Hi Michael,
here are two links which might help you:
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...EWA:PIC&viewitem=&item=280059698251&rd=1&rd=1
http://www.digikey.com/
Frank
here are two links which might help you:
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...EWA:PIC&viewitem=&item=280059698251&rd=1&rd=1
http://www.digikey.com/
Frank
How large is this PCB? I buy all mine from www.olimex.com , they have a standar Eurocard (100 x 160 mm ) price of around 32 $, double sided, solder mask, tinned, component silk screen. They will panelize/cut for free if required. Airmail in Europe 6 Euros.
Jan Didden
Jan Didden
Hi Michael,
made some mods in my user profile. I'm not sure whether you can see an Email button at the end of the post now. Can't see yours too.
Test
Frank
made some mods in my user profile. I'm not sure whether you can see an Email button at the end of the post now. Can't see yours too.
Test
Frank
Hi Frank
you have to check "NO" on "Hide Email Address?"
At least for my profile it worked, please try now...
Greetings
Michael
you have to check "NO" on "Hide Email Address?"
At least for my profile it worked, please try now...
Greetings
Michael
As a matter of fact A SRC2496 wont help! I tried the DEQ2496 with the M-1000 at 96khz sounds fine and I tried the DCX2496 with the M-1000 SOUNDS FINE!It is when I connect the DEQ2496 between the M-1000 and the DCX2496 I get the cracling sound.
does this mean that both pin2 an pin 27 is high?
Can I stil use M-1000 as a SRC then?
How?
Here it´s suggested that I use the 8420 as a single SPDIF input,would this help to this problem?
http://www.dcx2496.fr/en/cadre_en.htm
Does it make any sense to use a SPDIF to AES/EBU converter between
DQE and DCX?Doesnt DQE have AES/EBU out?
What do you guys think?
Hi Ryssen,
I havn't done the 74HC002 mod so far so I can't tell you for sure whether it all works but it should and I will do so as soon as I have gotten a HC002.
1. step: use by CS8420 recovered clocks instead of DCX clocks (for DSP and DACs). This is only possible with a 96 kHz S/PDIF source. How to do? 1. gate: RELDIG+RELDIG=/RELDIG (inverter), 2. gate: RELDIG+CLK24=Aclk, 3. gate: /RELDIG+RMCK=Dclk, 4. gate: Aclk+Dclk=IC19A, pin51 via 22ohm (former CLK24, lift pin or cut wire!)
Test 1: a, analog input mode should still work (no change). b, digital input at 96kHz should work too (44.1 and 48 kHz won't work any more).
2. step: switch off 'sample rate converter' within CS8420 (mode 1 --> mode 5): Lift pin 2 and 27 (DGND) and connect them with pin 24 (+5V).
Test 2: digital input (96kHz) should still work and it should sound better now.
The S/PDIF (AES/EBU) mod is only necessary if you use low amplitude S/PDIF source which sometimes causes dropouts.
Good luck,
Frank
I havn't done the 74HC002 mod so far so I can't tell you for sure whether it all works but it should and I will do so as soon as I have gotten a HC002.
1. step: use by CS8420 recovered clocks instead of DCX clocks (for DSP and DACs). This is only possible with a 96 kHz S/PDIF source. How to do? 1. gate: RELDIG+RELDIG=/RELDIG (inverter), 2. gate: RELDIG+CLK24=Aclk, 3. gate: /RELDIG+RMCK=Dclk, 4. gate: Aclk+Dclk=IC19A, pin51 via 22ohm (former CLK24, lift pin or cut wire!)
Test 1: a, analog input mode should still work (no change). b, digital input at 96kHz should work too (44.1 and 48 kHz won't work any more).
2. step: switch off 'sample rate converter' within CS8420 (mode 1 --> mode 5): Lift pin 2 and 27 (DGND) and connect them with pin 24 (+5V).
Test 2: digital input (96kHz) should still work and it should sound better now.
The S/PDIF (AES/EBU) mod is only necessary if you use low amplitude S/PDIF source which sometimes causes dropouts.
Good luck,
Frank
Ryssen said:
Ryssen - My guess is that you already have tryed this, but...
Ref DEQ manual Fig 3.21 page 13 the following parameter tweeks the digital out format.
DEQ 'I/O' key screen '2'
Dither 'Off. 24 , 20 ,16 bit'
'A' key select between S/PDIF - AES/EBU
'B' key - NOISE SHAPER reduces dither-induced noise
Any change in the crackling sound when you adjust any of these parameters on the DEQ?
Tried to put a part list together:
5 100 uF, 16V radial low ESR
10 100 nF 0805
2 1000 pF 0805
1 22 nF 0805
2 3k 0805
9 47k 0805
1 1k ? LED
1 R33
1 oscillator 28 MHz
1 ferrite bead ? 330uH, 1ohm
? 10uH, 0.5ohm
? 1uH, 0.16ohm
2 LM 2939 3.3V TO92
1 AD1896 SO
1 CS8416 SO
1 20-pin flatcable connector
1 3-pin
1 jumper
I'm not sure with the ferrite bead which value would be best.
There is also a semiconductor part (TO92) between a screw and a 3001 resistor (0805) which can't be seen on the circuit. Can sombody look into the gerber files to find out what's the function of this part?
Frank
5 100 uF, 16V radial low ESR
10 100 nF 0805
2 1000 pF 0805
1 22 nF 0805
2 3k 0805
9 47k 0805
1 1k ? LED
1 R33
1 oscillator 28 MHz
1 ferrite bead ? 330uH, 1ohm
? 10uH, 0.5ohm
? 1uH, 0.16ohm
2 LM 2939 3.3V TO92
1 AD1896 SO
1 CS8416 SO
1 20-pin flatcable connector
1 3-pin
1 jumper
I'm not sure with the ferrite bead which value would be best.
There is also a semiconductor part (TO92) between a screw and a 3001 resistor (0805) which can't be seen on the circuit. Can sombody look into the gerber files to find out what's the function of this part?
Frank
The crackling sound has according to my experience to do with the output conectors. In my case - a sharp "wiggle" of them cured the problems for a few days.
I have another now with no issues at all - dead quiet at 0 signal.
I have another now with no issues at all - dead quiet at 0 signal.
Well,not in my case..😀 😉
At -20 theres no crackle -30 starts.. -40 -50 ohh my God!Seems to get worse the longer the DCX stays on.I´m gonna have to fix this before I do any modding on it..
At -20 theres no crackle -30 starts.. -40 -50 ohh my God!Seems to get worse the longer the DCX stays on.I´m gonna have to fix this before I do any modding on it..
crackling
I had a crackling issue also but it went away when I installed the audiophonics output board with insulating tape underneath the board so the solder pins could not touch the casing.
Philip
I had a crackling issue also but it went away when I installed the audiophonics output board with insulating tape underneath the board so the solder pins could not touch the casing.
Philip
Identify if the cracking is mechanical or electrical.
In my case, the DCX crackling was a bad ribbon cable inside
the DCX. If I open up the DCX and play music while touching
the cable, it would make aweful noise, this allowed to me to identify
which cable.
To fix this. I removed the ribbon cable and cut off the connector.
I re-crimped the same connector on the freshly cut end of the ribbon
cable. Problem never came back, it's fixed.
M1000 to DCX;
If my M1000 clock source selector and sampling frequency is
not in the correct setting I get crackling.
In my case, the DCX crackling was a bad ribbon cable inside
the DCX. If I open up the DCX and play music while touching
the cable, it would make aweful noise, this allowed to me to identify
which cable.
To fix this. I removed the ribbon cable and cut off the connector.
I re-crimped the same connector on the freshly cut end of the ribbon
cable. Problem never came back, it's fixed.
M1000 to DCX;
If my M1000 clock source selector and sampling frequency is
not in the correct setting I get crackling.
It is electrical,the ribbon cable is fixed alreadey!
Jut found out that it crackels with the M-1000 if the level goes higher than -10,same as if its connected after the DEQ2496.So it is a level problem at 96khz,at 44.1 khz i can go way beond the redlight.Why I use 96khz,well it sound BETTER when it sounds,at to low level..😎 🙂
The DEQ2496 does not crackle!!So there must be a fix for this!
Edit:Anyone heard anything about the new outputboard at Selctronic?
Jut found out that it crackels with the M-1000 if the level goes higher than -10,same as if its connected after the DEQ2496.So it is a level problem at 96khz,at 44.1 khz i can go way beond the redlight.Why I use 96khz,well it sound BETTER when it sounds,at to low level..😎 🙂
The DEQ2496 does not crackle!!So there must be a fix for this!
Edit:Anyone heard anything about the new outputboard at Selctronic?