Audiolab Q-DAC

Hello

Thread created to document 'upgrades' to an Audiolab Q-DAC. Hopefully useful to others by the end

This is apparently the M-DACs poorer sibling, but it has proper 8 pin DIP output op-amps and enough functionality to also pose as a pre-amp

This thing wasn't super expensive on a well known auction site so I went for it. I swapped out my STAX DAC talent and the initial reaction was 'meh, well at least it works'

After a week or so of listening it was time to "pop the hood"

So Pictures!!

Andy
 

Attachments

  • Img_9541_post.jpg
    Img_9541_post.jpg
    618.6 KB · Views: 75
  • Img_9543_post.jpg
    Img_9543_post.jpg
    571.4 KB · Views: 70
  • dac1.jpg
    dac1.jpg
    248.3 KB · Views: 67
  • op1.jpg
    op1.jpg
    193.1 KB · Views: 69
  • cap1.jpg
    cap1.jpg
    208.8 KB · Views: 63
  • cap2.jpg
    cap2.jpg
    295.4 KB · Views: 62
  • cap3.jpg
    cap3.jpg
    320 KB · Views: 75
So here follows a slightly incomplete list of electrolytic Capacitors - MM means 'obstructed couldn't see the value' and I didn't bother with the USB daughterboard (it's 220at 16v)

470uF/6.3v on a 5v line? = 🤮

The polymer 4v ones around the DAC look fine though

CuFVolt
210004
410004
610004
810004
1010004
1210004
1410004
1610004
1810004
2010004
2210025
264706.3
294706.3
3110025
354706.3
414706.3
444706.3
4910004
5810025
6210025
6410025
67mmmm
694706.3
854706.3
874706.3
894706.3
1044706.3
1124706.3
138470016
140470016
14410025
14610025
1474706.3
152470016
153470016
162470016
166470016
187470025
188470025
189470025
19610025
2014706.3
2054706.3
2214706.3

things to do...

Andy
 
So

Fairly under whelming except that I seem to have missed a few caps from the shopping list

Burson op-amps because they are 1/2 price at the moment, I "relaxed" the connections on the surrounding film caps (aka re-soldered). Come on though make the flipping op-amps fit Burson!!

Now need to fully understand the pot - I have essentially zero DC on the output so functionally all good

Most importantly it sounds OK too, the thinness had gone but since it was about to go the full 'mission impossible' I guess its just been brought up/back to normal

Andy
 

Attachments

  • Img_9556.jpg
    Img_9556.jpg
    648.6 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_9558.JPG
    IMG_9558.JPG
    787.5 KB · Views: 31
Odd but old Lelon caps were known for premature failure (like Audiolab is for using such brands) and today's Lelon caps are OK. Question is when they changed to normal quality. Just to be sure and on the safe side I consider them to be OK after 2020. I saw many defective ones but never the polymer versions.

Did you actually compare the Burson with OPA134PA?

Good job BTW!
 
Last edited:
Odd but old Lelon caps were known for premature failure (like Audiolab is for using such brands) and today's Lelon caps are OK. Question is when they changed to normal quality. Just to be sure and on the safe side I consider them to be OK after 2020. I saw many defective ones but never the polymer versions.
It's hard to tell the date no obvious clue on the chassis - from 2013.
all the 470uf that were popping. it could even have been a bad batch or the DAC was kept somewhere warm.

Did you actually compare the Burson with OPA134PA?
No, Not yet, if it wasn't for the 'faff' of opening the case I'd be all over that (cue OPA627 etc) but its bound to happen. its the reason I looked for a 'Q' rather than an 'M'

I really don't mind the '134 series but this is really a case of replacements required and the Bursons were pretty cheap. They're pushing the V7 now so the V6 is the ugly sister?

Also this is for my first 'from a PC' streamer thing, so I don't really have a comparison just yet. I'm waiting to see if on-line convenience beats fanfare of putting little silver discs in a tray.

Andy
 
That's the USB daughterboard. I do not pretend to understand the clock magic there!
That USB board make minimum 50% work in DAC if using PC (but I think much more). Even that 12/13 or 24 Mhz crystal on XMOS matters a lot, another two we need to ring the schematics. Already started a project to swap those crap crystals:
 
...but it needed to design some small boards with clocks to put them on this 2 pin places...
Depending on the existing design, you could potentially make the sound end up worse by random hacking of clocks. Probably better if you could first find or else sketch up a schematic of the existing clocking design so it can be seen what else the crystals are connected to.

Clock and it's power source on USB/SPDIF receiver decides almost everything.
True to an extent, but often the clock is then buffered by a CPLD. Some improvement still comes through, but a lot can be lost by going through a CPLD.
 
Depending on the existing design, you could potentially make the sound end up worse by random hacking of clocks
Don't scare people to try and listen 🙂
True to an extent, but often the clock is then buffered by a CPLD.
The same improvent of clocks I hear in any places where it could be, with XMOS/SAVITECH/ComTrue. By the way, Savitech bravo (and ComTrue) with onboard PLL with good power supply and good clocks sounds very nice and I must say that developers of not expensive usb processors have reached a very good level. Not one XMOS
 
Replacing ordinary crystal with a clock requires other modifications as well.