i have a noob question here, can somebody advise me?
I'm using a meanwell dc-dc supply (I use the t-amp in my car) which is rated at 50W and 27V. Would this provide enough amperage for the TAA4100A?
If not, would it be possible for me to get another such unit, and parallel it to the t-amp?
Thanks in advance!
I'm using a meanwell dc-dc supply (I use the t-amp in my car) which is rated at 50W and 27V. Would this provide enough amperage for the TAA4100A?
If not, would it be possible for me to get another such unit, and parallel it to the t-amp?
Thanks in advance!
http://www.ecopacpower.com/dc_dc.html
Which one is it?
The amp can draw peaks of 11A!
Make sure the converter can deliver those peaks if you want to play loud....
About parallelling it I guess it depends on the circuitry in the supply, mail the manufacturer and ask them....
Which one is it?
The amp can draw peaks of 11A!

Make sure the converter can deliver those peaks if you want to play loud....
About parallelling it I guess it depends on the circuitry in the supply, mail the manufacturer and ask them....
Mines the SD-50, so its only 2.1A at 24V..
All higher models (SD-100 and above) requires an input voltage >19V
And darn, I thought these would work like batteries and I could just parallel them to get double the amps.. 😕
All higher models (SD-100 and above) requires an input voltage >19V
And darn, I thought these would work like batteries and I could just parallel them to get double the amps.. 😕
I'm not saying it's not possible, the datasheet is pretty limited on this (and other things..)...
Maybe the answer is allready there, mail the manufacturer or supplier...
My guess is that you can harmlessly try, the datasheet tells you can go over the rated current about 105 to 150% before the protection cuts the supply out completely. But it features auto-recovery...
The supply can probably deliver peaks higher than the rated 2.1A, musical signal makes the amp draw 11A peaks only very periodically....🙂
Maybe the answer is allready there, mail the manufacturer or supplier...
My guess is that you can harmlessly try, the datasheet tells you can go over the rated current about 105 to 150% before the protection cuts the supply out completely. But it features auto-recovery...
The supply can probably deliver peaks higher than the rated 2.1A, musical signal makes the amp draw 11A peaks only very periodically....🙂
questions questions....
http://www.ecopacpower.com/images/pdfs/SD-50.PDF
Is your TAA4100A used 2ch. or 4ch. by the way?
I'm not sure whether the in and out-puts share common grounds, maybe it's possible to take the 12V model twice and place them in series (that would be rated 4.2A)...?
http://www.ecopacpower.com/images/pdfs/SD-50.PDF
Is your TAA4100A used 2ch. or 4ch. by the way?
I'm not sure whether the in and out-puts share common grounds, maybe it's possible to take the 12V model twice and place them in series (that would be rated 4.2A)...?
I'm using 4 channels, my model is sd-50A-24, so the output voltage can range from 23-30V only..
I'll email the manufacturer and hope for a reply, thanks for your help!
btw, I'm trying to increase my amp supply because I notice that the dc-dc converter gives off a high-pitch whistling sound when the bass hits hard. This led me to believe that perhaps the power supply is being stressed out during the music peaks.. can some power supply guru confirm if my suspicion is valid? thanks! 😛
I'll email the manufacturer and hope for a reply, thanks for your help!
btw, I'm trying to increase my amp supply because I notice that the dc-dc converter gives off a high-pitch whistling sound when the bass hits hard. This led me to believe that perhaps the power supply is being stressed out during the music peaks.. can some power supply guru confirm if my suspicion is valid? thanks! 😛
I connected it to an SMPS today, they threw the unit in the trashcan at work (obsolete).
V-bro, I was very pleasantly surprised when I tried SMPS with the MC4x100. Did you notice a big improement over the battery supply?
It's also interesting that you can use this amp with your ESLs (albeit at a lower voltage)! 😉
It's a very unexpectedly great improvement!
I've tried really large SLA batteries, smaller ones and NI-CAD batteries, but they all seem to need greater recovery-time than the SMPS.
Sound appears to be a lot "faster" and more powerful. I would expect better (larger, faster) caps in the power supply can improve things a lot too, maybe even make the difference between batteries-SMPS smaller.
The NICADs sound very good for the first 20 minutes, almost as good as the SMPS, but quality deteriorates quickly...
Bass really rolls out of my woofers with such ease...😎 😎
I would have rendered it bull**** if I hadn't discovered it myself..😀
I've tried really large SLA batteries, smaller ones and NI-CAD batteries, but they all seem to need greater recovery-time than the SMPS.
Sound appears to be a lot "faster" and more powerful. I would expect better (larger, faster) caps in the power supply can improve things a lot too, maybe even make the difference between batteries-SMPS smaller.
The NICADs sound very good for the first 20 minutes, almost as good as the SMPS, but quality deteriorates quickly...
Bass really rolls out of my woofers with such ease...😎 😎
I would have rendered it bull**** if I hadn't discovered it myself..😀
Oh yes, and with my ESLs the amp never went into protection (even on 15V SMPS), this amp just keeps surprising me..😱 😱 😱
Not even at max output....🙂
Not even at max output....🙂
You're welcome Nuuk,
and welcome you and others to post some more pictures of the way they built it in a box... I will make some more detailed pictures of my humble creation..:holy:
another interesting thing, 41hz.com can deliver the TAA4100A chip if it might ever get damaged...😀 For 28 EUR. it's your's (ex.transp.).
I just ordered four of their new amp32 kits for portable use.😎😎😎
By the way the SMPS measures the same voltage at full power of the amp as is measured with no load at all...
It seems to be quite a "class A" supply...😕
I have two more different (more high power and with several outputs) SMPS that I also took out of the garbage at work. One seems to be damaged, the other may still have a chance to work... Still have to do some measurements...
and welcome you and others to post some more pictures of the way they built it in a box... I will make some more detailed pictures of my humble creation..:holy:
another interesting thing, 41hz.com can deliver the TAA4100A chip if it might ever get damaged...😀 For 28 EUR. it's your's (ex.transp.).
I just ordered four of their new amp32 kits for portable use.😎😎😎
By the way the SMPS measures the same voltage at full power of the amp as is measured with no load at all...
It seems to be quite a "class A" supply...😕
I have two more different (more high power and with several outputs) SMPS that I also took out of the garbage at work. One seems to be damaged, the other may still have a chance to work... Still have to do some measurements...

I can't post pictures of the MC4x100 I have here but you will be able to see them when the review appears on TNT.
I'm not that technical but I wonder if that is why the bass is so good when using an SMPS!
By the way the SMPS measures the same voltage at full power of the amp as is measured with no load at all...
I'm not that technical but I wonder if that is why the bass is so good when using an SMPS!

I DO think so, the supply appears to be able to react faster to current draws than a battery. The bass does sound a lot more precise!
Did quite extensive A/B testing by now and am quite convinced...
I don't know about normal transformer supply's on the amp yet though.. I just happened to stumble upon these...🙂
But my guess is the SMPS is better, normal supply's tend to measure higher voltage when they're not connected to a load. Which is what I figure a weakness to "keep up" and the quality will then depend more on "faster" supply buffer caps....
I guess it works like this:
The current draws of the amp are a "reflection" of the musical signal produced mono and inverted... The power supply has it's own way of "keeping up" delivering current that's been drawn away by this consumption.
The amp is constantly confronted with varying voltage/available current caused by itself.
I do think it's a matter of a certain minimal quality above which there's not much difference in sound. The difference between a battery and SMPS are dramatical, but at first I thought the battery sounded "warmer", but after a while I thought the SMPS is much less coloured/more natural. And most noticeable the much more punchy, though sopfisticated bass.

Did quite extensive A/B testing by now and am quite convinced...
I don't know about normal transformer supply's on the amp yet though.. I just happened to stumble upon these...🙂
But my guess is the SMPS is better, normal supply's tend to measure higher voltage when they're not connected to a load. Which is what I figure a weakness to "keep up" and the quality will then depend more on "faster" supply buffer caps....
I guess it works like this:
The current draws of the amp are a "reflection" of the musical signal produced mono and inverted... The power supply has it's own way of "keeping up" delivering current that's been drawn away by this consumption.
The amp is constantly confronted with varying voltage/available current caused by itself.
I do think it's a matter of a certain minimal quality above which there's not much difference in sound. The difference between a battery and SMPS are dramatical, but at first I thought the battery sounded "warmer", but after a while I thought the SMPS is much less coloured/more natural. And most noticeable the much more punchy, though sopfisticated bass.

By the way,
I' m very anxious to read that TNT review, would you happen to know when it comes out Nuuk?
What's your piece in the puzzle, do you write reviews? Did you write other reviews on TNT about T-amps? charlize, fenice, amp3, amp6...?
I' m very anxious to read that TNT review, would you happen to know when it comes out Nuuk?
What's your piece in the puzzle, do you write reviews? Did you write other reviews on TNT about T-amps? charlize, fenice, amp3, amp6...?
I hope to complete writing the review very soon and then it is up to the editor at TNT when it is published.
Yes, I wrote the article on the Charlize, Autocostruire 2020 etc. 😉
Yes, I wrote the article on the Charlize, Autocostruire 2020 etc. 😉
That review, aha! 😎
Very profound, and a nice read....
Please post a link to the review here by that time.
Very profound, and a nice read....
Please post a link to the review here by that time.

v-bro said:I
I do think it's a matter of a certain minimal quality above which there's not much difference in sound. The difference between a battery and SMPS are dramatical, but at first I thought the battery sounded "warmer", but after a while I thought the SMPS is much less coloured/more natural. And most noticeable the much more punchy, though sopfisticated bass.![]()
Be careful with your above statement. It heavily depends on the battery itself!!
My 2020 runs with a Northstar 90NSB. The battery has a 2mR ESR (what I consider as key characteristics) and 100Ah!
It gives you a lot of headroom. It's able to draw 4500A of short circuit current!
I tried quite some smaller batteries and SMPS before.
Your comments do apply for smaller and "older" batteries ( they are degrading over time). But not for above mentioned!
Of course 200$ for a battery is not really comparable to a nice
cheap SMPS.
Still when it comes to the sound, I never had a better setup. For
me the no compromise setup, if you get along with 12V or 24V.
Be careful with your above statement. It heavily depends on the battery itself!!
That's an excellent point and I have wondered if the small SLA's that I have tried are a fair representation of 'battery power'!
I know it is not a good idea to use a car battery 'inside' but for test purposes, I may try one. 😉
Nuuk said:
I know it is not a good idea to use a car battery 'inside' but for test purposes, I may try one. 😉
I am still alive! It's not a car battery though!
Before you try -- look up the specs. If the battery is used, I'd be careful anyhow. Otherwise you end up nowhere.
Make sure that the poles are clean. Take some sandpaper.
Small buffering might help 8*470uF, bypass with 0,47uF might also get you a step further.
It had Walker SST contact enhancemend around.
That helps even further.
Look for low resistance switches and connectors (e.g. Neutrik).
(Best result I ever heard is without them!! The drawn spark is kind of scary

Wires (silver solid core) should not be bigger than 0,6 or 0,8mm.
That's the way I fire my T2020.
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