I'm surprised the Markaudio drivers haven't entered the discussion yet....
The Madisound Speaker Store
The Madisound Speaker Store
I have not tried it but this one does not look bad :
http://www.tymphany.com/files/HDS-P835025 Rev2_0.pdf
http://www.tymphany.com/files/HDS-P835025 Rev2_0.pdf
Joachim,
I ordered two of these and they measure pretty much on spec, which is what I know Peerless for.
It is a very well made driver with the leads to the VC woven into the spider. For woofers, this is a big thing; flapping leads can be a important contributor to distortion and other artifacts.
The only reason I have not applied it yet is because I am working on another prototype right now, but I think it is highly recommendable, certainly considering the price.
Joachim, I think you will be pleasantly surprised by the build quality. The only 'gadget' missing is a pierced pole piece, but in view of ample ventilation behind the dust cap, I don't think to have it would give an improvement.
Peerless has shown before that there is no hard relationship between the cost of a driver and its performance.
When I come around to it this weekend I will do some quick measurements as well.
Peerless has shown before that there is no hard relationship between the cost of a driver and its performance.
When I come around to it this weekend I will do some quick measurements as well.
It is not always an advantage to ventilate the pole piece.
It was Klippel that told me that cooling of the voice coil can be better without a hole in the pole piece.
I think Peerless bumps some holes in the voice coil former instead.
I also know from the old days that Peerless drivers are very robust. It is hard to destroy them.
It was Klippel that told me that cooling of the voice coil can be better without a hole in the pole piece.
I think Peerless bumps some holes in the voice coil former instead.
I also know from the old days that Peerless drivers are very robust. It is hard to destroy them.
This one has both holes in the vc former and even larger holes in the alu cone behind the dust cap. Very clever. Bumped back plate too, talking about bumps. You'll like it.
About pierced poles: if done wrong, the tube through the pole will form a Helmholz resonator with the space between pole piece and dustcap.
About pierced poles: if done wrong, the tube through the pole will form a Helmholz resonator with the space between pole piece and dustcap.
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Actually with the hole closed and the driver moving there is more air flow around the voice coil. Compression has to be avoided though or it gets noisy. The Peerless seems to have adequate ventilation though without a hole in the pole piece.
I know it works. The 10cm is used in the Kiso and it plays much louder then it has any right too.
I know it works. The 10cm is used in the Kiso and it plays much louder then it has any right too.
This also an option although expensive :
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/18wu-8747t00.pdf
I use them as woofers ( 4 per side ) in a rather exotic project.
I have them so i can post some measurements.
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/18wu-8747t00.pdf
I use them as woofers ( 4 per side ) in a rather exotic project.
I have them so i can post some measurements.
With all this discussion about the breakup mode I'm surprised that no one has mention the downfall of using such a driver. Point: Even if this peak is out of band and shunted into oblivion frequency wise, whenever a lower frequency transient crosses the wavelength of the break up it creates distortion in the audible band. TIM distortion.
I personally choose drivers that have an absolute minimum breakup for this reason. Think Lynn Olson chooses his the same. At least that was the reason why you can't build the Ariels today for the lack of suitable replacement drivers without horrid breakup.
Flipside of that coin finding what I was looking for, the driver choosen has a classic motor without faraday shielding, giving rise to all tall order harmonics. To solve that pickle 4 of my drivers will have the motors pole modified. Modeled in FEMM and to the machine shop down the street to have the pole piece made into a T with faraday shielding added.
Comments, thoughts?
I personally choose drivers that have an absolute minimum breakup for this reason. Think Lynn Olson chooses his the same. At least that was the reason why you can't build the Ariels today for the lack of suitable replacement drivers without horrid breakup.
Flipside of that coin finding what I was looking for, the driver choosen has a classic motor without faraday shielding, giving rise to all tall order harmonics. To solve that pickle 4 of my drivers will have the motors pole modified. Modeled in FEMM and to the machine shop down the street to have the pole piece made into a T with faraday shielding added.
Comments, thoughts?
Any comments on this diy design?
SEAS 5INCH
Especially the one with W15CY001, looks a lot like the $15K worth commercial product
SEAS 5INCH
Especially the one with W15CY001, looks a lot like the $15K worth commercial product
Never evaluated a speaker based on looks of an overpriced commercial product. Perhaps that's just me
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