i got inspired by their waveguided tweeters so i tried some, and they did perform far worse then on their sites, so i am not a big fan
For standard levels at close distances of 1-1.5m then yes. For distances of 2.0-4m it would be more like 1 x 10"-12" or 2 x 6.5"-8" (i.e. the size of typical "midfield" monitors).
With a 2 way going larger than a 6.5" midwoofer is starting to ask a lot from the high frequency end of the midwoofer and/or the low frequency end of the tweeter. If you need to displace more air a 3 way starts to become the preferred option (or possibly multiple midwoofers in a 2.5 way configuration).
If budget constraints are of some concern, the room is of modest size and possibly listening at a touch less than standard levels OK then something like a 6.5" midwoofer with a 1" tweeter in a waveguide with supporting subs looks a reasonable configuration to me. I would prefer 3 ways with larger woofers but this will only become viable with a larger budget.
It all depends..... cause what is a large or small budget?
If I had to start over now.... I'd much rather use a cheap used speaker, and modify it with a 2 or 3 way plateamp.... simply avoiding all kinds of amplifiers, pre-amps and the like. A couple of Hypex plateamps and some old speakers is almost cheaper than most typical single piece of hifi-gear. Even if you have to buy an old laptop, microphone and other stuff, to measure the thing.
I would gladly go with HypeX Fusion amps, but they are quite expensive...
In any case, using active XO is not out of the question... I can always go with a DIY design with active XO. For example the famous HTM-12 from DIYSG was recently reviewed by Erin from Erins Audio Corner:
DIYSG HTM-12v1 Speaker Review
The XO on V1 was not very good due to inconsistencies in the production of the CD, but if you take a closer look distortion measurements and directivity control are really really good... so pair it with a Fusion Amp a whole weekend measuring the speaker, and you will get a very good speaker...
andy19191, my listening distance is between 1.5 and 2meters, so I concur with what you say and will take the recommendation. Obviously a 3-way would be better, but 3-way crossover design is way above my knowledge.
In any case, using active XO is not out of the question... I can always go with a DIY design with active XO. For example the famous HTM-12 from DIYSG was recently reviewed by Erin from Erins Audio Corner:
DIYSG HTM-12v1 Speaker Review
The XO on V1 was not very good due to inconsistencies in the production of the CD, but if you take a closer look distortion measurements and directivity control are really really good... so pair it with a Fusion Amp a whole weekend measuring the speaker, and you will get a very good speaker...
andy19191, my listening distance is between 1.5 and 2meters, so I concur with what you say and will take the recommendation. Obviously a 3-way would be better, but 3-way crossover design is way above my knowledge.
3 way passive can be a complicated.... but active...... you "just" measure an extra driver and level match.... not that difficult, actually.
Here in DK you pay the same for 2 x 3 way Hypex Fusion - as for 2 BE domes + two 6" Satori.
I'd rather have much cheaper drivers + the active solution. I mean... you also save money for amplifiers and complicated passive speakers, that are maybe not that good to begin with. The active solution might require some learning.... but to me, it's absolutely worth the effort 🙂
Measured in the middle of the room.... far away from most things and with a pillow on the floor at first reflections?
As far as I know, Alexander used to measure his speakers under rather good conditions.... and I did not find it hard to replicate.... at least with the DXT 🙂
How much is the FusionAmp FA123 and FA122 in Denmark?
If one could get one of those for around USD$300 it would be very tempting, and implement them with a good DIY speaker.
If one could get one of those for around USD$300 it would be very tempting, and implement them with a good DIY speaker.
In terms of sound quality for the money the line between 2 ways and 3 ways being the better choice lies roughly around the cost of a 3 way using standard range drivers, standard active/passive crossover plus conventional cabinet cost. There can of course be other relevant factors like size, complexity, interest, desirabiliyt,... which may shift the line for particular cases.
The argument rests on competently designed 3 ways with more appropriately sized drivers requiring smaller displacements generating lower levels of distortion, smaller passbands generating less cone breakup, smoother directivities,... tending to exceed the benefits of more expensive premium drivers of equivalently priced 2 ways.
How big a baffle can you attach to it or flush mount to it? Extend to the floor and/or wall?
Again, first reflections are gated out. See impulse response.
Reflections will cause comb filtering, not overall "smiley face" tonal balance shifts of 6-7 db.
Assumed as much. 😉
We're most acute in width, so if directly above the TV to make the CC 'baffle' and ideally the L/R drivers will be at the same height and at least the same width also, then even if the CC 'baffle' has less area it will still be significantly lower in frequency and if it's a relatively narrow TV, then in short, the ideal goal is a false sound wall same as behind a cinema's screen or as close as you can manage WRT budget, WAF, etc..
Regardless of what you decide size wise, it need not be expensive, 3/4" drywall with a minimal framing lumber 'stand' is plenty rigid/massive enough for several 4" woofers.
We're most acute in width, so if directly above the TV to make the CC 'baffle' and ideally the L/R drivers will be at the same height and at least the same width also, then even if the CC 'baffle' has less area it will still be significantly lower in frequency and if it's a relatively narrow TV, then in short, the ideal goal is a false sound wall same as behind a cinema's screen or as close as you can manage WRT budget, WAF, etc..
Regardless of what you decide size wise, it need not be expensive, 3/4" drywall with a minimal framing lumber 'stand' is plenty rigid/massive enough for several 4" woofers.
My experience was different. I had pretty good success with their adapter plate + Peerless DX25 + Waveguide WG-300.
I found my measured response to be similar enough to Heissmann's.
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I’ve been thinking about the Cinetor also. Where did you buy the WG-300 in the US? Been having teouble sourcing that part.
WG-300
I purchased a pair off e-bay sold by a shop called "gersbach-sound-technik.shopuser" - but I don't see them listed anymore.
I purchased a pair off e-bay sold by a shop called "gersbach-sound-technik.shopuser" - but I don't see them listed anymore.
I got the same result. Identical to Heissmann's. But finished speaker was all but identical.
Definitely mount the speaker in an infinite baffle and make them flat with the wall, makes a lot of sense SQ... my only concern is upgrading the speakers... you are kind of limited with the "hole" / cavity you made for your previous speaker.
Which speaker design did you built?
You built the Cinetor EVO, right? Do you have pictures?
Been there, done that, so made a large enough cutout to accept his existing floor-standers and later made overlapping baffle inserts for the AR3 speakers he had been saving for.
Once installed with neoprene gasketing, strips of premium density felt carpet underlayment was 'ringed' around this 3/4" 'step', but frankly, not even his wife's [then] super keen hearing couldn't tell the difference.
Once installed with neoprene gasketing, strips of premium density felt carpet underlayment was 'ringed' around this 3/4" 'step', but frankly, not even his wife's [then] super keen hearing couldn't tell the difference.
Hello Defo
As this looks way outside of normal drivers or parts variance I would guess, there is/was something wrong. ~-5dB @ crossoverpoint is just too much.
If you feel like, you could send me raw driver measurements per mail (Impedance + FR without crossover) and I would analyze that.
Best regards
Alexander