The weight advantage of switched mode is very good.
Which DJ likes to lug around heavy amplifiers ?
However I still use a linear supply for reliability.
If the amp should fail with a SMPS then I would probably have to return it to get fixed.
With a linear supply it is much simpler and easier to fix.
Which DJ likes to lug around heavy amplifiers ?
However I still use a linear supply for reliability.
If the amp should fail with a SMPS then I would probably have to return it to get fixed.
With a linear supply it is much simpler and easier to fix.
There is something not right regarding the power output ratings/specs. You cant get more out than you put in.... no matter how effecient it is.
The UL max ac power draw under full load is shown on the rear panel near the volt and current ratings for fuse/cb etc. The iNu6000 doesnt draw from the ac line more than about 640W according to the rear panel data. So the output power cant be more than that divided by the number of audio channels.
Thx-RNMarsh
The UL max ac power draw under full load is shown on the rear panel near the volt and current ratings for fuse/cb etc. The iNu6000 doesnt draw from the ac line more than about 640W according to the rear panel data. So the output power cant be more than that divided by the number of audio channels.
Thx-RNMarsh
I believe it's the convention to rate pro audio power amps at some fraction of max continuous output, based on some level of music power.
Makes sense to me, since it's realistic though lots of people get their knickers in a twist over the fact that the amps can't deliver max power continuously for long periods of time.
Makes sense to me, since it's realistic though lots of people get their knickers in a twist over the fact that the amps can't deliver max power continuously for long periods of time.
Pleased that this thread is still active, I have some updates. For several weeks I have been using a no-fan NU6000. It works for the most part. Due to significant differences between the NU3000 and NU6000, the mod on the NU6000 is easiest (just unplug two fans on the PCB) and here is the major difference: the NU6000 MUST keep its cover off and MUST sit on its narrow side (L or R) for adequate passive cooling. My latest issue is random protects that MAY be due to dirty AC power. I find it unlikely that a heat issue would reset itself in just one or two seconds, as do the power hits. I don't have enough "data" yet, but I know that these type of amps have very odd AC power drawing characteristics. Does anyone know if they are unusually sensitive to the AC power? I think my shut-downs may be due to my home A/C kicking on but not enough observation yet. It is probably worth mentioning that I very rarely push this amp very hard, unusal to light more than the 1st LED.
What, if any, power supply mods can help such a case?
What, if any, power supply mods can help such a case?
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Interesting. I will be changing my 6000DSP to a non DSP version (going with a MiniDSP instead). Would be nice to run it fan-less.
Is it possible to add heatsinks to some extra warm spots?
Is it possible to add heatsinks to some extra warm spots?
I don't think you can add heatsinks to the NU6000. I did not disassemble it, but I am told the bottom of the chassis is the heatsink (and from feel, this is true). It is easy to try fanless, just be aware you may void your warranty doing the mod.
As for my mystery power-reset problem, it seems to have gone away. There were thunderstorms in the area Sunday and perhaps this was causing power spikes?
As for my mystery power-reset problem, it seems to have gone away. There were thunderstorms in the area Sunday and perhaps this was causing power spikes?
You should have no trouble trying fanless, just take off the top and unplug the two fan's at the PCB jumpers.
Oops, I spoke too soon! I am still getting resets, cause unknown. This is annoying, because I don't remember it being a problem for many days (weeks) of use. Other possibilities: because the unit is on the floor uncovered, perhaps dust has gotten under the PCB? I am trying to keep a log of how often it resets (from cold, warm start, etc.) to see if there is a pattern.
I too am a owner of the MiniDSP, and I look forward to hear how you use yours.
Oops, I spoke too soon! I am still getting resets, cause unknown. This is annoying, because I don't remember it being a problem for many days (weeks) of use. Other possibilities: because the unit is on the floor uncovered, perhaps dust has gotten under the PCB? I am trying to keep a log of how often it resets (from cold, warm start, etc.) to see if there is a pattern.
I too am a owner of the MiniDSP, and I look forward to hear how you use yours.
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Soldermizer,
Why not stop screwing around and risking the longevity of your amp and just get a couple of these?
SilenX EFX-08-12 Case Fan - Newegg.com
Why not stop screwing around and risking the longevity of your amp and just get a couple of these?
SilenX EFX-08-12 Case Fan - Newegg.com
Defeated by the shut downs for now...
I have called a truce with my increasingly frequent protect/reset issue with the NU6000. I have taken it off line and cleaned it out and will let it dry for a good while. I realize that not everyone will approve of rinsing out electronic gear. I am a man of many vices
It works. Most of the time.
In my case, "switching amp" means I swapped in one of the NU3000 in the meantime.
I have called a truce with my increasingly frequent protect/reset issue with the NU6000. I have taken it off line and cleaned it out and will let it dry for a good while. I realize that not everyone will approve of rinsing out electronic gear. I am a man of many vices
It works. Most of the time.
In my case, "switching amp" means I swapped in one of the NU3000 in the meantime.
OK Noah! Challenge accepted. i have ordered two of the fans you suggest.
Meanwhile, the amp survived its bath. I tried the fans in series mod but still too loud (rattles) for my taste.
Meanwhile, the amp survived its bath. I tried the fans in series mod but still too loud (rattles) for my taste.
Unable to resist the urge to tinker, I tried improvising some heat sinks (binder clips!) on the NU6000. Only a slight (15 minute) increase before it shuts down. Behringer's heat sinks are really a weird type -- I've seen nothing similar looking at electronic web sites (e.g. Digi-Key). With the stock fans running in series, I have had no shut downs with cover on or even off. The noise is less: instead of a hair dryer, it has the annoying quiet rattle of a 1980s era PC-XT clone 🙂
Until I discover otherwise, I hearby admit defeat in being able to run the NU6000 totally fanless. If you want no-fans, get yourself a NU3000 (and perhaps the NU1000 as well, but I have no experience in maladjusting one.)
Perhaps I can keep my mitts off until the new fans arrive. yes, and work on the term papers and study for the exams!
Next challenge: to find an adhesive that will actually keep one of the rubber pads of my laptop on. Hot glue -- nope. Contact cement -- nope. Next: expoxy.
Until I discover otherwise, I hearby admit defeat in being able to run the NU6000 totally fanless. If you want no-fans, get yourself a NU3000 (and perhaps the NU1000 as well, but I have no experience in maladjusting one.)
Perhaps I can keep my mitts off until the new fans arrive. yes, and work on the term papers and study for the exams!
Next challenge: to find an adhesive that will actually keep one of the rubber pads of my laptop on. Hot glue -- nope. Contact cement -- nope. Next: expoxy.
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Quiet as a mouse fart now...
The new fans (2x, the kind that Noah Katz recommended) arrived. I managed to installate them in my NU6000. It was already wired for series but one fan didn't spin, so I put them in parallel (12V) and they work now. Had to do some guess work as to which two of the three wire pigtails were the right polarity. Managed to avoid the blue smoke problem. Using the rubber mounts is beyond my patience/competence so I used the original bolts. Other than a dubious soldering, heat shrinking job, everything is working right now, and super quiet. There is less airflow, but only time will tell if I avoid the thermals.
In any event, thank you Noah for the fan recommendal, and at least sometimes, I heed the voice of reason, but only when other options have been exhausted 🙂
The new fans (2x, the kind that Noah Katz recommended) arrived. I managed to installate them in my NU6000. It was already wired for series but one fan didn't spin, so I put them in parallel (12V) and they work now. Had to do some guess work as to which two of the three wire pigtails were the right polarity. Managed to avoid the blue smoke problem. Using the rubber mounts is beyond my patience/competence so I used the original bolts. Other than a dubious soldering, heat shrinking job, everything is working right now, and super quiet. There is less airflow, but only time will tell if I avoid the thermals.
In any event, thank you Noah for the fan recommendal, and at least sometimes, I heed the voice of reason, but only when other options have been exhausted 🙂
I just returned my 6000DSP. Hoping to get the 6000 next week or the week after. No need to hurry anyways since my MiniDSP hasn't been shipping from Hongkong yet either.
Glad the fans worked out for you.
Perfect timing, my NU6000DSP just shipped - can you share what you learned so I don't have to figure it out myself?
thx
Perfect timing, my NU6000DSP just shipped - can you share what you learned so I don't have to figure it out myself?
thx
Assuming you would use the exact same fan models...even then, I can only give somewhat vague advice. Unscrew the stock fans. You will need the stock pigtails so cut them close to the old fans. I just tossed mine but you could of course save them. The only trial-and-error part is finding how to splice to the 3-conductor new fan leads. They don't seem to be marked. I had a spare 12 V battery to test with. Just make sure your airflow is in the right direction. Then make your connections and heat shrink or whatever to insulate. Screw in both fans, put cover on, screw down, and ready to go.
I believe all computer fans use the same color convention, so all I wanted to know is what color 6000 wire connects to what color fan wire
No doubt, but it goes to a molded connector. The wires themselves are just like Henry Ford said of his Model T...any color you like, as long as it's black. I would like to know why some fans need 3 (or 4) conductors.
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