I intend to build a pair of small good quality monitor speakers for a pc or music keyboard. I like the look of car coaxial speakers in the part express catalogue.
Are these worth considering???
I like the Jensen KS6920 6x9". They have a very wide freq res and have good sensitivity.
Has anyone taken on such a project??? Any suggestions or what might be the best coaxials to try??
I need transparency and fast dynamic sound. I intend to drive them with a 2x50W gaincard-clone based on the LM3875 chip.
Thanks
Are these worth considering???
I like the Jensen KS6920 6x9". They have a very wide freq res and have good sensitivity.
Has anyone taken on such a project??? Any suggestions or what might be the best coaxials to try??
I need transparency and fast dynamic sound. I intend to drive them with a 2x50W gaincard-clone based on the LM3875 chip.
Thanks
Do you need small, otherwise I would pick up a pair of Tannoy 15" Monitor Reds or Golds secondhand...
Seriously, why go to the States for car speakers, do some searching and you could probably find better co-axial drivers from Kef or Tannoy, good speakers without the marketing hype that car audio drivers seem to collect.
Seriously, why go to the States for car speakers, do some searching and you could probably find better co-axial drivers from Kef or Tannoy, good speakers without the marketing hype that car audio drivers seem to collect.
I second pinkmoose
Hunt around the UK for some pre-loved Tannoy Saturn or 600 series dual concetrics. The KEFs would also be OK, and I think the base model KEF C-whatever was/is quite cheap.
SEAS make come 6.5" dual concentrics (I think Wilmslow Audio in the UK sell them) that are OK, but not up to the Tannoys or even KEFs.
Car speaks are over-hyped and under-performing IMO. Tannoys would crap all over them.
Cheers
Hunt around the UK for some pre-loved Tannoy Saturn or 600 series dual concetrics. The KEFs would also be OK, and I think the base model KEF C-whatever was/is quite cheap.
SEAS make come 6.5" dual concentrics (I think Wilmslow Audio in the UK sell them) that are OK, but not up to the Tannoys or even KEFs.
Car speaks are over-hyped and under-performing IMO. Tannoys would crap all over them.
Cheers
baby Tannoys
Are those the ones with the 170 or 200mm dual concetrics? I am patiently waiting for my dealer to blow out his demos (w 200mm units), so i can grab them for drivers (last time i missed one of his blow-outs it was a pair of the big NAIM monoblocs for $1300 CAD!!).
dave
Brett said:
Are those the ones with the 170 or 200mm dual concetrics? I am patiently waiting for my dealer to blow out his demos (w 200mm units), so i can grab them for drivers (last time i missed one of his blow-outs it was a pair of the big NAIM monoblocs for $1300 CAD!!).
dave
Make your own
You can also take the example set by Phy-HP with their 12" co-ax (and you thot a Tannoy was pricey). Find a nice extended range driver, do a dustcapectomy, add a cylindrical phase plug (ie wood dowel) and mount a small footprint tweeter on the end of it. Phy uses a naked piezo, and the little Audax 10mm gold dome is quite nice.
I am trying this out with a Pioneer 8" whizzer-cone job -- struggling with the finish on the cabinets right now.
dave
You can also take the example set by Phy-HP with their 12" co-ax (and you thot a Tannoy was pricey). Find a nice extended range driver, do a dustcapectomy, add a cylindrical phase plug (ie wood dowel) and mount a small footprint tweeter on the end of it. Phy uses a naked piezo, and the little Audax 10mm gold dome is quite nice.
I am trying this out with a Pioneer 8" whizzer-cone job -- struggling with the finish on the cabinets right now.
dave
I have just finished working For Coca-Cola on a "Harry Potter Hogwarts Castle Experience" for 400 of your compatriots- I thought that that transfiguration potion was just water, but obviously not!!!
One of my dreams is to build a pair of TLs using the 15" monitor golds, but I have yet to find a pair to measure, to see if they would be suitable, ( and I would also need to move into a much larger house to fit the cabinets
)
Do you really want to spend big money
Do you really want to spend big money for the sort of project you are enbarking on. Any of the big co axials that have been mentioned will cost big money and need serious cabs. I do not picture this fitting your price or size range when looking at computer speakers.
I got good results from Pioneer car drivers at very reasonable prices. All car drivers have one serious flaw, they are very bright. This is a design requirement for the environment they are used in. Consider a simple pvc pipe TL with the drivers ceiling firing or mounted at a 45 degree angle to horizontal.
Have fun and goodluck.
Do you really want to spend big money for the sort of project you are enbarking on. Any of the big co axials that have been mentioned will cost big money and need serious cabs. I do not picture this fitting your price or size range when looking at computer speakers.
I got good results from Pioneer car drivers at very reasonable prices. All car drivers have one serious flaw, they are very bright. This is a design requirement for the environment they are used in. Consider a simple pvc pipe TL with the drivers ceiling firing or mounted at a 45 degree angle to horizontal.
Have fun and goodluck.
Re: Do you really want to spend big money
Good to see you here Shoog... tell them about your Tannoys :^)
A good point is made here. royalmp2001 mentions the Jensen car speakers which, i'm guessing, must be under $200*. If i were going for a car speaker, i'd either go for a full-range one or if a co-ax i'd want to be able to get at the XO on the tweeter to be able to use better parts & tweak the XO & levels.
* if indeed they are that much, being in the UK a set of Jordan JX92s would be very tempting for that kind of money.
dave
Shoog said:
Good to see you here Shoog... tell them about your Tannoys :^)
A good point is made here. royalmp2001 mentions the Jensen car speakers which, i'm guessing, must be under $200*. If i were going for a car speaker, i'd either go for a full-range one or if a co-ax i'd want to be able to get at the XO on the tweeter to be able to use better parts & tweak the XO & levels.
* if indeed they are that much, being in the UK a set of Jordan JX92s would be very tempting for that kind of money.
dave
Re: baby Tannoys
Hi Dave,
Sorry, I didn't see this post of yours before. My mother told me if I kept doing it I'd go blind.
The Saturns come in 6". 8" and 10" sizes, and are basically the range Tannoy made specifically aimed at the HT market. A dealer told me that they are very similar to the drive units in the D300 / 500 / 700 range, but with lower grade boxes and crossovers. They get very good reviews everywhere, and I found them very good sounding for the money, to the point that when I was decided on a set of D300's and I heard the S8's, I had a hard time deciding. Finding a set of 15" Golds solved my dilemna.
If you can get a set at a blowout price grab them. You have the knowledge to tweak them way beyond what they can do stock, or they'd make excellent office/bedroom speaks. You could listen to them for hours on end with zero fatigue.
Be glad you didn't get the Naims. You'd have to get an LP12 and some Linn speakers or else your toes wouldn't be able to tap in time with the music.
Cheers
planet10 said:
Hi Dave,
Sorry, I didn't see this post of yours before. My mother told me if I kept doing it I'd go blind.
The Saturns come in 6". 8" and 10" sizes, and are basically the range Tannoy made specifically aimed at the HT market. A dealer told me that they are very similar to the drive units in the D300 / 500 / 700 range, but with lower grade boxes and crossovers. They get very good reviews everywhere, and I found them very good sounding for the money, to the point that when I was decided on a set of D300's and I heard the S8's, I had a hard time deciding. Finding a set of 15" Golds solved my dilemna.
If you can get a set at a blowout price grab them. You have the knowledge to tweak them way beyond what they can do stock, or they'd make excellent office/bedroom speaks. You could listen to them for hours on end with zero fatigue.
Be glad you didn't get the Naims. You'd have to get an LP12 and some Linn speakers or else your toes wouldn't be able to tap in time with the music.
Cheers
Ok I know this thread is like 10 years old but what about SEAS?
THE ART OF SOUND PERFECTION BY SEAS - E0051-04/06 C16N001/F
about 10 years ago they had another 6" coax
http://www.seas.no/images/stories/vintage/pdfdataheet/h0723_t17rex_coaxf.pdf
THE ART OF SOUND PERFECTION BY SEAS - E0051-04/06 C16N001/F
about 10 years ago they had another 6" coax
http://www.seas.no/images/stories/vintage/pdfdataheet/h0723_t17rex_coaxf.pdf
I will try something from the PA side in the near future - the Beyma 8CX300ND. It is of the type with a horn that extends to the front. The disadvantage of this construction is the slightly more rugged frequency response. The advantage is that there might be less IMD due to the physical separation of the tweeter waveguide and the woofer cone.
Because I want to build a small closed-box active nearfield monitor it looks as if the IMD advantage might be more important for me than the frequency response disadvantage. Furthermore frequency-response aberration might be more easily corrected than IMD.
Regards
Charles
Because I want to build a small closed-box active nearfield monitor it looks as if the IMD advantage might be more important for me than the frequency response disadvantage. Furthermore frequency-response aberration might be more easily corrected than IMD.
Regards
Charles
The 8cx300nd seems very interesting indeed. I have the older, simpler 8bx in my main speakers and i am very happy with them. The 8cx seems like an interesting upgrade.
However, a quick simulation did show me that it seems difficult to get a good bass out of it in a BR box, certainly more difficult than with the 8bx, whose lower sensitivity of course helps for deep bass.
So my question is, how will you use it?
However, a quick simulation did show me that it seems difficult to get a good bass out of it in a BR box, certainly more difficult than with the 8bx, whose lower sensitivity of course helps for deep bass.
So my question is, how will you use it?
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