Of course!
1) 100-240 AC/12V-13A DC: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32886602726.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802h0O6Nm
2) Inverter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32688618917.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802h0O6Nm
3) Step down: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08DKQB1L6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There is a bit more info here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/photo-gallery.71300/post-6994411
The inverter has 110-200-220-280 output switch, both AC and DC without capacitor. I use a doubler to get higher voltages.
I can only vouch for this one, with the black heatsinks.
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Has anyone tried this one? 180 - 220 - 380Vac 500W
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125492412941
It will for sure need heatsinks.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125492412941
It will for sure need heatsinks.
SMPS work by transferring energy from the primary to the secondary of a 20-400KHz transformer. At currents over 25% they operate in continuous mode where the flux in the transformer never goes to zero. At very low loads the On time of the main switching fet becomes too small. The controller goes into either cycle slip or burst mode depending on type. In this mode the output is noisy and may contain audible components. Thus try and avoid <25% load unless the SMPS is designed for this use. For heater supply use an SMPS with twice the current rating. Cold heaters take alot of current and the SMPS may do several starts before running - rather like an old car.
Looked at that one in Aliexpress, and decided against is because of the lack of radiators. The first time I ordered this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003481711456.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802ZwzKuZ
and it died after 10 min loaded by a 50W bulb.
Aliexpress currently delivers to the UK in 2 weeks typically, where are you based?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003481711456.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802ZwzKuZ
and it died after 10 min loaded by a 50W bulb.
Aliexpress currently delivers to the UK in 2 weeks typically, where are you based?
Yes. It will run a 30W to 50W tube amp for years... 100W amp for months...
Better version:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165629702237
Better version:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165629702237
If you want to chop at 60Hz, it's probably great. Heat sink the FETs for better stability.Looked at that one in Aliexpress, and decided against is because of the lack of radiators. The first time I ordered this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003481711456.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802ZwzKuZ
and it died after 10 min loaded by a 50W bulb.
Aliexpress currently delivers to the UK in 2 weeks typically, where are you based?
I should really stress test the one I use. It runs at 37kHz since I want DC anyway.
Got a similar one, rated at 1KW, meaning probably 500W, but have not used it yet:Yes. It will run a 30W to 50W tube amp for years... 100W amp for months...
Better version:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165629702237
They are HF square wave output so you will need some fast rectifiers.
The small one comes with HER208, and I got a bunch of HER308 after @kodabmx advice, they are quite cheap.They are HF square wave output so you will need some fast rectifiers
Yes. And I'm sure there are many faster, better rectifiers available. They are beyond the point of diminishing returns IMHO.
UF5408 will also be fine.
UF5408 will also be fine.
Yep the caps won't need to be that big but low ESR. You may need a small common mode choke after the main caps to stop the HF waveform getting into your analog or radio for that matter. The input may well need the same treatment there's no EMC filtering on board.
It makes clean enough DC for me to use it to power phono stage heaters and B+ from boost.
The caps just fail because the heatsink gets HOT. There are probably better diodes to use.
The caps just fail because the heatsink gets HOT. There are probably better diodes to use.
It will be the energy will be at the switching frequency and its harmonics. However it will get all over your cables. Not a problem if EMC does not bother you. It's one reason why it's cheap.
The cables are outside... The box is inside a grounded chassis... Maybe you can find noise from it on some test equipment, but my ears say it's cleaner than the linear version I made.
Yep it will be fine in the audio band better than the hum you often get. It's not a criticism. It's just going to create some other radio interference. The mains one have to have bultin EMC filters.
It might, but not if you treat it properly... If you don't ground it, you find lots of RF garbage 🙂
LOL That entire band is useless in this apartment. Just 60Hz buzz - Even if I kill the power and try a battery powered radio. AM is on the way out because electric cars don't agree with it.
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