Hi cowanrg-
After BRIEFLY looking at the pictures I can tell you this now.
The plate looks VERY similar to my a/d/s/ plate amps I have. Same outside plate, same knobs, switches and so fourth. And I have traced out the circuitry on mine also.. It took a few months but it is a hobby, not a full time job.
The pwr supply and main amp are on the bottom in the silver enclosure.
The top board contains the "brains" of the unit.
There is a variable low-pass crossover, fixed hi-pass, the auto on circuitry, the trigger circuitry and finally the servo circuitry.
The servo controller part can be by-passed and the input signal (post processing) can be fed directly to the pwr amp.
I will try to find out what the 6 wires are for on the accelerometer.
I'm fairly sure one pair is power and ground to the device.
ASSUMING the accelerometer is an analog device it probably varies a control voltage in relationship to movement.
If it is a digital device then there is still pwr applied but the signal would not be voltage varied and that would be much more difficult to reverse engineer.
I will look through the pictures again to see if I can figure out the pins of the harness, and trace the signal from the input through to the exit of the top board to the amp.
Can you confirm that the computer ribbon cable on the side is what is transferring power and signal between the upper and lower modules?
After BRIEFLY looking at the pictures I can tell you this now.
The plate looks VERY similar to my a/d/s/ plate amps I have. Same outside plate, same knobs, switches and so fourth. And I have traced out the circuitry on mine also.. It took a few months but it is a hobby, not a full time job.
The pwr supply and main amp are on the bottom in the silver enclosure.
The top board contains the "brains" of the unit.
There is a variable low-pass crossover, fixed hi-pass, the auto on circuitry, the trigger circuitry and finally the servo circuitry.
The servo controller part can be by-passed and the input signal (post processing) can be fed directly to the pwr amp.
I will try to find out what the 6 wires are for on the accelerometer.
I'm fairly sure one pair is power and ground to the device.
ASSUMING the accelerometer is an analog device it probably varies a control voltage in relationship to movement.
If it is a digital device then there is still pwr applied but the signal would not be voltage varied and that would be much more difficult to reverse engineer.
I will look through the pictures again to see if I can figure out the pins of the harness, and trace the signal from the input through to the exit of the top board to the amp.
Can you confirm that the computer ribbon cable on the side is what is transferring power and signal between the upper and lower modules?
I concur (wasn't it obvious?) with your assessment, rabstg. I don't know where else the signals would come from, besides the ribbon cable.
One thing strikes me as odd, though: unless this is a PWM amplifier, it seems a litlle puny for a 3000W peak, unless the pictures are lieing and the scale is deceptive... The size of what looks to be both the rectifier bridge and the entire power secion is...smallish.
The little round blue guy next to the infamous 6 pin connector... is that a 10MHz oscillator? in that case, it just may be an entirely digital beast.
cowanrg: can you read the part numbers on the output devices? In DC00064, the picture of the guts of the bottom section, it is the row of big transistors on the right. If they are plain transistors it is one thing. If they are high-speed switching MOSFets it is possibly another sort of beast altogether!
What are the overall dimensions of the outside plate, for reference?
And what is the fuse rating?
One thing strikes me as odd, though: unless this is a PWM amplifier, it seems a litlle puny for a 3000W peak, unless the pictures are lieing and the scale is deceptive... The size of what looks to be both the rectifier bridge and the entire power secion is...smallish.
The little round blue guy next to the infamous 6 pin connector... is that a 10MHz oscillator? in that case, it just may be an entirely digital beast.
cowanrg: can you read the part numbers on the output devices? In DC00064, the picture of the guts of the bottom section, it is the row of big transistors on the right. If they are plain transistors it is one thing. If they are high-speed switching MOSFets it is possibly another sort of beast altogether!
What are the overall dimensions of the outside plate, for reference?
And what is the fuse rating?
Stocker-
"I don't know where else the signals would come from, besides the ribbon cable."
Exactly. Unknown equipment needs CONFIRMATION of facts. There could be cables missing, broken, removed for photo purposes....
State the known(obvious or not), list the facts, create a plan and then gather new information.. Repeat process until solution is found.
cowanrg-
If you’re trying to make these amps "useable" then bypass the servo circuitry and I will help as possible.
If your trying to reverse engineer the amp to clone it, good luck and I do not have time for another large project such as that.
Do you have a voltmeter and simple hand tools?
You mentioned that they power up but you have no knowledge of operation beyond that.
Please take a few pictures of the PCB's where the gray ribbon computer cable plugs in so we can find the pwr pins and the signal pins.
Most likely there will be a pwr ground and AC pwr since there appears to be an x-former and regulator circuitry on the top PCB.
Also a signal ground, a left and right signal wire.
The ribbon cable should be around 6 conductors.
If that is the case, then you could run RCA connectors directly to the signal inputs of the lower amp and have the unit ready for an EXTERNALLY crossed over signal. Such as the LFE from a surround processor. You will still need to pwr up the top PCB for house keeping functions (auto on and such).
Next I would like a picture of the entire top and bottom of the upper PCB. Zoom in so the PCB fills the picture but don't crop the edges. With that we can then start the circuit trace of the top PCB.
"I don't know where else the signals would come from, besides the ribbon cable."
Exactly. Unknown equipment needs CONFIRMATION of facts. There could be cables missing, broken, removed for photo purposes....
State the known(obvious or not), list the facts, create a plan and then gather new information.. Repeat process until solution is found.
cowanrg-
If you’re trying to make these amps "useable" then bypass the servo circuitry and I will help as possible.
If your trying to reverse engineer the amp to clone it, good luck and I do not have time for another large project such as that.
Do you have a voltmeter and simple hand tools?
You mentioned that they power up but you have no knowledge of operation beyond that.
Please take a few pictures of the PCB's where the gray ribbon computer cable plugs in so we can find the pwr pins and the signal pins.
Most likely there will be a pwr ground and AC pwr since there appears to be an x-former and regulator circuitry on the top PCB.
Also a signal ground, a left and right signal wire.
The ribbon cable should be around 6 conductors.
If that is the case, then you could run RCA connectors directly to the signal inputs of the lower amp and have the unit ready for an EXTERNALLY crossed over signal. Such as the LFE from a surround processor. You will still need to pwr up the top PCB for house keeping functions (auto on and such).
Next I would like a picture of the entire top and bottom of the upper PCB. Zoom in so the PCB fills the picture but don't crop the edges. With that we can then start the circuit trace of the top PCB.
oops, yes its a dual 4-pin connector, so its 8 pins. im not sure how many are actually connected though. ill get some better pictures of that.
rabstg,
you have some good information! i will get you all the numbers and detailed pictures i can when i get home from work.
i am just simply trying to get them to work with a normal driver, so bypassing the servo mechanism is all im after, i have no desire to clone this amp at all. using it as a bass amp that is externally crossed over is perfect.
as far as tools go, i have a few things. click the link on my profile and goto "my shop" on my site. i have a few meters, hand tools, power tools, etc... i should have everything i need.
Stocker,
i will get you what you need tonight as well. the fuse is a decent-size one. cant remember the value, but it was pretty big. the caps are 830uf 200V IIRC.
rabstg,
you have some good information! i will get you all the numbers and detailed pictures i can when i get home from work.
i am just simply trying to get them to work with a normal driver, so bypassing the servo mechanism is all im after, i have no desire to clone this amp at all. using it as a bass amp that is externally crossed over is perfect.
as far as tools go, i have a few things. click the link on my profile and goto "my shop" on my site. i have a few meters, hand tools, power tools, etc... i should have everything i need.
Stocker,
i will get you what you need tonight as well. the fuse is a decent-size one. cant remember the value, but it was pretty big. the caps are 830uf 200V IIRC.
cowanrg-
Yes the pwr caps are most likely at line voltage (117VAC).
I think the pwr supply is not using a step down transformer and the toroid that is in the center is for dc-dc purposes.
If you don't need the on board cross-over, then find out which wires on the ribbon cable are the amp signal input leads and then tie them directly to the RCA jacks.
That will make the amp a full-range amp playing up to the high frequency limit of the amp.
I would defiantly use an external cross-over so there is no oscillation in the amp that may occur from running a full range signal.
I am somewhat suprised and alarmed that they ran the signal cable next to the pwr circuitry on the lower module... I think the expense of another cable directly to the PA section would have been justified.
Please still get the front and back picture of the top PCB.
Edit: With those tools you should be able to clone this amp...
Nice shop. Clean.
Yes the pwr caps are most likely at line voltage (117VAC).
I think the pwr supply is not using a step down transformer and the toroid that is in the center is for dc-dc purposes.
If you don't need the on board cross-over, then find out which wires on the ribbon cable are the amp signal input leads and then tie them directly to the RCA jacks.
That will make the amp a full-range amp playing up to the high frequency limit of the amp.
I would defiantly use an external cross-over so there is no oscillation in the amp that may occur from running a full range signal.
I am somewhat suprised and alarmed that they ran the signal cable next to the pwr circuitry on the lower module... I think the expense of another cable directly to the PA section would have been justified.
Please still get the front and back picture of the top PCB.
Edit: With those tools you should be able to clone this amp...
Nice shop. Clean.
rabstg,
it appears like the ribbon cable carries both power and signal between the pre-amp and amp sections. the power inlet goes straight to the amp board, then to a fuse, thermistor i think, then to the rectifiers, etc...
the ribbon cable is the only thing connecting the pre-amp and amp, and the input goes straight into the pre-amp. so that ribbon cable MUST carry both power and signal.
ill get you some pictures when i get home from a boring day at work. hopefully these things can run just as an amp section alone. making a small xover for them would be cake, and then i could finally make the little powered speakers ive always wanted for my bedroom
it appears like the ribbon cable carries both power and signal between the pre-amp and amp sections. the power inlet goes straight to the amp board, then to a fuse, thermistor i think, then to the rectifiers, etc...
the ribbon cable is the only thing connecting the pre-amp and amp, and the input goes straight into the pre-amp. so that ribbon cable MUST carry both power and signal.
ill get you some pictures when i get home from a boring day at work. hopefully these things can run just as an amp section alone. making a small xover for them would be cake, and then i could finally make the little powered speakers ive always wanted for my bedroom
Once again rabstg you are correct; I didn't mean to ruffle any feathers! Yes, it would be quite a project to reverse engineer the whole thing but I have lots of little pieces of spare time. With a nearly unlimited supply, I wasn't thinking he wanted to do some cloning, more just making them to work at home for himselfrabstg said:
Cowanrg: A little amplified system indeed. Little enough to wake the neighbours but not knock holes in your house?
If the ribbon cable has a surplus of conductors, there could be a couple of dummies for the sake of separating power from signal wires by just a couple of mm. On closer inspection there are 10 ( ! ) conductors there... either it's a lot of separation space or a more complexity. On the top of the board, there appears to be 4 or 6 traces coming from there.Can we get a photo of the other side of the power amp PCB? /edit: oh yes, get a good shot of both sides of where the ribbon cable connects to the top PCB, or at least make sure they are included in the photos of the whole board.
Any word on getting the sensor off the woofer?
Playing the amp full-range might be ok, actually pretty nice! But surely you'd want to put an o'scope on the outputs the first time you run it full range. But what a stereo pair that could make! For just running Low frequency, it seems a bit of a shame to "waste" all the functions of the upper PCB which seem rather nice for a sub amp, just for the sake of getting them running quickly. That all assumes also that the power amp isn't ClassD, controlled by the upper board.
You say the PSU looks small for the power rating, I know that some subwoofers from the USA use the mains supply directly, after rectification of course. Maybe the Velodyne unit does this. Isolation from the mains is achieved somewhere in the signal prosessing preamp part. It must be deemed ok with your 110v system, but would be scarry with our 240v.
There's a chip with many legs in the photos, what is that?
There's a chip with many legs in the photos, what is that?
That's what the comment rabstg's comment about the DC-DC bit with the transformer and line voltage on the caps was about. For sure, don't try this one at 240 unless V. says so!
The big chip is a big questionmark right now. Are you referring to the one on the upper PCB? It could be a processor, microcontroller, EEPROM, ClassD driver, a bunch of transistors, resistors, optocouplers, anything!
By the way cowanrg, can we get a part number off that big chip or a photo of it sans label? Careful not to remove the label under UV or fluorescent light! Wouldn't want to erase it if it's an EPROM.
The big chip is a big questionmark right now. Are you referring to the one on the upper PCB? It could be a processor, microcontroller, EEPROM, ClassD driver, a bunch of transistors, resistors, optocouplers, anything!
By the way cowanrg, can we get a part number off that big chip or a photo of it sans label? Careful not to remove the label under UV or fluorescent light! Wouldn't want to erase it if it's an EPROM.
Stocker,
you mentioned something about having that chip under UV or flourescent lights could erase it? ive never heard that before... if its still intact in the board, does that hurt it? all the lights in my shop are tube flourescent lights (like 5 of them!). im not sure how this can erase the chip...
im taking pics and measurements now. i will also document as many chip models as i can.
you mentioned something about having that chip under UV or flourescent lights could erase it? ive never heard that before... if its still intact in the board, does that hurt it? all the lights in my shop are tube flourescent lights (like 5 of them!). im not sure how this can erase the chip...
im taking pics and measurements now. i will also document as many chip models as i can.
I would wager a bet that the IC is either an Atmel or PIC Microcontroller. Especially since there is a crystal can next to it.
The amplifier looks small because it's a modified Class D. I noticed this immedaitely as the IR series Mosfet Driver stood out (right hand side). Probably an IR2127 or something.
The amplifier looks small because it's a modified Class D. I noticed this immedaitely as the IR series Mosfet Driver stood out (right hand side). Probably an IR2127 or something.
ok, here is what i found out (i hope im doing good here). ill post pics after this post...
first, the amp board measures 7.5" x ~4".
the ribbon connector between the two boards is a 10-pin connector, and it looks like pin 1, 10, and 5 are power? possibly... but it is a 10-pin, and all are connected to SOMETHING. certainly power feeds from the amp board to the pre-amp via 2-3 pins and goes straight to its transformer and rectifier.
the fets on the amp board are IRFP350's, congrats to EnvisionAudio. there are 6 of them as you can see.
the fuse is a MDA12, from bussmann's website, it tells me that is is a time-delay ceramic fuse, 12A, 250V.
the accelerometer connector is an 8-pin (not sure where i got 6-pin from). however, from what i can tell, only about 5 pins are actually connected to anything? i cant really tell without desoldering the connector, i cant tell if there are traces that run beneath it. but there are at least 1 or two that arent connected.
the blue can that Stocker asked about appears to be an inductor. "10MH" is printed on the top, and "L1" is silkscreened on the board right beside it.
now what you all have been waiting for... the big chip is a phillips, S87C751-1N24 (and on the bottom row), 2266S38 9644hF. a quick google search tells me thats a microcontroller.
there are 3 TI tl074c opamps on board, and the only one that kinda stands out is a phillips SA572D chip, google tells me its a dual-channel, high performance gain control. maybe that doesnt help after all...
well, im gonna resize and crop the pictures now, ill post those right after i get done doing that.
first, the amp board measures 7.5" x ~4".
the ribbon connector between the two boards is a 10-pin connector, and it looks like pin 1, 10, and 5 are power? possibly... but it is a 10-pin, and all are connected to SOMETHING. certainly power feeds from the amp board to the pre-amp via 2-3 pins and goes straight to its transformer and rectifier.
the fets on the amp board are IRFP350's, congrats to EnvisionAudio. there are 6 of them as you can see.
the fuse is a MDA12, from bussmann's website, it tells me that is is a time-delay ceramic fuse, 12A, 250V.
the accelerometer connector is an 8-pin (not sure where i got 6-pin from). however, from what i can tell, only about 5 pins are actually connected to anything? i cant really tell without desoldering the connector, i cant tell if there are traces that run beneath it. but there are at least 1 or two that arent connected.
the blue can that Stocker asked about appears to be an inductor. "10MH" is printed on the top, and "L1" is silkscreened on the board right beside it.
now what you all have been waiting for... the big chip is a phillips, S87C751-1N24 (and on the bottom row), 2266S38 9644hF. a quick google search tells me thats a microcontroller.
there are 3 TI tl074c opamps on board, and the only one that kinda stands out is a phillips SA572D chip, google tells me its a dual-channel, high performance gain control. maybe that doesnt help after all...
well, im gonna resize and crop the pictures now, ill post those right after i get done doing that.
i did us a favor and labeled the pics this time, so we can tell if we looking at the back or top of the preamp or amp...
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/8pin_top.jpg
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/8pin_bottom.jpg
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/amp_top.jpg
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/amp_bottom.jpg
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/preamp_top.jpg
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/preamp_bottom.jpg
oh, im still messing with my new digital camera. so if anyone sees something picture quality wise, and has some suggestions, let me know. it has pretty much full manual operations, and i dont have all the settings down any suggestions would help, im sure the camera can take much better pictures.
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/8pin_top.jpg
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/8pin_bottom.jpg
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/amp_top.jpg
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/amp_bottom.jpg
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/preamp_top.jpg
http://www.cowanrg.mesanetworks.net/projects/images/velodyne/preamp_bottom.jpg
oh, im still messing with my new digital camera. so if anyone sees something picture quality wise, and has some suggestions, let me know. it has pretty much full manual operations, and i dont have all the settings down
any suggestions would help, im sure the camera can take much better pictures.Well right off the bat, the resolution of the images and clarity are both good. The problem is getting a shot of all of each of the PCBs, both sides. Maybe a panoramic composite shot.
On 8pintop, it looks like the lines for power to the 8pin connector are also power for the TL074 right there too, under the TL074. Without a multimeter it is going to be guesswork as to what exactly is conected to where under all the components and this is one example. I am going to take a wild guess and say that the sensor is likely giving an output voltage proportional to the position of the cone and that the little blue pot right by the 8pin is for zero-position calibration.
The 10pin on the amp side is even more mysterious... they weren't thinking of our guessing how this amp works when they buried the traces under the Big Capacitors! Do those traces (not likely) come straight out the other side or do they turn under the caps? Are those 2 green things next to the label for C18(?) fuses as the f3 label leads me to think may be possible or are they resistors right around 100 ohms each? It would make sense either way if the wire they go to is supplying 110V to the preamp PCB. Again we need the ohmmeter to see what goes where. At least it is easy enough to guess that the one pin going to the big trace on the bottom of the amp. PCB is probably ground.
On the top, the two pins by the J5 silkskreening appear to be where 110V come into the preamp and one of the ones on other side of the connector by the red stripe is likely to be ground, judging by the size of the trace to which it connects. Other than that we are in the same boat as with the power amp. end of things.
You can see why this is a project for somebody with a LOT of time on their hands to figure out what goes where. I am starting to get a sneaking suspicion that the reason they were unafraid to run 120VAC 60Hz on the same ribbon with data is that the data signal is a PWM thingy with maybe a level control as well. That would rule out the idea of hooking RCA inputs right to the amplifier PCB but the amplifers may definately still be useable...if they work in the first place, that is. Just need to see where the signal input from the sensor and the RCA inputs go into the modulator. Well, we need to see where the signal comes out of the processing chain and THEN into the modulator. /edit the processing chain might be digital... but the pots look awfully analog.
/edit: this would be much faster if we were all getting in each others' way with our multimeters and bonking our heads together trying to look at stuff.
Well, with 4 of them, we could avoid bonking heads, I guess, but we would probably still get in each others' way!
On 8pintop, it looks like the lines for power to the 8pin connector are also power for the TL074 right there too, under the TL074. Without a multimeter it is going to be guesswork as to what exactly is conected to where under all the components and this is one example. I am going to take a wild guess and say that the sensor is likely giving an output voltage proportional to the position of the cone and that the little blue pot right by the 8pin is for zero-position calibration.
The 10pin on the amp side is even more mysterious... they weren't thinking of our guessing how this amp works when they buried the traces under the Big Capacitors! Do those traces (not likely) come straight out the other side or do they turn under the caps? Are those 2 green things next to the label for C18(?) fuses as the f3 label leads me to think may be possible or are they resistors right around 100 ohms each? It would make sense either way if the wire they go to is supplying 110V to the preamp PCB. Again we need the ohmmeter to see what goes where. At least it is easy enough to guess that the one pin going to the big trace on the bottom of the amp. PCB is probably ground.
On the top, the two pins by the J5 silkskreening appear to be where 110V come into the preamp and one of the ones on other side of the connector by the red stripe is likely to be ground, judging by the size of the trace to which it connects. Other than that we are in the same boat as with the power amp. end of things.
You can see why this is a project for somebody with a LOT of time on their hands to figure out what goes where. I am starting to get a sneaking suspicion that the reason they were unafraid to run 120VAC 60Hz on the same ribbon with data is that the data signal is a PWM thingy with maybe a level control as well. That would rule out the idea of hooking RCA inputs right to the amplifier PCB but the amplifers may definately still be useable...if they work in the first place, that is. Just need to see where the signal input from the sensor and the RCA inputs go into the modulator. Well, we need to see where the signal comes out of the processing chain and THEN into the modulator. /edit the processing chain might be digital... but the pots look awfully analog.
/edit: this would be much faster if we were all getting in each others' way with our multimeters and bonking our heads together trying to look at stuff.
Well, with 4 of them, we could avoid bonking heads, I guess, but we would probably still get in each others' way!
Velodyne circuits
Without going into a lot of detail or reviewing the pictures here is what is current practise in high power plate amps:
1) The amps are usually class H, meaning a variable HV from a switching supply. Saves a lot of power at the cost of complexity.
2) A microprocessor is used to control the system. The latest stuff from Velodyne has a multiband eq with a computer interface. I don't know if this model has that feature.
3) Velodyne may have some switching amps in the newest products.
4) It would be very difficult to get UL approval of a plate amp with no isolation from the line. A short from voice coil to frame (common problem) would cause a serious shock hazard.
4a) The Sunfire amps were also class H or something like it, and had a reputation for burning up and shocking owners. I believe they have been fixed by now.
5) To get good performance from the accelerometer there will be a lot of eq for the main audio and the accelerometer. Its also necessary for stability. This would be unique for each driver model.
6) Velodyne uses some solid-state accelerometer technology. A piezo type like a B&K is way too expensive. There was something from the past that worked well enough. The device needs power, the reason for all of the wires. They introduced this technology 20 years ago, before MEMS technology.
I hope these offer some clues into your quest. It may be quicker easier and possibly cheaper to get some big plate amps from Parts Express. But not as much fun as this quest.
I looked at the pictures; the amp is probably a switcher, the toroid runs at HF and isolates the line from the load. The two smaller donuts are the LP filter for the amp output. The transformer on the preamp board handles the rest of the power isolation. And the amp shuts down under processor control so a seperate supply is needed for the preamp. The can around the amp is to meet FCC radiation. The 4 conductors for the accelerometer are +/- gnd and signal. The pot on the adapter is to match level or at least to reduce gain if its close to oscillation. This still is a major project to massage. However the amp should work with the accerometer disconnected.
-Demian
Without going into a lot of detail or reviewing the pictures here is what is current practise in high power plate amps:
1) The amps are usually class H, meaning a variable HV from a switching supply. Saves a lot of power at the cost of complexity.
2) A microprocessor is used to control the system. The latest stuff from Velodyne has a multiband eq with a computer interface. I don't know if this model has that feature.
3) Velodyne may have some switching amps in the newest products.
4) It would be very difficult to get UL approval of a plate amp with no isolation from the line. A short from voice coil to frame (common problem) would cause a serious shock hazard.
4a) The Sunfire amps were also class H or something like it, and had a reputation for burning up and shocking owners. I believe they have been fixed by now.
5) To get good performance from the accelerometer there will be a lot of eq for the main audio and the accelerometer. Its also necessary for stability. This would be unique for each driver model.
6) Velodyne uses some solid-state accelerometer technology. A piezo type like a B&K is way too expensive. There was something from the past that worked well enough. The device needs power, the reason for all of the wires. They introduced this technology 20 years ago, before MEMS technology.
I hope these offer some clues into your quest. It may be quicker easier and possibly cheaper to get some big plate amps from Parts Express. But not as much fun as this quest.
I looked at the pictures; the amp is probably a switcher, the toroid runs at HF and isolates the line from the load. The two smaller donuts are the LP filter for the amp output. The transformer on the preamp board handles the rest of the power isolation. And the amp shuts down under processor control so a seperate supply is needed for the preamp. The can around the amp is to meet FCC radiation. The 4 conductors for the accelerometer are +/- gnd and signal. The pot on the adapter is to match level or at least to reduce gain if its close to oscillation. This still is a major project to massage. However the amp should work with the accerometer disconnected.
-Demian
Stocker,
thanks for the comments, and ill get some FULL pictures of both bottom and top of both parts. should i desolder some things so we an see better?
1audio,
this is not the DD series, its from the SPL or HGS family, which is still current, but just not the DD series. it doesnt have advanced eq'ing or video display, etc... its just a basic (well, not TOO basic), plate amp.
this amp is used for pretty much their full line, except their lower end stuff. which is possibly class d stuff.
but once again, im not planning on using any of this stuff. i just want to have a higher powered amp that i can add my own crossover and volume to, thats it.
thanks for the comments, and ill get some FULL pictures of both bottom and top of both parts. should i desolder some things so we an see better?
1audio,
this is not the DD series, its from the SPL or HGS family, which is still current, but just not the DD series. it doesnt have advanced eq'ing or video display, etc... its just a basic (well, not TOO basic), plate amp.
this amp is used for pretty much their full line, except their lower end stuff. which is possibly class d stuff.
but once again, im not planning on using any of this stuff. i just want to have a higher powered amp that i can add my own crossover and volume to, thats it.
My advice is to hold off on desoldering things until we have a good look at what needs to come off, so that nearby components will not be unneccessarily put at risk from radiated heat, and the PCBs will not be too "worked"...maybe you haven't reworked PCBs often enough to lift solder pads with the soldering iron, but I have. 
The only exceptions to that advice will be for now the big caps on the amplifier PCB and the transformer on the preamp PCB. See also if you can get all that nasty glommed-on glue off the amplifier board without tearing it all up. I hope you have been already, but do try to do all the working/handling of both the boards with good ESD prevention measures in place. If not, at least handle them by the edges! With regular discrete stuff I don't usually bother, but who knows what might kill the big chip. If you do pull those parts, can you make a note on the image which terminal was labelled how? If they are in the way, you might remove the RCA input/output wires and label what they were, and their polarities.
One thing to note in taking the photos is that the flash can obscure some circuit traces entirely...try to take them in a very bright environment without a flash if you can.
The only exceptions to that advice will be for now the big caps on the amplifier PCB and the transformer on the preamp PCB. See also if you can get all that nasty glommed-on glue off the amplifier board without tearing it all up. I hope you have been already, but do try to do all the working/handling of both the boards with good ESD prevention measures in place. If not, at least handle them by the edges! With regular discrete stuff I don't usually bother, but who knows what might kill the big chip. If you do pull those parts, can you make a note on the image which terminal was labelled how? If they are in the way, you might remove the RCA input/output wires and label what they were, and their polarities.One thing to note in taking the photos is that the flash can obscure some circuit traces entirely...try to take them in a very bright environment without a flash if you can.
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