Babelfish M25, SissySIT - general building tips and tricks

Member
Joined 2019
Paid Member
sometimes it's hard to figure

Got my stuff from ZM. Thanks ZM. So I thought I may as well get something to put it in. I was thinking the 4U/400 would be the perfect box but... it doesn't come with the UMS. Only the 4U/300 and 5U/400. And its expensive, $250 I think and you have to send the file. Kind of hard to figure since they do it all the time anyway. Or, I can do it myself. Either way kind of a pain. Am I the only one that thinks the 4U/400 is a great size for these projects? I like to support the store. They do such a great job. Are they missing the boat here?
Don
 
Official Court Jester
Joined 2003
Paid Member
dunno :clown:

just make your own taps , and take it as normal

tip - almost always you can set things that needed hole(s) goes between fins ; that way you drill complete through hole (not blind) and tapping through hole is much less critical

and , even if bolt is little protruding between fins , M3 is so small and mostly invisible
 
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CNC Router

Don,

It is kit based system from OpenBuilds
https://openbuildspartstore.com/

It is the large C-Beam kit that they no longer sell but they have newer design models available. I have modified mine for better aluminum work by adding an aluminum table, an extra set of liner rails and a mist system. All my mods were based on projects listed on the site.

Be advised that there are a fairly large number of skill sets required to get your projects up and running. If you have never worked with CNC equipment before, be prepared for a substantial learning curve. Putting it together and making it work took a lot longer than I was expecting.

Roy
 
In the past, friends on the forum, friends who purchased THF-51T and THF-51N, (friends who bought here) If you have time, please explain in the forum

I ca n’t reveal the name of my friend because it ’s privacy

So if a friend is willing to share the results, then we are very happy
Share: Are the results of using THF-51T and THF-51N the same? ?
How is the effect?
 
Because this is used, the appearance is a bit dirty, please do n’t mind, because this is a normal functioning transistor
I can clean it for everyone, wipe off the oily surface, wipe it with a towel
All tests are completed, please see the picture
THF-51N TOKIN and 2PCS 2SK180(The length of the foot is only half. The friends who need it can send e-mails, only 2 of them are normal
No impact on work)
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Hb428cc8303a64411b0dfdad28eb733e0r.jpg

H2f5cb91ec6f64767b3c86ed52a1dd867k.jpg

H6e990e90093f4ec9bd808888e826cb35f.jpg

H75663b874d9844dca2df9cb7a1fb55d1g.jpg

H65b1690b0a13473ba64eb8ccef642178b.jpg

H1f5bb9a37ec6488f9a2d55bdb23931b2T.jpg

Hef9e6898d96a426eb0302f1236b46773e.jpg
 
Member
Joined 2019
Paid Member
M25 stuffing questions

ZM,
Stuffing the B M25 boards and a few questions have come up and I would rather ask than guess.
1. Is it correct to say that the 1N4148 diodes are only used in positions 1,2 and 3 and not 4 and 5. Both channels.
2. Does the LM336 voltage ref go in the VR1 position. The circuit diagram has a different part number showing and that number is not on the checklist.
3. Do I ignore the long wire jumper on the r side of the r channel
:confused:

Thanks,
 
Official Court Jester
Joined 2003
Paid Member
ZM,
Stuffing the B M25 boards and a few questions have come up and I would rather ask than guess.
1. Is it correct to say that the 1N4148 diodes are only used in positions 1,2 and 3 and not 4 and 5. Both channels.
2. Does the LM336 voltage ref go in the VR1 position. The circuit diagram has a different part number showing and that number is not on the checklist.
3. Do I ignore the long wire jumper on the r side of the r channel
:confused:

Thanks,

1. yes , just D1, D2, D3
2.LM336 or LM385 - whatever, both "ref. Zener" diodes ...... ok - IC , but serving same function ; LM336 name originated from Eagle software , ZM being lazy to change it , same part for my brain
3. yup , feel free to ignore both long thin wire jumpers
 
Member
Joined 2003
Paid Member
Got my stuff from ZM. Thanks ZM. So I thought I may as well get something to put it in. I was thinking the 4U/400 would be the perfect box but... it doesn't come with the UMS. Only the 4U/300 and 5U/400. And its expensive, $250 I think and you have to send the file. Kind of hard to figure since they do it all the time anyway. Or, I can do it myself. Either way kind of a pain. Am I the only one that thinks the 4U/400 is a great size for these projects? I like to support the store. They do such a great job. Are they missing the boat here?
Don

This came up a while back, and a run was made. A certain number was required (10 or 20 I don't remember)
But it filled quickly. You might inquire over on the Store thread about chassis. Let people know here and it would quickly fill. I don't know why it isn't a regular feature but this is a labor of love thing, and at least they have the Deluxe 5U.

That said, drilling and tapping is easy. Just take your time, keep threads lubed while cutting, back out and don't force anything. I did it with simple hand tools on my first amp, F5.

Zenmods idea about drilling between fins is a good one.

Russellc
 
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