the drop from 1k0 to 330r will let receiver see a lower source resistance and at the same time raise the RF filter just over an octave.
This may be audible. Worth trying.
This may be audible. Worth trying.
If that helps, I'm using 220s at the output of my B1 and it seems stable. The dual-supply version of B1 also uses 220 for output resistor I believe. I don't have an oscilloscope to measure if there's any difference though. You can give it a shot.
Fair enough, I will try to draw a plan and post it. By reading previous posts, I though it was ''relatively'' simple...not shore anymore
Following my last post, finally got the time to draw the way I want to connect my balanced version of the B1. What is not shown on the drawing is the switch to change the input from balanced to RCA and the 4 gang potentiometer. Any suggestions?
Eric
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I just finished my B1 thank you Nelson for sharing.
I have a question:
I have almost 100 hrs on unit and still sounds rather dark and recessed. I have 4 Takman rex carbon resistors in the signal path. I have heard they are warmer but i am getting to much warm and they can take while to settle down. I am ready to remove at least two but wondering if anyone knows if they might still open up with a few more hrs???
Thanks
I have a question:
I have almost 100 hrs on unit and still sounds rather dark and recessed. I have 4 Takman rex carbon resistors in the signal path. I have heard they are warmer but i am getting to much warm and they can take while to settle down. I am ready to remove at least two but wondering if anyone knows if they might still open up with a few more hrs???
Thanks
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I'd say, if you aren't used to it in a 100 hours, something is wrong and you might want to see if you change something.
As for the whole burn-in of components, I wouldn't touch that with a 100-feet pole. It can get scary 🙂
I mean, if you change something in the system, whatever it is - transistors/caps/resistors/voltage/bias, and it sounds better then you're happy you improved your system. That's the charm of DIY, after all.
Burn-in, psychoacoustic conditioning, whatever you want to call it can't correct mistakes, or the fact that you bought a component from a weird source and it turned out to be a fake and you didn't realise in time. Those things happen sometimes.
BTW, my B1 uses resistors from my "by-the-pound" bag. Whatever they are, they seem to sound perfectly OK in both my amp, preamp and headphone amp so far.
As for the whole burn-in of components, I wouldn't touch that with a 100-feet pole. It can get scary 🙂
I mean, if you change something in the system, whatever it is - transistors/caps/resistors/voltage/bias, and it sounds better then you're happy you improved your system. That's the charm of DIY, after all.
Burn-in, psychoacoustic conditioning, whatever you want to call it can't correct mistakes, or the fact that you bought a component from a weird source and it turned out to be a fake and you didn't realise in time. Those things happen sometimes.
BTW, my B1 uses resistors from my "by-the-pound" bag. Whatever they are, they seem to sound perfectly OK in both my amp, preamp and headphone amp so far.
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Yeah, a pair of sinlges resistors are not going to completely change the sound character of a device. It can influence it, but I don't think it will solve your problem.
made my shelf a B1 ( a generic construction that suffers from a few errors ) that still plays amazingly well
veroboard simple material good quality transitors ... other than that a very simple thing
things i liked
bandwidth dynamics ultralow noise nice colours warm doesnt strech almost any kind of music ...works very nice ... sounds also very crisp and linear
only thing that puzzled me a bit is that it seems that it sounds better with 24 volt supply than it sounds with 18 is there a reason for that or simply my imagination ???
eventhough generic construction actually meet almost all measuring specs
way to go Papa thank you very much
veroboard simple material good quality transitors ... other than that a very simple thing
things i liked
bandwidth dynamics ultralow noise nice colours warm doesnt strech almost any kind of music ...works very nice ... sounds also very crisp and linear
only thing that puzzled me a bit is that it seems that it sounds better with 24 volt supply than it sounds with 18 is there a reason for that or simply my imagination ???
eventhough generic construction actually meet almost all measuring specs
way to go Papa thank you very much
Attachments
I never tried 24v. It sounds better at 18v than at 9v, 12v, or 15v and I stopped there because everything improved so much at 18v. What do you find the difference to be between 18v and 24v?
Chris
Chris
i would say that sound is warmer and more balanced with 24 volt ... also seems thathigh is more clean and tollerant ... that might be a small detail but still audible
Also if in the front is a class AB amplifier this type of diference is not that obvious ... but with a class A amplifier begins to be more audible
kind regards sakis
Also if in the front is a class AB amplifier this type of diference is not that obvious ... but with a class A amplifier begins to be more audible
kind regards sakis
B1 mods ?
Hi guys
I wanted to get your input on
my B1,it went from very warm and closed in dark sounding to
now it is way to bright, I mean the soundstage got really big
but it is just to bright to enjoy for a long period,
These are the changes I made from I went to all PRP resistors,
I swithced from vishay 1uf & Axon 10uf to Sonicaps on both.
and also I changed the 1k resistors to 330r on all 4 of them
I am thinking of going back to 1K, is there a better choice for caps
other than the Sonicaps,that is
warmer and plenty open at the same time for reasonable money.
Any thoughts.
Hi guys
I wanted to get your input on
my B1,it went from very warm and closed in dark sounding to
now it is way to bright, I mean the soundstage got really big
but it is just to bright to enjoy for a long period,
These are the changes I made from I went to all PRP resistors,
I swithced from vishay 1uf & Axon 10uf to Sonicaps on both.
and also I changed the 1k resistors to 330r on all 4 of them
I am thinking of going back to 1K, is there a better choice for caps
other than the Sonicaps,that is
warmer and plenty open at the same time for reasonable money.
Any thoughts.
Having used PRPs, Dale, Takman, and Shinkoh in my B1 and considering Soniccrafts own admission to the potential brightness of the Soniccaps, I would focus on the caps first.
18 volts DC. caps have maybe 30hrs on them,I just can't
imagine them mellowing out enough for my taste.
I would say the PRP seem like very good Quality,
I am thinking the culprit is the caps as well.
Well...assuming you still have the old ones, stick them back in. Or maybe, only swap the 10uF Axon back in. I have the 10uf Axon bypassed and the 1uf is a vitamin Q in mine. It's not bright at all, but not dark either.
Best,
Best,
Obbligatto are really great caps. I dont sense a sonic 'character' to them. Seems they are not there at all. Subtract one "b" or "t" from that spelling. I used the Premium ones. They have a gold outer casing. Have not yet tried their tin foil caps which are supposed to be even better.
Uriah
Uriah
I was just trying to suggest something that might get him halfway between where he was and where he is based on his complaint. As long as he has the old parts it's cheap too.
best,
best,
Well i decided to give this close to 300hrs break in as several subjested but it remained to warm and syrupy for my taste. I removed the 2 carbon input resistors and replaced with prp metal fim and it sounds much more lively. A real good balance for anyone looking for a slightly warmer presentation. 😀