When you place a normal speaker against the wall you have 2phi, when you place it on the floor against the wall you have 1phi. When you place it in a corner you will have 0,5phi.
It will bee the same as with a horn, i am talking low frequency because that's radiates normally 4phi. And it can't when placed in a corner.
maybe a idea to test the results with a mls measurement in the four positions.
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well, yeah
no surface is 4pi, and is halfed with every surface 'added'
I remember a while ago, someone posted measurements in a subwoofer thread
it showed all sorts of nasty dips and peaks
room gain seems totally unpredictable
but ofcourse, there will be room gain, of some kind
its just not a straight forward affair
I suppose predicting the 'Pi load' of a horn mouth is a bit more reliable
that is if the design is effective in using the chosen Pi load
but a different matter
If you can achieve 35-40hz, its still very good, considering the high efficiency
many horn builders would be happy with that
tinitus, that eighth/quarter/half thing is about SPL in bass, not linearity. Google for a program called CARA, input your livingroom plus all the furniture and have fun.
That is a smart one I like that wil only do midrange look at 1/4 phi length horn.
Here again the 1phi 133liter tractrix option with the monacor 76euro woofer. With filter added the response will be flat up to 400Hz.
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tinitus, at wavelengths above the size of the box it´s of no concern whether the horn mouth is upwards/sideways/whatsoever.
With mine simulated horn it would be smart to make it a triangle shape like the klipsch.
Then it can use room gain as good as it can get placed to a side all or in a corner.
The simulated response is calculating with the BR opening direct under the front horn.
Then it can use room gain as good as it can get placed to a side all or in a corner.
The simulated response is calculating with the BR opening direct under the front horn.
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some details missing in my drawing
I will try and show with pictures during build process
its actually folded one time
so total length is about twice the mouth length
if you calculate with the curves, each side of the speaker has a horn that measures 450mm x 700mm x 800mm long
as there's two per speaker that means a mouth area of 900 x 700mm x 800mm length
hey Pit
it matters if you place the horn close up against back wall
then you have both floor and wall
that should be 1pi, effectively
with most other horns, only placing close to side wall will give you that
Corner load would take it to the next Pi level, yes
but genuine corner load has several other issues tha I dont like too much
hey, Helmuth, I will do my best to not 'mess' or hijack your thread, promisse
what you see is horn mouth
there will be 4 throaths, one each corner, symmetrically
This is an effort to get big horn mouth, and still with a box only 500mm deep, but quite wide at 800mm
btw, I use a 15" woofer, with highish Qts
not quite sure yet what that will do
whatever, here's what I have managed so far
bloddy hell, I glued some yesterday
but forgot how cold my 'workshop' really is
so today it just fell apart, like nothing
and I had to redo it all today
what you see is horn mouth
there will be 4 throaths, one each corner, symmetrically
This is an effort to get big horn mouth, and still with a box only 500mm deep, but quite wide at 800mm
btw, I use a 15" woofer, with highish Qts
not quite sure yet what that will do
whatever, here's what I have managed so far
bloddy hell, I glued some yesterday
but forgot how cold my 'workshop' really is
so today it just fell apart, like nothing
and I had to redo it all today
Attachments
hey, Helmuth, are you making 'saw dust' ?
Often I do, at the moment i am simulating speakers and dreaming about a kt66 PSE tube amp project.
I made august last year a 2 way loudspeaker that sounds very good I managed with this one to have low bass-colour I like it plays down to 30Hz and average sound level 92dB.
There is always something to complain the midrange can be cleaner by this one. But that is the result after 10 years listening to the visaton TI100 that is a toplevel clean midrange.
With the new finished class D ucd180 amp, the stage can with good recordings even a bit for the front of the speaker and above at the same time very spacious I like that, only midrange shout be cleaner. It is also what kind of color speaker one likes the tone is warm.
I was dreaming of a SE 6c45
Then I exported it to 'Multiamp' Level 3
Quite astonishing the view of 5 black boxes per side ( 3 formers + chokes)
for total pwer ...Naahhhh
I'll stick to the present ,past and hopefully
Nahhhh...😀
When you go through this threat I posted it as a idea for people who like high efficiency sub for SE.
And I already posted you a answer, where I reacted on a same question of you.
Here the THD of my 2 way. It is already chanced again but it gives a impression.
Attachments
Helmuth, KT66... EL34 do the same job and are wonderfully underpriced.
They fit into the same socket but are "the tubes the stupid Deutschers had in their steam radios" - and nowadays made in St.Petersburg, they are cheap.
They fit into the same socket but are "the tubes the stupid Deutschers had in their steam radios" - and nowadays made in St.Petersburg, they are cheap.
I am a spoiled guy and have bougth a yaqin mc10l P-P, second hand 2 years ago a.Helmuth, KT66... EL34 do the same job and are wonderfully underpriced.
They fit into the same socket but are "the tubes the stupid Deutschers had in their steam radios" - and nowadays made in St.Petersburg, they are cheap.
With a set JJ kt77 nice clean sound controlled low.
And later I tried a set JJ EL34 warmer les detailed in comparison to KT77. I have to say the class-d is better then the yaqin.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now I go for SE with choke in powersupply. SE is the real tube thing to many and power-supply has influence on the sound, so lets explore that. And I want to design it my self.
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Megawatts are nice on paper if you want to sell the amp - SE is nice if you want an amp because you like music. (SE EL84, and no, I won´t sell it)
Did anyone ever build these?
Is this the final product you have talked about in this thread Helmut?
The middle picture looks like something I could easily fit in my living room.
-6db at 30hz is more than enough for me. That means I could use this design without a sub. PERFECTO Now how high did you say this thing could go to?
Has anyone tried the RADIAN 760 or Faital Pro HF200 down to 500hz?
SO far I will have to wait a few more months before building anything but I would love to build something like this middle picture. I think I would use the Beyma 15" driver possibly and the Faital Pro or Radian.
Always difficult knowing if something will achieve the pants flapping mid bass I like. I am not saying I want a huge hump in freq. response but if there is a very forceful tactile explosion of sound I would like to feel it instead of just hearing it.
Helmut in your middle pic what is the width dimensions of your cabinet?
Is this the final product you have talked about in this thread Helmut?
The middle picture looks like something I could easily fit in my living room.
-6db at 30hz is more than enough for me. That means I could use this design without a sub. PERFECTO Now how high did you say this thing could go to?
Has anyone tried the RADIAN 760 or Faital Pro HF200 down to 500hz?
SO far I will have to wait a few more months before building anything but I would love to build something like this middle picture. I think I would use the Beyma 15" driver possibly and the Faital Pro or Radian.
Always difficult knowing if something will achieve the pants flapping mid bass I like. I am not saying I want a huge hump in freq. response but if there is a very forceful tactile explosion of sound I would like to feel it instead of just hearing it.
Helmut in your middle pic what is the width dimensions of your cabinet?
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