very similar box didn't perform well..
b🙂
Isn't that ringing occuring way above the passband that car audio subwoofers are normally used in? They're typically cut off @80 Hz, if not lower.
Isn't that ringing occuring way above the passband that car audio subwoofers are normally used in? They're typically cut off @80 Hz, if not lower.
You're right In a car the ringing is near blameless levels and would in most noisy cabins be masked but if in a quiet room with a picky listener, (Me of course 😱):
The ringing would be recognized as when XO:d at ~80 Hz(I prefer lower) this ringing is ~20 mS to long (~43 mS = ~15m) is where I set my 'Distance cue arrays to JND and I do not like attention(amplitudes at higher levels but less than ~105 dB) from a sub that pops out and tilts my central phantom spread more than necessarily.
Remember that the ringing(coloring) would be outside of BER 1,thus extremely easy to be heard when long in lime.
b🙂
PS: Submitting a picture using IMO absolute minimal damping ( A ~100g batten behind the driver magnet on the internal rear wall side:
Attachments
Ok so... I think I'm going with one of these 3 boxes for ease. Question is, should I port or not :/
Dayton Audio SWC1-VI 1.0 ft³ Subwoofer Cabinet Black Vinyl 302-839
Dayton Audio SWC2-VI 2.0 ft³ Subwoofer Cabinet Black Vinyl 302-843
Dayton Audio SWC3-VI 3.0 ft³ Subwoofer Cabinet Black Vinyl 302-847
Dayton Audio SWC1-VI 1.0 ft³ Subwoofer Cabinet Black Vinyl 302-839
Dayton Audio SWC2-VI 2.0 ft³ Subwoofer Cabinet Black Vinyl 302-843
Dayton Audio SWC3-VI 3.0 ft³ Subwoofer Cabinet Black Vinyl 302-847
It's advertised for sealed or ported. I did run it in WinISD and it recommend a sealed box slightly less than 1cf.
At this point I think you have to determine the Qtc (sealed box) for the room you want to put it in (way over my head).
Dayton RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm Home 844632006913 | eBay
At this point I think you have to determine the Qtc (sealed box) for the room you want to put it in (way over my head).
Dayton RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm Home 844632006913 | eBay
Hi,
IMO, The closed box is OK but the ported box would have port severe issues.
A TL would be a much better performer when placed at floor level, near a room corner.
b🙂
Bjorno
What software did you use to generate this printout?
Thanks!
Bjorno
What software did you use to generate this printout?
Thanks!
Hi, In that picture: All calculations are using Mathcad and the simulations are MJK:s quarter-wave Transmission-Line programs.Visit:
Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design
b🙂
PS: Understanding the acoustics behind an offset driver (position dependent) design...:
http://www.brinesacoustics.com/Pages/Nature.html
Last edited:
Hi, In that picture: All calculations are using Mathcad and the simulations are MJK:s quarter-wave Transmission-Line programs.
...
Thanks bjorno! 😉
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