I took the plunge recently and bought an Audioromy FU13 amp of leshele (on9mart) on ebay. The amp arrived on schedule in well padded boxes an plays wonderful music.
So now I am wondering if anyone has a circuit diagram of the amp and experience with bias adjustment or any interesting mods.
So now I am wondering if anyone has a circuit diagram of the amp and experience with bias adjustment or any interesting mods.
Wow - Great!
I have surfed past Rören und Hören previously but obviously not found the right threads. There is lots of stuff there. In Norway there is a lot of interest in the Music Angel KT88, but it seems Germany is the place to go for Audioromy.
However, I see that I will have to brush up on my school german as google translate looses about half of the meaning.
I have surfed past Rören und Hören previously but obviously not found the right threads. There is lots of stuff there. In Norway there is a lot of interest in the Music Angel KT88, but it seems Germany is the place to go for Audioromy.
However, I see that I will have to brush up on my school german as google translate looses about half of the meaning.
Mine has 6n6p drivers😉 , of course.
Below the parts i have replaced until yet.
- Volumepotmeter. After 2 months it started to crack, replaced with Alps 100k LOG 2 channel potmeter.
- 47uf/40 V Capacitor to control on/off relais.
If this one is defect, the relais switch at 100hz and the fuse is blown.
- Rectifier tube was defect after 4 months, changed for another.
- Changed 6DJ8 tubes for JJ E88CC goldpin.
- Changed ECC82 for 6N6P. Must modify the heater powersupply.
The last two modifications are to change sound and this is very personal.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Below the parts i have replaced until yet.
- Volumepotmeter. After 2 months it started to crack, replaced with Alps 100k LOG 2 channel potmeter.
- 47uf/40 V Capacitor to control on/off relais.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If this one is defect, the relais switch at 100hz and the fuse is blown.
- Rectifier tube was defect after 4 months, changed for another.
- Changed 6DJ8 tubes for JJ E88CC goldpin.
- Changed ECC82 for 6N6P. Must modify the heater powersupply.
The last two modifications are to change sound and this is very personal.
I have one too...
I tried 12BH7 instead of the 12AU7, an improvement.
But should really re-build the driver completely...
Arne K
I tried 12BH7 instead of the 12AU7, an improvement.
But should really re-build the driver completely...
Arne K
Arne, you can try the JJ ECC99 this gives a better driver. You do not have to change anything. The ECC99 needs some more heater current but that is no problem for the amp.
HI Andy,
It is deeply hidden in Koifarms links.......
Don´t think you will be impressed when you find it, though!
It is deeply hidden in Koifarms links.......
Don´t think you will be impressed when you find it, though!
The Audioromy FU13 originally has
Output tube: Fu13/ 813 ×2
Input: 12AU7 x2,
Driver tube: 6DJ8 x2
Rectifier tube: 5Z3P x1
And it´s 22kg not 28 as some advertisers claim
Output tube: Fu13/ 813 ×2
Input: 12AU7 x2,
Driver tube: 6DJ8 x2
Rectifier tube: 5Z3P x1
And it´s 22kg not 28 as some advertisers claim
Thanks for quick and useful input guys,
I spent some time searching through your previous posts, Koifarm, looking for a diagram. Would you mind reposting here so we can collect an Audioromy info thread?
I spent some time searching through your previous posts, Koifarm, looking for a diagram. Would you mind reposting here so we can collect an Audioromy info thread?
Guess I´ll have to start tracing one from the amp then, it´s a good way to get to know it anyway.
About tube exchange you were talking about ecc99 needing more heater current. But you don´t need to do any changes in the amp, so it will run cooler, is that correct?
I want to buy a set of tubes for the amp and keep the originals in reserve. Would this be the best set:
a more linear input ecc99
Drivers Ecc88 - what is the effect?
Rectifier as standard
and Output 813s - Find something for better longevity I have heard the FU13 only last 2-3000hr
About tube exchange you were talking about ecc99 needing more heater current. But you don´t need to do any changes in the amp, so it will run cooler, is that correct?
I want to buy a set of tubes for the amp and keep the originals in reserve. Would this be the best set:
a more linear input ecc99
Drivers Ecc88 - what is the effect?
Rectifier as standard
and Output 813s - Find something for better longevity I have heard the FU13 only last 2-3000hr
The ECC99 needs MORE current so the amp will be a little hotter. You do not have to change anything. You got less distortion and more linearity and more dynamic/drive.
The tube setup is very personal. Do not change the brand for the FU13. We treid about every 813 tube we get our hands on but the shuguang FU13 sounds the best.
For the record:
The 6dj8( ecc88 or ecc85) is the inputstage.
The 12ax7 is the driver.
The tube setup is very personal. Do not change the brand for the FU13. We treid about every 813 tube we get our hands on but the shuguang FU13 sounds the best.
For the record:
The 6dj8( ecc88 or ecc85) is the inputstage.
The 12ax7 is the driver.
Keeping the FU13 is great, it seems you can spend a lot of money on 813 tubes, and the FU13 would be cheaper I guess.
Sorry for the mix up of input and driver, it just goes to show how imprecise information from the sellers is on these things.; And how much of a newbie I am.
Sorry for the mix up of input and driver, it just goes to show how imprecise information from the sellers is on these things.; And how much of a newbie I am.
Yikes - I've been collecting NOS 813s. Seems I should have been collecting FU13s.
What's the difference in sound?
andy
What's the difference in sound?
andy
http://img46.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fu13ie1.jpg
With a descent driver there should be no need for NFB......
I guess the 6DJ8 and ECC99 could do it without the 12AX7.
With a descent driver there should be no need for NFB......
I guess the 6DJ8 and ECC99 could do it without the 12AX7.
NFB = negative feedback. Usually a loop from output back to input, where it is more correctly called "global" NFB, but can be local as well, e.g. round two stages. NFB can reduce distortion but it may not always sound better and can also introduce instabilities. The simple solution with innately low distortion triodes is not to use it. With pentodes it has much more popularity, and with solid state devices it is almost compulsory.
andy
andy