"I'd like to keep the same case (and pinout) and I believe these are different - I'd really like to keep the amp as original as possible."
The pin-out is identical, they use the same die. The 07/57 version were obtained on a selection basis from the same die that produced the 05/55, 06/56.
If you want the original package you will just have to bite the bullet and pay the price (I won't).
The pin-out is identical, they use the same die. The 07/57 version were obtained on a selection basis from the same die that produced the 05/55, 06/56.
If you want the original package you will just have to bite the bullet and pay the price (I won't).
Same pinout - again my bad - apologies.
Where do most members buy their 'common' components such as resistors, caps and transistors? When I was based in the UK I used Maplin amongst others and they carried just about everything in their catalogue - what is the 'Maplin' equivalent here at home? I've been out of the hobby for years and looking for electronic components on the net seems like an exercise in futility - seems like they're spread out in bits everywhere but there must be a big hobby supplier? Oh, and not Radio Sh** : our local one carries half a bit of nothing. Thanks, Mike.
Where do most members buy their 'common' components such as resistors, caps and transistors? When I was based in the UK I used Maplin amongst others and they carried just about everything in their catalogue - what is the 'Maplin' equivalent here at home? I've been out of the hobby for years and looking for electronic components on the net seems like an exercise in futility - seems like they're spread out in bits everywhere but there must be a big hobby supplier? Oh, and not Radio Sh** : our local one carries half a bit of nothing. Thanks, Mike.
Hello Captain G. The rail voltage on the working board under load (or not) is 52 VDC according to my DMM. So far I have not been able to remove the rear heatsink panel that hides the O/P transistors: it's held onto the rear of the amp case by Hex head blind "crews" and I'm damn** if they will budge with the tools that I have. I'm going to try again with a tool a neighbor (40 miles away - we're in the sticks here) is bringing over this early afternoon - local time now is 12:20 so I'll get the part numbers up as fast as I can today. Thank you so much for all your effort and time.
Thanks djk, I've heard of Mouser and looked but that's a complicated website for me
I'll do a search on Digi-Key and take a (hopeful) look. Many thanks for the direction.
Best to all, Mike.
Just a thought even though the amp with one board works and sounds just fine ... does that rail voltage seem a bit low? I have probes but no clamp leads yet ... maybe a poor probe contact?
Thanks djk, I've heard of Mouser and looked but that's a complicated website for me
I'll do a search on Digi-Key and take a (hopeful) look. Many thanks for the direction. Best to all, Mike.
Just a thought even though the amp with one board works and sounds just fine ... does that rail voltage seem a bit low? I have probes but no clamp leads yet ... maybe a poor probe contact?
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I used a Model 2 Audire (100 wpb AB) for 25 plus years. The amp was an improved version of the Model 1. Both have oscillation issues that are ground related. Input cables must be 3 feet or less; otherwise the amp picks up RF and fries itself, usually just the outputs.
Later designs were free of this issue, but still have to set up and disconnected correctly. There is no protection circuitry. If you touch the speaker wires together, even if it has been unplugged for a short time, it will fry the innards, usually the outputs.
Otherwise, Audire amps are clean, robust, and sound very strong and accurate. The 125 wpc Forte is a true dual mono with modular design (removable channels) for ease of repair. Unfortunately, the Models 1 and 2 are extremely difficult to get to the boards for resoldering. They are not worth repairing unless you do it yourself.
Other early Audire amps are the 60 and 75 wpc Crescendos.
Later Audire amps, such as the Otez and Parlando are as fine as any amps ever built. Most of you have not heard of Audire because their market was limited to major metropolitan areas. As they were becoming better known, an unfortunate situation occurred for the American consumer: The production was sucked up by the proliferation of California and Japanese Discos.
Later models were Class A and are truly exceptinal. Although he retired the factory, Julius Siksnius is still repairing any his products, even answering the phone himself. Unlike most other great designers, he did not bid out his designs to the cheapest manufacturer, sell a boatload and then sell the company to start another. He maintaines control of the product to this day. Of course, this means he does don give out schematics, but his service is exceptional and his prices very fair.
BUT! The Models 1 and 2 can be bought cheaper than they can be repaired.
So don;t ask him to repair these. In fact, a Forte can be bought cheaper that a Model 2 can be repaired. You were supposed to use short cables, dummie. LOL
Unfortunatrely, as the amps were passed around over the last 40 years, this requirement did not always get told.
DanV
Later designs were free of this issue, but still have to set up and disconnected correctly. There is no protection circuitry. If you touch the speaker wires together, even if it has been unplugged for a short time, it will fry the innards, usually the outputs.
Otherwise, Audire amps are clean, robust, and sound very strong and accurate. The 125 wpc Forte is a true dual mono with modular design (removable channels) for ease of repair. Unfortunately, the Models 1 and 2 are extremely difficult to get to the boards for resoldering. They are not worth repairing unless you do it yourself.
Other early Audire amps are the 60 and 75 wpc Crescendos.
Later Audire amps, such as the Otez and Parlando are as fine as any amps ever built. Most of you have not heard of Audire because their market was limited to major metropolitan areas. As they were becoming better known, an unfortunate situation occurred for the American consumer: The production was sucked up by the proliferation of California and Japanese Discos.
Later models were Class A and are truly exceptinal. Although he retired the factory, Julius Siksnius is still repairing any his products, even answering the phone himself. Unlike most other great designers, he did not bid out his designs to the cheapest manufacturer, sell a boatload and then sell the company to start another. He maintaines control of the product to this day. Of course, this means he does don give out schematics, but his service is exceptional and his prices very fair.
BUT! The Models 1 and 2 can be bought cheaper than they can be repaired.
So don;t ask him to repair these. In fact, a Forte can be bought cheaper that a Model 2 can be repaired. You were supposed to use short cables, dummie. LOL
Unfortunatrely, as the amps were passed around over the last 40 years, this requirement did not always get told.
DanV
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