The point here is in order to smooth the overall low end response, you need additional sources of low end placed around the room………changing the existing drivers in the same location won’t do much if anything………….your treating the room in my use case.
The pair of Dayton 225p‘s will get the job done as long as you respect the drivers limitations.…….you’ll have to build them as ported systems……they won’t do it sealed with their limited excursion and suspension. About 35 liters tuned to 40hz should do it. I would down fire them and take advantage of the floor boundary gain for lower in room response.
I’m currently using the 11” metal Blanda bowl as a mold for casting clear epoxy over carbon fiber spheres to house the KEF Uni Q drivers from the 150 speakers. These will sit above two 10” woofers per side.
The pair of Dayton 225p‘s will get the job done as long as you respect the drivers limitations.…….you’ll have to build them as ported systems……they won’t do it sealed with their limited excursion and suspension. About 35 liters tuned to 40hz should do it. I would down fire them and take advantage of the floor boundary gain for lower in room response.
I’m currently using the 11” metal Blanda bowl as a mold for casting clear epoxy over carbon fiber spheres to house the KEF Uni Q drivers from the 150 speakers. These will sit above two 10” woofers per side.
Hi, I got it now, sorry at first I misunderstood the point. Yes, I will try this, already have boxes for 8" drivers so when they are finished Ill try at low level at leastThe point here is in order to smooth the overall low end response, you need additional sources of low end placed around the room………changing the existing drivers in the same location won’t do much if anything………….your treating the room in my use case
This sounds excellent! Looking forward to see it when its done!I’m currently using the 11” metal Blanda bowl as a mold for casting clear epoxy over carbon fiber spheres to house the KEF Uni Q drivers from the 150 speakers. These will sit above two 10” woofers per side.
Left over metal blanda bowl is excellent to bi filled with ice and few bottles of prosecco in that ice, just to smooth the testing of new speakers 🙂
@kevinkr , you obviously dug out Behringer DCX inside out, I need your help!
There is phase issue, and I checked cables, drivers, amps... all is ok.
Just now I took DCX on the bench, connected low pass and high pass outputs to USB interface and scoped both outputs in parallel on REW.
Horror, they are completely out of phase directly from DCX. Here is picture exactly on XO frequency (1st order filter) but it is not in phase nowhere in the 20-20khz spectrum. This is somewhat crazy, I took DCX for granted that it will perform, 1st order filter should be in phase, I was sure in that part.....
Here are 2 signals, low pass and high pass at 1st order XO directly from Behringer, please let me know what is this?
There is phase issue, and I checked cables, drivers, amps... all is ok.
Just now I took DCX on the bench, connected low pass and high pass outputs to USB interface and scoped both outputs in parallel on REW.
Horror, they are completely out of phase directly from DCX. Here is picture exactly on XO frequency (1st order filter) but it is not in phase nowhere in the 20-20khz spectrum. This is somewhat crazy, I took DCX for granted that it will perform, 1st order filter should be in phase, I was sure in that part.....
Here are 2 signals, low pass and high pass at 1st order XO directly from Behringer, please let me know what is this?
PS, forgot to mentioned, I checked that all outputs phases are at 0 deg, EQ,s switched off. Only thing that is on is 6db but XO for low and high pass on the same frequency of 410 Hz
Depending on the frequency at which you observe, 1st order filters have a phase shift, like any other.
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Picture is on XO frequency, sure there is phase shift in absolute terms, but if Im not completely mad, 2 signals should be in phase relatively to each other..?Depending on the frequency at which you observe, 1st order filters have a phase shift, like any other.
My mistake. For a low-pass filter the phase shift is -45° and for a high-pass filter the phase shift is +45° at crossing.
Thanks Nixie,
Post #43 I wrote above must be worst one I ever wrote.... I beg everyone to disregard.
Sure that's normal, 90deg, I must have be very confused when writing that 🥴...
Post #43 I wrote above must be worst one I ever wrote.... I beg everyone to disregard.
Sure that's normal, 90deg, I must have be very confused when writing that 🥴...
Hi Nixie, what I wrote above was complete nonsense, sorry for that, my mistake.
Dcx actually behaves very much like classic active XO with opamps, but with many more possibilities to adjust and it's perfect in response. It's actually fantastic cheap (ish) product.
It needs to have spdif input, and 6 channel volume control must be solved somehow. Many other improvements are possible to make it thtuth hi end machine, see Kevin's posts.
Dcx actually behaves very much like classic active XO with opamps, but with many more possibilities to adjust and it's perfect in response. It's actually fantastic cheap (ish) product.
It needs to have spdif input, and 6 channel volume control must be solved somehow. Many other improvements are possible to make it thtuth hi end machine, see Kevin's posts.
Well, I made a quick mistake too, one impedance is capacitive and the other inductive. 🙄At the crossover frequency they should be in phase (-45deg both).
Small update, Finally I figured it will be necessary to take one speaker out in open space and continue, so far I was measuring room and the speaker, need to take one challenge at the time. Also I need to figure adjustable holder for the Eye so I can play with position of 2 drivers. When rain stops and I'm done with that, I'll report.
In the meantime I could not find satisfying PBC layout for classic LR active crossover, so I made one. It is modular and as many as needed blocks can be copy pasted to achieve almost any XO configuration. Here is PCB picture, think its good but comments are welcome. If anyone wants it I will publish KiCad file and explanation for convenience.
In the meantime I could not find satisfying PBC layout for classic LR active crossover, so I made one. It is modular and as many as needed blocks can be copy pasted to achieve almost any XO configuration. Here is PCB picture, think its good but comments are welcome. If anyone wants it I will publish KiCad file and explanation for convenience.
Finally I did what was supposed to be done at beginning of speakers measurement; took them out to the garden. Last night youngster neighbor who is very enthusiastic about audio helped me to carry one speaker and the rest out. Win Win, he helped me with lifting, I showed him some technology and explained, could be a beginning of beautiful friendship (Casablanca) . 6 pack of beers went into empty glass, we finished around midnight 🙂
The measurements of speakers now make full sense, I was testing this in room in the winter and had horrible peaks and dips. Now finally here is speaker much better represented:
Comparing this (free space outdoor) with what I had before (posted earlier in this thread) in room measurements, 2 different worlds.
There is room for improvement but that is easy, X-O is active 1st order at 410Hz, i just need to elevate bass level a bit and apply very gentle filter to HF , if needed at all as this is on axis response, off axis B80 as 3,5 " driver drops dramatically, so just angling speaker a bit does it. We wil see later.
Comparing this (free space outdoor) with what I had before (posted earlier in this thread) in room measurements, 2 different worlds.
There is room for improvement but that is easy, X-O is active 1st order at 410Hz, i just need to elevate bass level a bit and apply very gentle filter to HF , if needed at all as this is on axis response, off axis B80 as 3,5 " driver drops dramatically, so just angling speaker a bit does it. We wil see later.
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