Thanks Uriah! I have a 25 or 50k [I'll have to double check that] Nobel I got from percy. I would like to use that if it would be a good fit. I'll be running the B1 into a Audiosector Gainclone. I want to take the pot from that and put it in the B1
Is there a quick explanation as to why I would prefer a lower value than 25k such as 10k ?
Can anyone suggest reading material to help understand impedance as it relates to audio design. I've read this whole thread and regret that I really don't understand. Scott
ss007, amplifiers (pre and power amps) like to see a low output impedance from where they are feeded, so the lower the impedance of the pot, the most confortable will work the amp. The downside is that devices like to see high impedance at their outputs, so the device before the pot will like a high impedance pot.
Yo have to choose something that keeps both happy.
You can follow the rule of, the lower the output impedance of the device before the pot, the better it can handle a lower impedance pot, so keeping the device after the pot happy too.
These are not very technical explanations, but I think you may get the point
Regards,
Regi
Yo have to choose something that keeps both happy.
You can follow the rule of, the lower the output impedance of the device before the pot, the better it can handle a lower impedance pot, so keeping the device after the pot happy too.
These are not very technical explanations, but I think you may get the point
Regards,
Regi
After 7 nights cruise, the DMM I ordered from HK arrived - very good for $13. I measured all resistances across the board and two pots. Here are the findings:
- All resistance values of Dale resistors are consistent within tolerance range except R2 and R3 that I couldn't get a reliable readings from the meter. It won't stable for a long time and sometimes it will display negative values.
- The Alps stereo pot has a slightly differences between left and right channels. Not very big, but definitely different. The DACT-Type Stepped Stereo pot is spot on, 50K on both.
- All grounds are zero.
So I connected through the Pioneer player and Class D amp to my Continuum Continuum home. Well, it's centered. I listened to a few hours. It's centered. Why did I feel it's shifted to left before? Was that my illusion? Not really, I have a few friends feeling the same way.
I then switched speakers a 3 way using Dayton RS drivers. The image is still centered. Now I am a bit confused.
So I switched back to the Continuum again - that, right there, made a difference. The image is shifted to the left again. But after a song or two, it moves to the center. The only explanation I can guess is the speaker impedance. The Continuum is 8 ohm and the RS 3 way is 4 ohm. I am very surprised with this observation. Does this make sense to you? Speaker impedance really plays a role in this?
- All resistance values of Dale resistors are consistent within tolerance range except R2 and R3 that I couldn't get a reliable readings from the meter. It won't stable for a long time and sometimes it will display negative values.
- The Alps stereo pot has a slightly differences between left and right channels. Not very big, but definitely different. The DACT-Type Stepped Stereo pot is spot on, 50K on both.
- All grounds are zero.
So I connected through the Pioneer player and Class D amp to my Continuum Continuum home. Well, it's centered.
I listened to a few hours. It's centered. Why did I feel it's shifted to left before? Was that my illusion? Not really, I have a few friends feeling the same way.I then switched speakers a 3 way using Dayton RS drivers. The image is still centered. Now I am a bit confused.
So I switched back to the Continuum again - that, right there, made a difference. The image is shifted to the left again. But after a song or two, it moves to the center. The only explanation I can guess is the speaker impedance. The Continuum is 8 ohm and the RS 3 way is 4 ohm. I am very surprised with this observation. Does this make sense to you? Speaker impedance really plays a role in this?
Member
Joined 2002
Looks like a nice psu schematic, wonder how clean it would sound on the B1.
I haven't had the chance to experiment with many caps in general, but I can vouch for the Obligato Film-in-oil. They're fantastic. I've seen very good comments about the other types of Obligato caps as well. The prices of those caps are definitely a strong point in favor as well.
There'll be as many cap opinions as there are people on this forum though.
There'll be as many cap opinions as there are people on this forum though.
Obligato are exactly what I was looking at,
although they don't have a 1uf in the film in oil
I think it starts at 2uf,what are your thoughts.
I used the Vishays first and later swapped them for Vitamin Q's. It sounds MUCH better...fuller and richer. I also swapped the Panasonic caps at the same time for some Nichicon KG which I'm sure also contributed to the net effect.
Best,
10,000uF 50v Nichicon KG caps - bought these from Percy a decade ago, but you can get them from PartsConnexion now too
1uF 200v Vitamin Q - eBay. These are hard to find in lower voltages. They are wonderful sounding but also very toxic. Minimize the handling and don't eat fried chicken or lick your fingers after soldering. (Good advice anyway I suppose!)
1uF 200v Vitamin Q - eBay. These are hard to find in lower voltages. They are wonderful sounding but also very toxic. Minimize the handling and don't eat fried chicken or lick your fingers after soldering. (Good advice anyway I suppose!)
The Film-in-oil start at 2uF, yes, but more capacitance can't hurt. The prices for Obligato are quite low in price compared to some other caps and I think they're fantastic. I can't notice any side-effects from them being in the system at all.
Film-in-oil is rated for 630V however, so they're REALLY big. There are other Obligato film caps, I've read here on the forum that they're quite good too. They're smaller in size and they've got values from 0.047uF to 47uF.