The new JBL dual coil differential drive midbass's are excellent, especially in the midrange. I use the 2265HP. http://www.jblpro.com/pub/technote/JBL_TN%201-33%20rev3.pdf
I've heard some of their commercial offerings that are decent. Now if they would just offer a 10" differential drive for DIY. JBL has never been friendly on the pocketbook for DIY use for what you get in return. Good stuff though.
I need a 10 for midbass that can take some power, sounds good in the midrange, efficient and all for around $200.00 or less USD.
You and me both 😉
Im testing some Beyma 10BR60s Im also considering buying some used 18sound 10NMB420s.
I own many TD12M and TD12S from AEspeakers.com so I know the quality is there. The TD10M is a no brainer but its a little more $$$ for my current project. I did see your comment the AE speakers already. I was thinking the same thing and was trying find something different.
Very difficult indeed.
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Where do you purchase your 18 sound products from? US Speaker does not carry all their products. Just curious.
That Beyma looks like a good candidate for a nice 2 way.
The 18sound would be a used purchase. Im still figure out what I want. I need to get the Beyma measurements first.
I do know that you can call USspeaker.com and have them order drivers from 18sound.
I do know that you can call USspeaker.com and have them order drivers from 18sound.
Hi TrueSound
Have you played with any of the stuff from Radian or PAUDIO?
I have heard good reports about these companies, but never heard them myself.
Have you played with any of the stuff from Radian or PAUDIO?
I have heard good reports about these companies, but never heard them myself.
I have plenty of Radian (as well as Renkus and Emilar- pretty much the same) drivers and experience with them. They are decent drivers but can be terrible if not fine tuned due to the way the back chamber/diaphragm mount was designed. They also need periodic testing because they can go out of alignment. When working properly the large format 2" exit 850 Radian can be used from 800 to 17k with decent resolution, it's the best of the bunch. The Beyma 380 is a much better design out of the box with zero fuss. Over the years I have found I like non-metallic diaphragmed drivers over metallic - less fatique - No experience with paudio. What are you looking to do?
The eight" inchJBL 2118H's may end your search if you want to run a cone up beyond 1.8K. Forget the Fostex, Lowther, Supravox fullrange 8's they are toys compared to the 2118. A little less MAX output then the best pro 10's but I doubt you'll find one with this kind of resolution and tone. If you load it in a box it will work well down to 200-250 Hz (or much lower if you don't want high SPL) and can be crossed over as high as 3.5K.
It has to be a 10", I have 8" solutions already. Besides JBL is over the "under $200" requirement, isnt it?
I want to build a high efficiency pair of speakers (at least 96dB/W/m) but I definitely don't want to compromise on sound quality.
Open Baffle or ported enclosure. 2 way or 2.5 way, although I could be convinced to go 3 way if it was a big improvement.
I could go with a compression driver or Raal Tweeter matched to a pair of woofers (eg 2 x 10" or even up to 2 x 15" per speaker).
I have experience with bass woofers (for bass guitar) but not professional audio speakers. I am not sure what is good value for money here. I want to keep the total cost of drivers/tweeters under $2000.
Initially I was thinking of a coaxial speaker (eg Radian or PAudio) but now I am open to suggestions.
At the moment I have a Usher 2.5 way design, which I am quite happy with, but I am wondering if I can improve on this while also increasing the efficiency.
Believe it or not, that was one of the most popular midbasses in *car audio* during the 90s. Strange but true. A lot of winning vehicles used that driver.
It’s been awhile but I have decided to step up to a twelve and go with the 3012HO base of feedback from other members on this forum. I looks to be a great compromise between performance and price. I will use the Beyma CP380 on the QSC PL-000446-GP horn. At $34 dollars shipped how could I go wrong? The horn is back ordered until Oct. 10 but I am not in a hugh hurry anyway. Lack of funds makes a big difference in the rush.
The build will be similar to the No quarters build but in an MTM alignment. Good thing my wife let me have a dedicated room as this thing will be huge.
FYI while on the QSC store in noticed they have the 18 sound X-T120 with a Mylar compression driver (not sure which one) attached for $29.00. That’s cheaper than just the horn at most places and the compression driver is a bonus. Has anyone else seen this? This could be a great low cost build with an 8”. I also saw a lot of mixed pricing on B&C components some being half the price of most US online stores.
The build will be similar to the No quarters build but in an MTM alignment. Good thing my wife let me have a dedicated room as this thing will be huge.
FYI while on the QSC store in noticed they have the 18 sound X-T120 with a Mylar compression driver (not sure which one) attached for $29.00. That’s cheaper than just the horn at most places and the compression driver is a bonus. Has anyone else seen this? This could be a great low cost build with an 8”. I also saw a lot of mixed pricing on B&C components some being half the price of most US online stores.
An MTM alignment based off the NQ or Econo-waveguide designs would be great!!
btw, I didnt see the 18sound/CD combo on the QSC site before. Thanks for the heads up on that one.
btw, I didnt see the 18sound/CD combo on the QSC site before. Thanks for the heads up on that one.
Go to the parts list and search for 18 sound. Also if you do a search for B&C I think you will find some pretty killer deals. Funny some drivers such as the 15TBX are not such a good deal but some of the compression drivers were dirt cheap.
As the QSC is a big flare, I'd be concerned about the C-C distances for the drivers, depending on where you cross it over etc.
Ok, so I know I have been all over the map but I have settled down to an MTM with the QSC horn (the larger one) loaded with a B&C DE-250 and two 3012HO’s. I would really like to try the Beyma CP-380 but I can get the B&C for nearly half the price of the Beyma’s through a wholesale account I have. Most of the opinions I have read have not favored one over the other so at half the price I don’t think I can go wrong. I have order the horns and will order the components later this week but I am also considering ordering some replacement grills for the HPR-153s from the QSC store. Has anybody else used their grills? They look like they could work for the MTM although just a tad tall. The speakers will live in cabinetry most of the time and not be seen however I may want to take them out for special events. I will build them to be mobile with handles, Duretex and perhaps QSC grills. I can get them CnC cut for free through my job. I work in prototyping and have access to lots of goodies.
I was planning on using Brandon’s no quarters DCX setting as a start while modified for the extra woofer. I figure it should be 5-6 db more sensitive for the extra woofer and amplifier gain. It’s a bit premature but does anybody have some ideas for an X-over starting point? I have a good old DCX-2496 for X-over and a QSC-2450 for each side (two). I have a bad habit of second guessing myself so as a result I like to get lots of input.
I am hoping to get these done before the weather gets too cold and wet as the only way I have to get good measurement is outdoors. I currently use SMAART 6 for measurement but I am welcome to other suggestions for software. I have been using an E-MU 0404 for the microphone preamp and phantom power (earthworks mic) but for some reason I am getting some 60Hz noise skewing the measurements. I was thinking of using a different power supply for the E-MU as I think this may be the source. It’s a dell laptop which is notorious for noise but it happens even with the laptop on battery power. Anybody else who uses the E-MU have any ideas?
I was planning on using Brandon’s no quarters DCX setting as a start while modified for the extra woofer. I figure it should be 5-6 db more sensitive for the extra woofer and amplifier gain. It’s a bit premature but does anybody have some ideas for an X-over starting point? I have a good old DCX-2496 for X-over and a QSC-2450 for each side (two). I have a bad habit of second guessing myself so as a result I like to get lots of input.
I am hoping to get these done before the weather gets too cold and wet as the only way I have to get good measurement is outdoors. I currently use SMAART 6 for measurement but I am welcome to other suggestions for software. I have been using an E-MU 0404 for the microphone preamp and phantom power (earthworks mic) but for some reason I am getting some 60Hz noise skewing the measurements. I was thinking of using a different power supply for the E-MU as I think this may be the source. It’s a dell laptop which is notorious for noise but it happens even with the laptop on battery power. Anybody else who uses the E-MU have any ideas?
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