Academy Audio VCU and LPS9
Hey everyone. Has anyone installed the Academy VCU and the LPS9 as of yet?
I am still pretty green at reading schematics. I know they do provide some instruction now due to interest but I just don't want to mess it up. I work better with a visual. I have all the parts that are needed so any help would be greatly appreciated
Hey everyone. Has anyone installed the Academy VCU and the LPS9 as of yet?
I am still pretty green at reading schematics. I know they do provide some instruction now due to interest but I just don't want to mess it up. I work better with a visual. I have all the parts that are needed so any help would be greatly appreciated
Apologize as this is not B1 specific - I have one P089ZB PCB, could I use the Korg wall-wart to run a B1 and a Hagerman Bugle2? Would split after the PO89ZB.
I can't find Bugle2 current draw, but the transformer is Gs06U-6P1J 250mA, and the one I have for the Korg is 800mA. I think I should have enough headroom to run both. I only have one P089ZB or I would do one on each.
I can't find Bugle2 current draw, but the transformer is Gs06U-6P1J 250mA, and the one I have for the Korg is 800mA. I think I should have enough headroom to run both. I only have one P089ZB or I would do one on each.
I looked at the LPS9-Korg pcb modifications and decided that I didn't want to make all those changes to the B1K PCB.
I have been running my Korg with an LDR volume control in front of the input jacks as a temporary thing to make sure the Korg was working properly, and now intend to wire the AA VCU using an inexpensive power supply splitter recommended by another member. Not sure how this is going to work due to probable noise in the supply, we'll see.
Thanks for the reply Wapo54001. I know what you mean. My Korg is working awesome right now as the kit build so I have been reluctant to make any changes. Just wanted the convenience of the remote volume control. I am a bit confused on how to hook up the LPS9. I thought I had all the components I needed but realized I am missing the relay and some resistors it seems. I was hoping that someone did this installation that could help out. It may be better to just leave well enough alone for now. I have the Korg hooked up to 2 ACA’s running in bridged mono, with a Pro-ject Debut Carbon evo turntable and it sounds I incredible. Best of luck on your build😁
I think the LPS9 is the regulator PCB only. The relay thing is entirely optional and up to you, not part of either kit. Note that the delay is about 1.5 seconds which is not enough for me to be comfortable with it.
If you want the IR control (essential, IMHO) and you already have the AA VCU, consider trying an inexpensive ($12) power supply board that takes 24V from the wall wart and splits it into +/- 12v~15v for the VCU. No modifications to the Korg at all and later you can add smoothing or pull it out entirely without changing anything permanently. I use velcro with adhesive backing to attach small boards to the chassis (use full size to match the pcb on the chassis side for insulation, a smaller piece on the pcb side 'cause if you use it full size on both sides you'll need a crowbar to lift the pcb later.
At 6 watts it's overkill. Also read the app note, some front end smoothing and back end capacitance might be in order.
Digikey PART: 1866-DKMW06G-12-ND
MFG : MEAN WELL USA Inc. / DKMW06G-12
DESC: DC DC CONVERTER +/-12V 6W 12.84000
Has anyone experienced “digital” noise from their pre-amp? I am running a pair of ACAs in mono, with the B1 connected and powered but with no input signal, I can hear faint noise at my speakers, kind of like some digital modulation ( think of old GSM) but random in nature. If I turn the pre-amp off, the noise goes. Are these known for picking up noise? Any threads or links?
I get this whether running SMPS or Linear 24v supply.
Thanks, Jon
I get this whether running SMPS or Linear 24v supply.
Thanks, Jon
Just last night I noticed faint ringing in one channel that went away when I turned the B1 Korg NuTube preamp off, meaning my ACA is dead silent with no input. It was there whether or not I had my PO89ZB ripple filter in line with the wall wart. I have a RPi DAC very near by the NuTube and my suspicion is that it or a nearby power line may be responsible.
Just got my Korg working with the Academy Audio volume control. I was impressed with the Korg before with my older volume control but I'm even more impressed now with the Muses chip volume control installed. I am using a simple SMPS device to convert +24V to +/- 12V for the control but I cannot hear any SMPS-caused issue and the sound is crystal-clear with no strain or veiling that I can discern.
Did you need to get a pcb to in order to use this? It looks as though it needs to be soldered on one in order to install it
No, I turned it upside down and used the magic velcro with adhesive back. See the photo.
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Oh okay I see. I bought that same meanwell supply. When I received it didn’t think it would work because it looked as though it needed to be mounted on its own pcb. I now see that is not the case and will look into using it. Is that a filter you have the main power going into before going to power supply?
wapo, if you have a moment would you please post a detail photo of your connections on the Academy Audio volume control?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Here it is. The blue color is painter's tape I used to protect the front panel while I worked on the wiring, etc. The extra-long wires are there so I could work on the wiring with the front panel folded down flat on the table.
I unsoldered the pin connectors (slide the black plastic spacer off, then unsolder one-at-a-time), wetted a small mound of fresh solder on the pad, then removed a tiny length (2mm?) of insulation off the end of the wire, wetted the strands together, and melted the wire solder and mounded solder together to form a solid bond. Didn't push the wire through the holes. A fine-tipped iron is pretty important here.
Wired the signal common connections to the pcb pads together with the wires from the input jacks.
I added holes to the front panel to accomodate the IR receiver and the dual-colored LED. I can confirm the IR works from off-center directions. If I'd thought of it, I would have matched the size of the LED hole to that of the power LED, then increased the diameter of the hole on the back of the panel to accommodate the LED. The LED is hard-mounted and needs a hole big enough to accommodate it inside the panel.
One other thing -- the diameter of the AA VCU bushing is a lot smaller than that of the hole in the front panel. I used a short length of .041 (1mm) solid wire wrapped around the bushing to ensure the control was centered in the hole -- important so that the knob will be centered in the hole. BTW, for folks who didn't buy the complete kit and need to find a knob, found mine on eBay from, of course, China. It fits perfectly.
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I bet that you are experiencing microphonics. This is exactly what happened to me when I first turned on my B1K without any dampening around the Nutube. Look into the various options starting with 6L6's most simple approach of a big rubber eraser sitting on top. If that doesn't work, proceed to the other options. The good news is that it seems that in %99 one of the approaches addresses the issue.
--Tom
I also have an RPi DAC (Allo Boss) close by, but I also tried it when the DAC was not powered (it also runs a Linear PSU), however my ACA's are running the Meanwell SMPS, so there could be back feed from these into the extension block and the B1 is picking up this noise somehow. I'll try running them from a separate extension cable to see if that helps quieten things down. I am only borrowing the B1 from a friend so will ask him if he also had the same issue.