Another question... when you turn the receiver on, whether via the front power switch, or the remote, the relays make a really loud "click." Is this normal for this amp? Like, it's so loud it's startling. I know all decent amps have relays for the purpose of soft starts, but this is like a whip crack, and you wonder "did I break anything?"
Yes, the click is loud and it's normal for them. They have a "smart" standby implemented by the EU regulations and if you turned them off with a remote you should also use the remote to turn them on ( I hope I got that right🙂 Later serial # of AVR350 had better implemented main board with properly spaced and soldered rectifier diodes and somewhat better caps (not by much). Those receivers suffer from early leadfree solder process. On couple of those old units I was able to pull the capacitors by hand. The solder joints were giving up so easily.
I would be interested in that standby correcting tweak.
I would be interested in that standby correcting tweak.
Interesting after reading that guy from Israel's writeup and your comments about the lead-free solder, I wonder if that may be part of the problem with some of the intermittent "popping" mine did--like a cold solder joint. Although I have to say it's not popping any more since I replaced the caps.
There are always lots of bad solder joints, not due to the solder, but mainly due to the heat.
I tried disconnecting the ribbon cables between the preamp riser cards and the amp boards, and the hum coming out of the speakers went away completely. I could tell the amp boards were still on-line because if I really cranked the volume I could hear just the faintest bit of amplifier hiss from the tweeter.
So I guess essentially the hum issue lies just in the preamp section, which means yes I think I missed some bad caps. Oh well, I'm gonna shelf this thing for a while and work on some other projects. Next time I'm going to make a digikey order, I'll scour the preamp boards for bad caps and try again.
And now my AVR 350 started dropping one channel . It comes back after I turn it off and on, stays for a while and goes away. It does that in direct and DSP mode so its not a DSP board issue. Meh , 🙂)
Check the audio sheilded audio cable sockets/connections to/from the main amp/preamp PCB. There are sometimes dry joints on these sockets that can cause channels to cut in and out.
Hi all
This is Menahem Yachad from CondorAudio in Jerusalem Israel.
I offer a full parts kit to repair the PSU issues.
And competent help if you get stuck.
Here is the kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/253485003032
Take 20% discount off the ebay price if you buy off ebay, direct from me.
Contact me at - yachadm ^t gmail d^t com - it's pretty obvious what you need to substitute in my e-address.
For success, all YOU need to bring to the table, is competent soldering skills, and a no-nonsense, no-excuses attitude.
Kits are also available for the AVR500, 600, and 850 series.
Normally, even though the DSP appears to be faulty, it's just fine.
The DSP doesn't function, simply because the defective PSU is delivering unstable current to the DSP.
Therefore, in the vast majority of cases, you do NOT need to replace the DSP IC, or the blue relays, or anything else.
The DSP is the SYMPTOM - as in all technology, fixing the symptom NEVER solves the problem.
You need the fix the CAUSE, and here, the CAUSE is the PSU (the Main horizontal Motherboard).
It's that simple.
Arcams repaired here, once and for all.
This is Menahem Yachad from CondorAudio in Jerusalem Israel.
I offer a full parts kit to repair the PSU issues.
And competent help if you get stuck.
Here is the kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/253485003032
Take 20% discount off the ebay price if you buy off ebay, direct from me.
Contact me at - yachadm ^t gmail d^t com - it's pretty obvious what you need to substitute in my e-address.
For success, all YOU need to bring to the table, is competent soldering skills, and a no-nonsense, no-excuses attitude.
Kits are also available for the AVR500, 600, and 850 series.
Normally, even though the DSP appears to be faulty, it's just fine.
The DSP doesn't function, simply because the defective PSU is delivering unstable current to the DSP.
Therefore, in the vast majority of cases, you do NOT need to replace the DSP IC, or the blue relays, or anything else.
The DSP is the SYMPTOM - as in all technology, fixing the symptom NEVER solves the problem.
You need the fix the CAUSE, and here, the CAUSE is the PSU (the Main horizontal Motherboard).
It's that simple.
Arcams repaired here, once and for all.