Behringer DCX2496 digital X-over

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#3,701
AndrewT said:
Your Sendler link takes me to post3681.
I tried searching the Sendler posts but can't identify which ribbon advice There are 8 Sendler posts mentioning ribbon..
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baMarek said:
Sorry, I thought it was taking you to page 294, precisely post #2935. Here is what he wrote about the ribbon cable:

"The ribbon wires between the digital and output boards are cut to get the audio signal before being polluted by any cheap coupling caps,balanced to single ended conversions, active filters and single ended back to balanced conversions with servo shifting output. This eliminates a series of 4 opamps and countless capacitors and resistors which yields unbelievable sonics with a slight loss of gain. If you want to try it yourself, the wires that you need starting from the red are 3-14 for the outputs from 6- to 1+ in that order. Note that counting from the red is the opposite to the way the wires are numbered on the schematic."
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Thanks fellas 🙂 I found it.

My remaining question is, do you think it'd be better to try and take 6 return signals out of the ribbon cable so they can be twisted, or just run them all together with a strap along the connectors and land it on one of them?

Edit: Or option 3, I guess, leave the returns where they are and only snip the signal +. In that case, should I bridge signal - and G at the xlr connector?
 
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#3,703
DrDyna said:
Thanks fellas 🙂 I found it.

My remaining question is, do you think it'd be better to try and take 6 return signals out of the ribbon cable so they can be twisted, or just run them all together with a strap along the connectors and land it on one of them?

Edit: Or option 3, I guess, leave the returns where they are and only snip the signal +. In that case, should I bridge signal - and G at the xlr connector?
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Check this old good French website: passive output stage for Behringer DCX2496

I separated all 12 wires and attached stickers with numbers corresponding to the channels to each of them, eg. 6+. It can get confusing if you don't do it. Then I cut the positive and negative legs at the back of XLR leaving GND as is (mind you, I did not remove the board). If you go RCA then you need only one signal but if I'm correct you still need to cut both + and - wires for DCX to behave "normally". I use XLR to RCA adapters and although not ideal they work for me.
 
#3,704
The ribbon cable is pretty easy to splice into. I've done this on several DCX. Route the DAC chip outputs to whatever flavor output stage you like. Just be aware that the outputs are differential and have a small DC bias.

I've always used 1:1 or 1:2 transformers for the outputs and have been very happy with the results.
 
#3,706
baMarek said:
Check this old good French website: passive output stage for Behringer DCX2496

I separated all 12 wires and attached stickers with numbers corresponding to the channels to each of them, eg. 6+. It can get confusing if you don't do it. Then I cut the positive and negative legs at the back of XLR leaving GND as is (mind you, I did not remove the board). If you go RCA then you need only one signal but if I'm correct you still need to cut both + and - wires for DCX to behave "normally". I use XLR to RCA adapters and although not ideal they work for me.
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Yeah, that's the website I was using in the beginning, but after you get past page 4 (I think) they're all 404 errors. I have the board made as his is made, with the offset blocking caps and the LPF, I think he said 70ish khz.

Pano said:
The ribbon cable is pretty easy to splice into. I've done this on several DCX. Route the DAC chip outputs to whatever flavor output stage you like. Just be aware that the outputs are differential and have a small DC bias.

I've always used 1:1 or 1:2 transformers for the outputs and have been very happy with the results.
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I thought about transformers, too. I decided to try this first, as I had most of the parts hanging around, anyway.

Thanks for all the pointers, fellas 🙂
 
#3,708
USB to SPDIF

Foxx510 said:
I had good luck with a modded ebay Tenor TE7022 board, after slight modification to the voltage divider on the spdif output to make it run at logic levels. The DCX will run at normal SPDIF levels, but seems far more stable with a higher voltage.
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Thanks for the reply Foxx,

Do you think this might do the trick.. It would be helpful if you share the product link that you are using.

Regards
Harsha
 
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#3,709
har297 said:
Thanks for the reply Foxx,

Do you think this might do the trick.. It would be helpful if you share the product link that you are using.

Regards
Harsha
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I tried a modified version of that board but it wasn't stable. The one I used was this one Aliexpress.com : Buy LJM Assembled USB to (coaxial ) SPDIF I2S processor TE7022 chip support 24bit/96K sampling from Reliable usb stock suppliers on Hifi-Store | Alibaba Group but from an ebay seller. I can't find any of those boards on ebay now. I could not use this board though in the end as it generated interference on my USB TV tuner.

Soon I am going to try an SPDIF-AES/EBU converter board from jims audio. I will fit a toslink receiver and feed the AES/EBU level signal to the DCX.
 
#3,714
Hello everybody,

if you think I'd better open a new thread tell me. well, i wanted to try the freerider-mod of the digital input stage (to get rid of the dull-sound problem). i think i nearly got it, untill i tried to unsolder and lift pin 18 on IC1 on the main board. i unfortunatly managed to remove the copper from the pcb as well - big problem.
does anybody know where the signal appears again on the dcx' main pcb, so that i could attach the output of the new input stage to that? other suggestions?

keen for any help,
lorenz
 
#3,715
so btw i solved it... i removed the CS8420 using dremel an unsoldering the remaining feet. i think this gives very little stress on the pcb, only thing to take care of is the metal particels flying around.
pin 18 is connected under the ic, there i could, using a screwdriver, make some copper accessible and solder the wire on to it.... so yep. works now!
now i have a few more freerider-pcbs for sale, parts can all be ordered on mouser... 😉
 
#3,717
New One With Latest Build/Firmware?

My 2496 just futzed our on me. It was probably 5 years old or so. I want to just replace it for now with another DCX2496 Ultradrive Pro.
How can I make sure that I am getting the latest build type, or series, and/or the one with the latest firmware etc.?
I want to be able to ask the sales people about this, and have it make sense. Is there a number on the box that they can check or something?
Any help would be appreciated.
 
#3,719
DaveThreshold said:
My 2496 just futzed our on me. It was probably 5 years old or so. I want to just replace it for now with another DCX2496 Ultradrive Pro.
How can I make sure that I am getting the latest build type, or series, and/or the one with the latest firmware etc.?
I want to be able to ask the sales people about this, and have it make sense. Is there a number on the box that they can check or something?
Any help would be appreciated.
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---------------
The units I have are about 5 & 10 years old. At the time you could download the newer firmware. BTW, sometimes the newer firmware was only for the units that had newer components (chip sets).
 
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