“A Champaign lifestyle on a beer budget” may not be possible in general, but I believe is somewhat attainable in audio. I would like to replace my Yamaha receiver – CRX TS10 – with something (hopefully) better. My budget said class D. But I read a lot about “power”, but nothing about “musical.” So I searched for a good used A/B. The Nakamichi SR 2A (30 RMS into 8 ohms; 45 max; 55 max into 4 ohms) designed by Nelson Pass and received some very good reviews (https://bargainaudioblog.com/2018/05/13/nakamichi-sr-2a-stereo-receiver/ ). This has set me back $127.00, but was in my budget. Now for some speakers. Therein lies the rub (Shakespeare?).
I checked all kinds of reviews and eBay listings. I could find nothing suitable for less than about $400.00. I have in the past made a some speakers from the Madisound website for my tube amp – long since gone. So why not build again?
I viewed a number of “Kirby meets audio” videos. He recommended 2 Dayton Audio PS 95-8 3.5” full range speakers (85.56 db 2.83V/1m; 10 watts) and a Dayton Audio DCS 165-4 ( 87.4 db 2.83V/1m; 100 watts). This, plus about $70 in hardware, 14 gauge wire, fiber-fill (etc.) will set me back $170. This is on my Parts Express order, but I have not yet pulled the plug.
As of now, I have about $300 potentially committed – not a lot for most people, but a fair amount for me. But what price audio nirvana? (yeah, sure…)
The reason for all the specs is because I built a number of projects, I still do not understand electronics very well. If the instructions say “solder wire from point A to point B,” I can do it. But don’t ask me to explain why.
Now comes the question(s): how to I set up these (or other) speakers to best advantage (want frequency response down to about 40 hz):
Music preference: classical, 50’s jazz, vocals, some 70’s rock.
May thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions.
I checked all kinds of reviews and eBay listings. I could find nothing suitable for less than about $400.00. I have in the past made a some speakers from the Madisound website for my tube amp – long since gone. So why not build again?
I viewed a number of “Kirby meets audio” videos. He recommended 2 Dayton Audio PS 95-8 3.5” full range speakers (85.56 db 2.83V/1m; 10 watts) and a Dayton Audio DCS 165-4 ( 87.4 db 2.83V/1m; 100 watts). This, plus about $70 in hardware, 14 gauge wire, fiber-fill (etc.) will set me back $170. This is on my Parts Express order, but I have not yet pulled the plug.
As of now, I have about $300 potentially committed – not a lot for most people, but a fair amount for me. But what price audio nirvana? (yeah, sure…)
The reason for all the specs is because I built a number of projects, I still do not understand electronics very well. If the instructions say “solder wire from point A to point B,” I can do it. But don’t ask me to explain why.
Now comes the question(s): how to I set up these (or other) speakers to best advantage (want frequency response down to about 40 hz):
- Separate enclosures for each (wood cost s/b cheap – small boxes). Hook up the PS 95’s to channel A; sub-woofer to L or R of channel B. Play both channel simultaneously and use base tone control to adjust bass SPL. I have no idea if this will work – 8 ohms vs 4 ohms impedance? Will my 30 watt amplifier be able to provide enough juice? Etc. No extra costs.
- Separate enclosures for each but use a crossover in one, output to 10 ft wire to sub-woofer. But will this work? Impedance mismatch on speakers a problem? Etc. Extra costs: some hardware and crossover components
- Add a Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT2 100W 2.1 Class D Bluetooth Amp for $85.00. Or the Dayton Audio SPA100-D 100 Watt Class-D Subwoofer Plate Amplifier for $90.00. Or the Dayton Audio work if no RCA low out from my amp? The first one was recommended by “Kirby meets audio,” so it must work somehow, but these is no Bluetooth in my system. and no low frequency out. This second option seemed to work per a previous thread - see https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/connecting-a-single-passive-sub-to-stereo-amp.371607/
- Use 2 speaker/cabinet design. Keep the PS 95’s(?) and use different woofers(?). Net costs: unknown – may be less, probably more.
Music preference: classical, 50’s jazz, vocals, some 70’s rock.
May thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions.
I have been thinking about how electronics work nowadays (I'm old school, aged 72). The solution is the Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT2 100W 2.1 Class D Amp. Take the speaker output from the back of the stereo. In my case, it is just wires. Take 2 wires and connect at one end the speaker outputs and the other end into a 3.5mm (1/8") stereo jack. Input this into the back of the Dayton amp. The amp will apply a high pass to the signal that will run to the speaker output jacks in the back of the unit to that will go to the speakers. The the amp will take the signal, with high frequencies - determined by the variable low pass filter ("Sub Level") to the amp and give it to the sub out speaker jacks.
I believe that this is a better way to "cut" the frequencies, rather than have the speaker's acoustic characteristics fight it out and generate displeasing frequencies that are not eliminated by the crossover.
I believe that this may or may not be technically correct explanation, but hopefully conceptually correct. If there is someone who would be willing to correct me in my explanation/understanding, I would appreciate it!
This took a while. My brain hurts! I'm going to take the rest of the day off!
Thanks to all who took a look!
I believe that this is a better way to "cut" the frequencies, rather than have the speaker's acoustic characteristics fight it out and generate displeasing frequencies that are not eliminated by the crossover.
I believe that this may or may not be technically correct explanation, but hopefully conceptually correct. If there is someone who would be willing to correct me in my explanation/understanding, I would appreciate it!
This took a while. My brain hurts! I'm going to take the rest of the day off!
Thanks to all who took a look!
Thanks for the head's up on the alternative 2.1 power amp. I found one on Amazon for $23.00, but I would need to also purchase a 24 volt 5 amp power supply, total $41.00. The Dayton Audio amp will cost $78.00. The Dayton has 5 year warranty; good reliability and solid construction. I suppose that I will need to decide whether or not the additional value is worth the extra $37.00.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Amazon India starts at about $4.00 for the amp.
Market price is about $2.50 here in local shops.
Meanwell or similar 12 / 24V 5A SMPS is within $10.
But peace of mind is also important, particularly as we grow older.
No ties to any names above...
Market price is about $2.50 here in local shops.
Meanwell or similar 12 / 24V 5A SMPS is within $10.
But peace of mind is also important, particularly as we grow older.
No ties to any names above...
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I'll vouch for the Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT2 had one for a few years now never had any problems the BT works great gives a reasonable range up to 15m(about 50'), the only complaint I have is there's no highpass on the main speakers, running the little PS-95 's you may want to do a highpass passively.
The Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT2 runs the workshop boombox(Wavecor TW030WA11 tweets, Dayton RS180-4 mids and a RS265HF sub)works very well, the speaker combo could easily handle double the power though, but its loud enough to hear over my tablesaw and dust extractor system running(earmufflers on too)
The Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT2 runs the workshop boombox(Wavecor TW030WA11 tweets, Dayton RS180-4 mids and a RS265HF sub)works very well, the speaker combo could easily handle double the power though, but its loud enough to hear over my tablesaw and dust extractor system running(earmufflers on too)
I would also suggest the Dayton amp. You can use an old laptop power supply (19 volts, 3 amps or more) if you have one laying around. That will provide plenty of power to the amp. As far as speakers, The PS 95s are great and you can use one of the Dayton SD series subwoofers. There are plenty of others as well that'll reach down to the 40s.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SD215A-88-8-DVC-Subwoofer-295-484?quantity=1
You could also stay with the Nakamichi receiver and go with a Voxel powered sub. It'll only set you back about $100. I built one and am very impressed. The designer, Paul Carmody, has a lot of great designs.
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/58008-voxel-a-mini-sub
One last thought, don't discount a good 2 way build. This page has a few options
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy
I'm a fan of simple set ups like what you're looking to do. I have a few different set-ups of varying costs and I know they don't have to be expensive to sound great.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SD215A-88-8-DVC-Subwoofer-295-484?quantity=1
You could also stay with the Nakamichi receiver and go with a Voxel powered sub. It'll only set you back about $100. I built one and am very impressed. The designer, Paul Carmody, has a lot of great designs.
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/58008-voxel-a-mini-sub
One last thought, don't discount a good 2 way build. This page has a few options
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy
I'm a fan of simple set ups like what you're looking to do. I have a few different set-ups of varying costs and I know they don't have to be expensive to sound great.
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Take the speaker output from the back of the stereo. In my case, it is just wires. Take 2 wires and connect at one end the speaker outputs and the other end into a 3.5mm (1/8") stereo jack. Input this into the back of the Dayton amp.
I don't think your amp will like any of this. That's too much power on the input signal for the Dayton amp. The only way this will work is with pre in/pre out jacks, which the Nak doesn't have.
I don't think your amp will like any of this. That's too much power on the input signal for the Dayton amp. The only way this will work is with pre in/pre out jacks, which the Nak doesn't have.