I potted some small inductors with Loctite Extreme Glue and was happy with the results. I used it because it was something I already had on hand. It's a "sillane moisture-curing polymer" that's dense and rubbery when cured. The potential downsides are cost and cure time.
https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/fix/general-purpose/loctite_extreme_glue.html
https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/fix/general-purpose/loctite_extreme_glue.html
I use this. I have no idea if its best or worst but it sticks to almost anything and is something like a synthetic rubber. It does take a few days to dry,
Lexel
https://www.powertownsend.com/shop/...caulk-polymer-sealant-bright-white?SKU=780502
I use the White one and there is also a clear version which I have not tried.
It is removable but not particularly easy to do so.
Lexel
https://www.powertownsend.com/shop/...caulk-polymer-sealant-bright-white?SKU=780502
I use the White one and there is also a clear version which I have not tried.
It is removable but not particularly easy to do so.
Those would be 'neutral cure' silicones which release alcohol on drying rather than 'acetoxy cure' silicones which release acetic acid.
Thanks for that bringing that to my attention.
I recently rebuilt a pair of crossovers (point-to-point, not PCB). I had a tube of Shoe Goo lying around, so I decided to investigate.
Shoe Goo looks like a thick caulk, but unlike caulk it is made of styrene-butadiene with toluene / tetrachloroethylene for solvent. In that it is very similar to E6000, but thicker in consistency. It smells nasty and appropriate PPE is probably a good idea. Incidentally, both products are made by the same company.
Shoe Goo tends to self-level (slowly oozes out) when wet. It sets within half an hour. It cures much stiffer than silicone, but not hard like epoxy. It retains a small level of elasticity when fully cured. Once it's on, it's on solid, and peeling it off would be no easy task.
I think a more rigid bond is preferable in crossover situations, making a heavy component less likely to reach critical resonance and shake itself into oblivion. I know, not a very scientific explanation, but I'm sure you see what I mean 🙂
Shoe Goo looks like a thick caulk, but unlike caulk it is made of styrene-butadiene with toluene / tetrachloroethylene for solvent. In that it is very similar to E6000, but thicker in consistency. It smells nasty and appropriate PPE is probably a good idea. Incidentally, both products are made by the same company.
Shoe Goo tends to self-level (slowly oozes out) when wet. It sets within half an hour. It cures much stiffer than silicone, but not hard like epoxy. It retains a small level of elasticity when fully cured. Once it's on, it's on solid, and peeling it off would be no easy task.
I think a more rigid bond is preferable in crossover situations, making a heavy component less likely to reach critical resonance and shake itself into oblivion. I know, not a very scientific explanation, but I'm sure you see what I mean 🙂
The transformers in my monoblock amps are bolted to a 6mm acrylic disks, these are in turn glued to 12mm thick neoprene foamed rubber sheet, think very thick wetsuit, and these are then glued to the chassis. No hard mounting, no through bolts to the chassis.
I wouldn't leave them upside down for very long, but they've been fine for five years, moved around loads, trips to hifi shows, loaned to friends.
They're stuck on with car body panel bond, 3M 08115, two part epoxy.
The thick heavy foamed rubber utterly damps vibration, you can neither feel nor hear anything with the amps turned on.
You could do similar with a crossover by cutting suitable size holes in a sheet to partially press the components into.
Wouldn't make damn bit of difference though, film caps and coils vibrate due to magnetostriction, they're not microphonic...
Encapsulation might fo something,....
I wouldn't leave them upside down for very long, but they've been fine for five years, moved around loads, trips to hifi shows, loaned to friends.
They're stuck on with car body panel bond, 3M 08115, two part epoxy.
The thick heavy foamed rubber utterly damps vibration, you can neither feel nor hear anything with the amps turned on.
You could do similar with a crossover by cutting suitable size holes in a sheet to partially press the components into.
Wouldn't make damn bit of difference though, film caps and coils vibrate due to magnetostriction, they're not microphonic...
Encapsulation might fo something,....
Yes. That exactly, is not available in Greece, but we do use car windshield mount adhesives for the purpose.
Yep, Shoe Goo. Decades ago, we (R&D department) used it to hold flexible cables together in a very expensive test stand.
That stand, tested one of the largest analog IC's made in the commercial world
The Sikaflex line of sealants are highly regarded and used heavily in the marine industry 👍
I can only imagine Sika FLex in electronics may work well.
I used it to seal two cement slabs on the third floor of an apartment building many years ago.
I thought I was putting a bandaid on a serious design/engineering flaw.
Full direct Canadian exposure to the sun and elements and extreme temperature changes.
Funny that building suffered a massive ice dam just a few weeks ago and I was called to look at it.
There was nothing I could do about the roof ice dam but recommend a new roof with a continuous membrane incorporated into it. I may have some contractors bid on that later.
I did some poking around in the snow and ice where the two cement slabs were bonded with Sika Flex.
I gotta tell you, the product was mint condition. Fully bonded with zero signs of change. Unbelievable performance all these years later.
The recent ice dam and water melt damage occurred 7 to 15 feet above the cement slabs.
I used it to seal two cement slabs on the third floor of an apartment building many years ago.
I thought I was putting a bandaid on a serious design/engineering flaw.
Full direct Canadian exposure to the sun and elements and extreme temperature changes.
Funny that building suffered a massive ice dam just a few weeks ago and I was called to look at it.
There was nothing I could do about the roof ice dam but recommend a new roof with a continuous membrane incorporated into it. I may have some contractors bid on that later.
I did some poking around in the snow and ice where the two cement slabs were bonded with Sika Flex.
I gotta tell you, the product was mint condition. Fully bonded with zero signs of change. Unbelievable performance all these years later.
The recent ice dam and water melt damage occurred 7 to 15 feet above the cement slabs.
Some sealants are acid-cure, which means if used on electronics simply rot away PCB traces over a period... Only use materials known to be safe for electronics if you want to avoid nasty surprises down the line...