oh yes , just go with them , even if I slightly prefer J271 to J270 , at least by data (Yfs, Idss etc.)
frankly , I couldn't hear difference in Babelfish J - J271 vs. 2SJ74BL
though , we all know that I spent substantial time with elephants , and I didn't made side by side comparison
but , pleasure is certainly guaranteed when you successfully cheat all odds
one thing more - I remember realizing that J309 and J310 are the same thing , just different Idss range...... so I chose 309 as more convenient for my needs (310 being sky high with max Idss)
same applies for J270 and J271 , and I chose J271 (J270 being sissy low with min Idss)
so , if you buy J270 , buy , dunno, at least 50pcs , test them at 9-12V for Idss and for Aleph J use these with Idss of at least 7-8-9mA
frankly , I couldn't hear difference in Babelfish J - J271 vs. 2SJ74BL
though , we all know that I spent substantial time with elephants , and I didn't made side by side comparison
but , pleasure is certainly guaranteed when you successfully cheat all odds

one thing more - I remember realizing that J309 and J310 are the same thing , just different Idss range...... so I chose 309 as more convenient for my needs (310 being sky high with max Idss)
same applies for J270 and J271 , and I chose J271 (J270 being sissy low with min Idss)
so , if you buy J270 , buy , dunno, at least 50pcs , test them at 9-12V for Idss and for Aleph J use these with Idss of at least 7-8-9mA
if you're not picky , able to wrestle with some adapter pcbs and SOT-23 case , look at these ...... price is peanuts :
MMBFJ271 ON Semiconductor / Fairchild | Mouser
MMBFJ270 ON Semiconductor / Fairchild | Mouser
as always with tiny cases - keeping an eye on dissipation is a must ; easily solvable with some cascoding , of course - look at Babelfish J schematic , same as here (this thread ) , where I blindly applied same logic
MMBFJ271 ON Semiconductor / Fairchild | Mouser
MMBFJ270 ON Semiconductor / Fairchild | Mouser
as always with tiny cases - keeping an eye on dissipation is a must ; easily solvable with some cascoding , of course - look at Babelfish J schematic , same as here (this thread ) , where I blindly applied same logic
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Great info, thanks.
I made a buffer for a DAC (with your help 🙂 ) with some BF862 and adapters.
It's a bit of work, but all seemed to work after soldering. 🙂
able to wrestle with some adapter pcbs and SOT-23 case , look at these ...
I made a buffer for a DAC (with your help 🙂 ) with some BF862 and adapters.
It's a bit of work, but all seemed to work after soldering. 🙂
Hi Zen Mod,
I sent you am email but forget about it. The most important info I would need was for the electrolytic capacitors for the I/S. Minimum voltage and best use type?
C1 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C3 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C4 is 7pF OK?, Silver Mica preferably?
C5 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C6 low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C7 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C8 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C9 is 7pF OK?, Silver Mica preferably?
C11 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C12 low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
I'm pretty sure all resistors are 1/4W min rated, otherwise stated?
Q4 and Q10 ideal Idss (Can't remember if they've been substituted by J271 in my set)
Those Shinkoh resistor values are not easy to find, I'll try and find a good source.
- Looks like the schematics calls for parallel resistors (ex : R8, R9), correct?
- So if this is the case, you have one Shinkoh on top and a regular resistor on the bottom of the PCB?
- That second resistor in parallel has to be 2W or 1/4W is ok?
ZD1 and ZD2 are 7.5V Zeners?
Thanks for everything! 🙂
Do
I sent you am email but forget about it. The most important info I would need was for the electrolytic capacitors for the I/S. Minimum voltage and best use type?
C1 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C3 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C4 is 7pF OK?, Silver Mica preferably?
C5 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C6 low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C7 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C8 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C9 is 7pF OK?, Silver Mica preferably?
C11 35V? low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
C12 low ESR, High ripple, audio grade, general purpose?
I'm pretty sure all resistors are 1/4W min rated, otherwise stated?
Q4 and Q10 ideal Idss (Can't remember if they've been substituted by J271 in my set)
Those Shinkoh resistor values are not easy to find, I'll try and find a good source.
- Looks like the schematics calls for parallel resistors (ex : R8, R9), correct?
- So if this is the case, you have one Shinkoh on top and a regular resistor on the bottom of the PCB?
- That second resistor in parallel has to be 2W or 1/4W is ok?
ZD1 and ZD2 are 7.5V Zeners?
Thanks for everything! 🙂
Do
be patient with me 🙂
struggling to tie zillion ends , some of it left even before I did leave for a week
now when I'm back , I'm trying to sort all that ....... e-mails not being easiest
lemme see...... - resistors in parallel - it's either Shinkoh or plain MF , not two of them in parallel
take a good look at my blog , FE pics and you'll see it
precisely , use either :
- R11 or R12
- R13 or R14
- R15 or R16
- R17 or R20
- R46 or R47
- R21 or R22
- R25 or R27
- R37 or R38
- R43 or R44
my personal impression is that Shinkoh or whatever are not worthy of hassle
C1- even 16V is enough , same for C11 , good quality ..... you choose your fave poison ; Elna , dunno which series but 125C , so certainly pro quality - that's my choice
C3,C8 - same as above , but 35V for better sleep
C4,C9 - good quality , anything from 4p7 to 10pF will do ...... either Mica or - as I'm using those tiny NPO smd , making my own legs on them
C5- 16V is enough , no mumbo jumbo needed - generic brand name quality
C6 - same as previous for type , but as written on schm - use 35V and upwards ...... 50V ideal
C7 -higher than rail voltage , generic brand name quality
C12 , data written on sch, generic brand name quality
all resistors are regular MF , which are in fact 600mW
except , obviously, all source resistors in OS , which are 3W MOX
also , it's clever to use 1W or 2W small MOX for R10,R4,R51,R60
Q4 and Q10 , ideal Idss above 6mA , because they're biased to some 5mA ; use either J271 or 2SK170BL , no difference to my old fart's ears
ZD1 and ZD2 , yeah , 7V5 - whatever you have - anything up from 500mW will do the job
struggling to tie zillion ends , some of it left even before I did leave for a week
now when I'm back , I'm trying to sort all that ....... e-mails not being easiest
lemme see...... - resistors in parallel - it's either Shinkoh or plain MF , not two of them in parallel
take a good look at my blog , FE pics and you'll see it
precisely , use either :
- R11 or R12
- R13 or R14
- R15 or R16
- R17 or R20
- R46 or R47
- R21 or R22
- R25 or R27
- R37 or R38
- R43 or R44
my personal impression is that Shinkoh or whatever are not worthy of hassle
C1- even 16V is enough , same for C11 , good quality ..... you choose your fave poison ; Elna , dunno which series but 125C , so certainly pro quality - that's my choice
C3,C8 - same as above , but 35V for better sleep
C4,C9 - good quality , anything from 4p7 to 10pF will do ...... either Mica or - as I'm using those tiny NPO smd , making my own legs on them

C5- 16V is enough , no mumbo jumbo needed - generic brand name quality
C6 - same as previous for type , but as written on schm - use 35V and upwards ...... 50V ideal
C7 -higher than rail voltage , generic brand name quality
C12 , data written on sch, generic brand name quality
all resistors are regular MF , which are in fact 600mW
except , obviously, all source resistors in OS , which are 3W MOX
also , it's clever to use 1W or 2W small MOX for R10,R4,R51,R60
Q4 and Q10 , ideal Idss above 6mA , because they're biased to some 5mA ; use either J271 or 2SK170BL , no difference to my old fart's ears
ZD1 and ZD2 , yeah , 7V5 - whatever you have - anything up from 500mW will do the job
Oh... and on the O/S, D1 to D4, BZX90 is a 9V Zener? 500mW? Sorry, can't seem to find this at Mouser or Digikey and Little diode returns it is a 6.5V Zener...?
Thanks Zen for all your help, it is really appreciated!
Do
Thanks Zen for all your help, it is really appreciated!
Do
you can omit those zenners in OS , already having two of these in FE
however , nothing wrong if you put 9V1 there , no need for more than 500mW
however , nothing wrong if you put 9V1 there , no need for more than 500mW
Hi Zen,
Since I'm placing orders for all parts, I was wondering which resistor type would be ideal for best noise figure on the O/S for Source resistors.
Pricing is not an issue at all so here's the two I'm thinking of :
Vishay CPF31R5000FKE14 metal film 3W 1% 100ppm
CPF31R5000FKE14 Vishay / Dale | Mouser Canada
or
Panasonic ERX-3SJ1R5 metal film 3W 5% 300ppm
ERX-3SJ1R5 Panasonic | Mouser Canada
or
TE Connectivity MOX 3W 5% 350ppm
ROX3SJ1R5 TE Connectivity / Neohm | Mouser Canada
I kinda prefer the Vishay for the best specs, the other ones are 5% and 300+ppm...
For the 40x 180R (20 per O/S PCB), can I use 178R or 182R instead of 180R? Will it affect the sound signature? me think not but just want to ask the master for best advice.
What do you think?
Thanks
Do
Since I'm placing orders for all parts, I was wondering which resistor type would be ideal for best noise figure on the O/S for Source resistors.
Pricing is not an issue at all so here's the two I'm thinking of :
Vishay CPF31R5000FKE14 metal film 3W 1% 100ppm
CPF31R5000FKE14 Vishay / Dale | Mouser Canada
or
Panasonic ERX-3SJ1R5 metal film 3W 5% 300ppm
ERX-3SJ1R5 Panasonic | Mouser Canada
or
TE Connectivity MOX 3W 5% 350ppm
ROX3SJ1R5 TE Connectivity / Neohm | Mouser Canada
I kinda prefer the Vishay for the best specs, the other ones are 5% and 300+ppm...
For the 40x 180R (20 per O/S PCB), can I use 178R or 182R instead of 180R? Will it affect the sound signature? me think not but just want to ask the master for best advice.
What do you think?
Thanks
Do
source resistors - buy cheapest 
you'll not hear difference between them
regarding gate stoppers - value is not critical at all - use whatever you want between 150 and 220R

you'll not hear difference between them
regarding gate stoppers - value is not critical at all - use whatever you want between 150 and 220R
Hi Zen,
The required 2SJ74 (or alternate part). If you have matched sets with ideal Idss for the B JX, I would gladly buy from you. I don't know of a really trusted source to get them.
Thanks
Do
The required 2SJ74 (or alternate part). If you have matched sets with ideal Idss for the B JX, I would gladly buy from you. I don't know of a really trusted source to get them.
Thanks
Do
Or here, ,Do.
Nelson Pass recommended it: Toshiba 2SJ74 LAB MATCHED QUAD to 0.03mA / 4mV (7-8mA Range) | eBay
Nelson Pass recommended it: Toshiba 2SJ74 LAB MATCHED QUAD to 0.03mA / 4mV (7-8mA Range) | eBay
Thanks for the info Vitalie!
The only issue I’m seeing is the extreme high price and shipping is 27$usd. The shipping should cost no more than 10$usd for something that small and light as this.
The diyaudio store sells matched sets of 8 Lsj74 for 65$usd but I don’t know if set A or B is best... I would need Idss closer to the highest A or lower in the B and there’s no garantit of what I’ll get.
I’ll see if there are other options.
Thanks
Do
The only issue I’m seeing is the extreme high price and shipping is 27$usd. The shipping should cost no more than 10$usd for something that small and light as this.
The diyaudio store sells matched sets of 8 Lsj74 for 65$usd but I don’t know if set A or B is best... I would need Idss closer to the highest A or lower in the B and there’s no garantit of what I’ll get.
I’ll see if there are other options.
Thanks
Do
Hi Zen,
The required 2SJ74 (or alternate part). If you have matched sets with ideal Idss for the B JX, I would gladly buy from you. I don't know of a really trusted source to get them.
Thanks
Do
gimme few days and I'll send you two pairs of J271
as I said , for my ears no difference (vs. Toshiba) in Aleph
Sooo nice!!!! Thanks a million Zen!!! 🙂
Please PM me the price for the quad and the shipping and I will send you PayPal.
Thanks
Do
Please PM me the price for the quad and the shipping and I will send you PayPal.
Thanks
Do
no money involved
though , for making a mess not saying right away that you need them (I believe you even wrote something about having JFets?) , so I could send them right away with pcbs and all , you owe me a beer

though , for making a mess not saying right away that you need them (I believe you even wrote something about having JFets?) , so I could send them right away with pcbs and all , you owe me a beer

I do have some 2SJ74BL matched quad but with a Idss of 11
I should be almost half that unfortunately... But you came to the rescue! 😀
Thanks
Do
I should be almost half that unfortunately... But you came to the rescue! 😀
Thanks
Do
pinnochio - as input JFets are biased in LTP with CCS in tail , only important thing is that you have JFets with Idss greater than Iq in circuit
programmed current in LTP is around 10mA , so each JFet conducting half , 5mA
now you have a choice - either Toshibas you have , or J271 from Mighty Moi
🙂
programmed current in LTP is around 10mA , so each JFet conducting half , 5mA
now you have a choice - either Toshibas you have , or J271 from Mighty Moi
🙂
Hi Zen,
I’m very far from being at your skill level, so if you tell me those Toshiba are good, I’ll use them. On the other hand if you tell me that optimally I should wait for the J271, then I’ll definitely follow your advice.
All I know from those Jfets is that they are genuine, bought them many years ago from Fetaudio. They’re a full match quad of NNNNPPPP and matching is 0.2mA, Idss is 11mA. Unfortunately, I have no clue at what voltage they were matched, it remains a mystery to me...
So I’m aiming for the best results, thus I’ll wait to know what the Mighty Zen tells me I should go for.
Cheers!
Do
I’m very far from being at your skill level, so if you tell me those Toshiba are good, I’ll use them. On the other hand if you tell me that optimally I should wait for the J271, then I’ll definitely follow your advice.
All I know from those Jfets is that they are genuine, bought them many years ago from Fetaudio. They’re a full match quad of NNNNPPPP and matching is 0.2mA, Idss is 11mA. Unfortunately, I have no clue at what voltage they were matched, it remains a mystery to me...
So I’m aiming for the best results, thus I’ll wait to know what the Mighty Zen tells me I should go for.
Cheers!
Do
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