Member
Joined 2002
Itll work. 1N914 has less capacitance, switches faster, and has lower reverse current. I dont think any of these will matter though. Plus its probably the easiest thing to remove and replace if you decide to do later. The 1N4004 will work. Nelson says in the PDF that the D1 is a generic 1N914 type diode. Its just a diode.
D1 In the B1 pre-amp calls for 1N914, Can i use a 1N4004 ?
Yes! It's not in the audio line, and when the unit is powered up it is reverse biased anyway. Only when you turn the unit off will the diode be forward biased and then it will drain C2 via R4 and LED D2. So you will be fine.
Yes! It's not in the audio line, and when the unit is powered up it is reverse biased anyway. Only when you turn the unit off will the diode be forward biased and then it will drain C2 via R4 and LED D2. So you will be fine.
From an academic standpoint, isn't R3 a lower resistance path and thus obviates D1? If someone omitted D2, R3 still provides at bleed path. Is it possible for D1 to mediate bleeding through the FETs?
Member
Joined 2002
If any one is loking for some really nice caps, this guy has some ---
Rubycon 63V 10000UF LOW ESR Capacitor's pair in 2's I just bought 2 for the psu part of this b1 board.
And for the 10uf, i bought 2 of these also.
Vintage ARCOTRONICS 10UF 600 DCV / 330 ACV Capacitor - eBay (item 220541711519 end time Jan-23-10 16:54:14 PST)
Rubycon 63V 10000UF LOW ESR Capacitor's pair in 2's I just bought 2 for the psu part of this b1 board.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And for the 10uf, i bought 2 of these also.
Vintage ARCOTRONICS 10UF 600 DCV / 330 ACV Capacitor - eBay (item 220541711519 end time Jan-23-10 16:54:14 PST)
I bought several Arcotronics MKP 10uF/400V similar to the item showed in the auction at Flea Markets here in Italy for 1 € ea ($1.5). They are good for power supplies bypass, not so good as output cap.
I'm doing my casework now, mostly p2p, although the PSU and the transistors themselves are on protoboards. I was wondering why every input has a 1M resistor to ground, instead of using only 1 resistor after the switch. Couldn't I do that instead? I've got 4 inputs in my case, and the switch switches both the signal and ground for all of them.
The only difference in that config will be that any sources that are on will be open-circuit rather than loaded with 1 megaohm. I can't see a problem with that, can you?
The only difference in that config will be that any sources that are on will be open-circuit rather than loaded with 1 megaohm. I can't see a problem with that, can you?
That's my plan if the logic posted above turns out to be too broken 🙂 It'll do it after I'm done with all tests and painting the case, because after that they'll be too annoying to remove.
For those using TeddyRegs with the B1, what values of C1 and C2 do you use? Do you still use these fairly large value electrolytics? I think I saw someone planning to use 47uF MMKs (polyester?)?
Newbie looking for answers.
Newbie looking for answers.
Reversed voltage at input
I quite stupidly attached a battery power supply to my B1 with the +on the ground and the - on the pin (i.e. backwards). I now get a distorted sound through the B1. I am thinking that I blew the 2SK370's, and that they need to be replaced. Is this the logical repair step?
I was also running an optocoupler as the volume control, and it seems to be OK when I measure the resistance of the optocouplers. It is possible/probable that I blew the optocouplers as well?
I tried the B1 by itself without the volume control (connecting W and CW, input and output for the pot), and the sound had the same distortion.
I can order 2SK170's and match them. Are the 370's better or different? I did some searches, but I couldn't find a comparison. I might ask Pass Labs if they will sell me a replacement set since I did buy my board and jfets from them originally.
Thank you for your help and suggestions.
Aaron.
I quite stupidly attached a battery power supply to my B1 with the +on the ground and the - on the pin (i.e. backwards). I now get a distorted sound through the B1. I am thinking that I blew the 2SK370's, and that they need to be replaced. Is this the logical repair step?
I was also running an optocoupler as the volume control, and it seems to be OK when I measure the resistance of the optocouplers. It is possible/probable that I blew the optocouplers as well?
I tried the B1 by itself without the volume control (connecting W and CW, input and output for the pot), and the sound had the same distortion.
I can order 2SK170's and match them. Are the 370's better or different? I did some searches, but I couldn't find a comparison. I might ask Pass Labs if they will sell me a replacement set since I did buy my board and jfets from them originally.
Thank you for your help and suggestions.
Aaron.
I don't know. I connected the supply improperly many times when I was trying to first get the LED to light (didn't wait for the caps to charge) and haven't had any difficulty.
What was the voltage and current of the supply?
What was the voltage and current of the supply?
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taykg, I have a 10,000uf mundorf in C1 and a 2200uf Blackgate in C2. they were just what I had lying round. If i was going to do anything after my superteddyreg based on some idea of 'best practice' then it would be large film caps.
I will replace them at some point..
I will replace them at some point..
Thanks sq225917!
When you say large film caps, you mean MKPs? What kind of values are you looking at?
When you say large film caps, you mean MKPs? What kind of values are you looking at?
Orpheus,
If you measure resistance on your optocouplers then they are working. Especially if they move around when you change the power to them. If you hook them up backward to the power supply you CAN blow them, but it has only happened once to me and I have done that several times. If you want to rule them out then just hook them up as a pot and remove the B1 and see if you have the distortion.
I hope you are regulating or otherwise protecting them. If you use the B1's 18V to the optocouplers, and if you are using LDRs which I assume you are, then 18V will destroy them very fast if not properly protected. I will assume you are regulating to appropriate voltage since they are not destroyed.
If you need some 2sk170's that are matched let me know and I will send you a pair or two.
Uriah
If you measure resistance on your optocouplers then they are working. Especially if they move around when you change the power to them. If you hook them up backward to the power supply you CAN blow them, but it has only happened once to me and I have done that several times. If you want to rule them out then just hook them up as a pot and remove the B1 and see if you have the distortion.
I hope you are regulating or otherwise protecting them. If you use the B1's 18V to the optocouplers, and if you are using LDRs which I assume you are, then 18V will destroy them very fast if not properly protected. I will assume you are regulating to appropriate voltage since they are not destroyed.
If you need some 2sk170's that are matched let me know and I will send you a pair or two.
Uriah
I'm doing my casework now, mostly p2p, although the PSU and the transistors themselves are on protoboards. I was wondering why every input has a 1M resistor to ground, instead of using only 1 resistor after the switch. Couldn't I do that instead? I've got 4 inputs in my case, and the switch switches both the signal and ground for all of them.
The only difference in that config will be that any sources that are on will be open-circuit rather than loaded with 1 megaohm. I can't see a problem with that, can you?
The 1M resistor is there to bleed down any DC voltage that might have
developed when the input was not selected. There is explanation of it in the
Pass B1 article.
Good evening there,
anyone tried to combine two B1 board ( used to have a balanced preamp ) with balanced kit ver. 4 of P&S technologies?
link: http://www.pns-tech.com/images/271_main/balanced_kit.jpg
anyone tried to combine two B1 board ( used to have a balanced preamp ) with balanced kit ver. 4 of P&S technologies?
link: http://www.pns-tech.com/images/271_main/balanced_kit.jpg
Orpheus,
If you measure resistance on your optocouplers then they are working. Especially if they move around when you change the power to them. If you hook them up backward to the power supply you CAN blow them, but it has only happened once to me and I have done that several times. If you want to rule them out then just hook them up as a pot and remove the B1 and see if you have the distortion.
I hope you are regulating or otherwise protecting them. If you use the B1's 18V to the optocouplers, and if you are using LDRs which I assume you are, then 18V will destroy them very fast if not properly protected. I will assume you are regulating to appropriate voltage since they are not destroyed.
If you need some 2sk170's that are matched let me know and I will send you a pair or two.
Uriah
Thank you for responding to my post. I'm using the LDR's that I bought from you with the circuit board from dvb-projekt, which has a regulated supply installed. I am powering the optocouplers with a rechargeable 9 volt battery for now. The reason that I thought the optocouplers might have blown is that the ground on the B1 is connected to the ground on the optocoupler board, so there was voltage on the ground on the board. I'll have to rig up some cables to use it as a standalone volume control. Perhaps that will make a good stand in while my B1 is down.
Chrismercurio:
I was using a 12 volt sealed lead acid battery, about 3 amps of current. It is under spec for the B1, but it was working (that is until I plugged one in backwards).
One question, if I am using a LM7805 regulated 5 volt supply for the optocouplers, could I power it from the LED power supply on the B1 at +18 volts? I'm not planning on using an LED for the B1, and that would make for an easy connection. Might tax the regulator too much though, what do you think?
Thanks again for your response and assistance.
Best,
Aaron.
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