Thank you so much for the information so far. It's also nice to see a fellow 9300 owner. 🙂
If I did remove the AG layer, I wouldn't leave it "naked". I was considering a combination of a NuShield (http://www.nushield.net/), and a glossy AR layer. I was in contact with someone at an optical lab near me, and he offered to sell me an AR film. He said they work more with military/gov't monitors and don't do much with notebooks, so I don't think he was really trying to sell me anything. The way he described it was this:
Would putting something like that on top of the current AG layer work, or would that just make things worse? If it's a minor difference I may just do that (college students don't have disposable income so I have to be careful!) 🙂
There is also a company you can ship your laptop to and they (supposedly) have the equipment and cleanroom necessary to repolarize the screen. It costs $100, but I don't like the idea of shipping a brand new laptop to some random company I found on the internet. 🙂
Also, after reading this forum I now want to make a projector! I'd always considered buying one, but I generally prefer DIY things because I like seeing how stuff works. 🙂
If I did remove the AG layer, I wouldn't leave it "naked". I was considering a combination of a NuShield (http://www.nushield.net/), and a glossy AR layer. I was in contact with someone at an optical lab near me, and he offered to sell me an AR film. He said they work more with military/gov't monitors and don't do much with notebooks, so I don't think he was really trying to sell me anything. The way he described it was this:
Would putting something like that on top of the current AG layer work, or would that just make things worse? If it's a minor difference I may just do that (college students don't have disposable income so I have to be careful!) 🙂
There is also a company you can ship your laptop to and they (supposedly) have the equipment and cleanroom necessary to repolarize the screen. It costs $100, but I don't like the idea of shipping a brand new laptop to some random company I found on the internet. 🙂
Also, after reading this forum I now want to make a projector! I'd always considered buying one, but I generally prefer DIY things because I like seeing how stuff works. 🙂
Check this, and two images from "Pirates of the Carribean":
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2833&st=100
This guy has simply sharpened the second image with some graphics software, and claims that this extreme and overdone sharpness is a result of antiglare removal. Look at the artifacts, caused by excessive sharpening algorithms, thin lines around edges, and little details turned into small, sharp squares. They have already banned me for uncovering their "marketing tricks".
And don't worry, antiglare removal will not spoil the image like in the example above. It will make a picture a bit sharper, but not that excessive. Someone has to practice Photoshop (no need to buy LL membership to do this 🙂
Regards
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2833&st=100
This guy has simply sharpened the second image with some graphics software, and claims that this extreme and overdone sharpness is a result of antiglare removal. Look at the artifacts, caused by excessive sharpening algorithms, thin lines around edges, and little details turned into small, sharp squares. They have already banned me for uncovering their "marketing tricks".
And don't worry, antiglare removal will not spoil the image like in the example above. It will make a picture a bit sharper, but not that excessive. Someone has to practice Photoshop (no need to buy LL membership to do this 🙂
Regards
Jenny, I purchased a 1920 x 1200 panel which I believe is the same one used in at least one of the Dell's you were referring to. It was purchased as part of a group buy from a fellow who posts here under the name Minoten...
http://members.cox.net/minoten/
Over a lumenlab I believe there have been two or maybe three people who have attempted AG removal on these panels. I think only one person has so far been successful. So far these panels have proven stubborn for AG removal via the water soak method. One guy even soaked his panel for some 24 hours and only manged to get up a small piece of AG on the corner. From what I've read so far, seems that the AG on those panels are somewhat brittle and are adhered strongly to the polarizer underneath. As far as I know, no one has attempted removing the AG on these panels with any other method. The one guy who did manage to get his AG off wound up ruining his LCD though the damage was probably caused by his bending one of the FFC cables a little too much.
Right now I wouldn't recommend trying AG removal on it until someone finds a fool proof way of doing it.
http://members.cox.net/minoten/
Over a lumenlab I believe there have been two or maybe three people who have attempted AG removal on these panels. I think only one person has so far been successful. So far these panels have proven stubborn for AG removal via the water soak method. One guy even soaked his panel for some 24 hours and only manged to get up a small piece of AG on the corner. From what I've read so far, seems that the AG on those panels are somewhat brittle and are adhered strongly to the polarizer underneath. As far as I know, no one has attempted removing the AG on these panels with any other method. The one guy who did manage to get his AG off wound up ruining his LCD though the damage was probably caused by his bending one of the FFC cables a little too much.
Right now I wouldn't recommend trying AG removal on it until someone finds a fool proof way of doing it.
he quite clearly says that he tweaked the projection (not the still picture) in addition to removing the anti-glare and that that needed to be taken into account also when looking at the screenshots.... I don't think photoshop works on moving images ;-) .... but maybe it does.... or you could use the video controls on your pj(if you use a pc to drive it that is)pepe303 said:
well, the "easy" way to see how much difference removing the anti-glare(or encapsulating it like you talk about adding the AR film will do) is to use some packing tape on your LCD on the AAG side, fold over a corner so you will be able to remove it easily(always pull parallel to the screen when removing it) ...make sure the tape is securely adhered to the AG and just give it a look.... if it doesn't look that much different then I wouldn't worry about it....jenny9580 said:
Proview PL566s
I just removed the antiglare & diffuser layer from my proview 15" LCD last night with good results. I covered the front surface with water-saturated paper towels for 2 hours, and then peeled it right off with no problems at all. That left a polarizer surface that was perfectly clean. All I did after removing the AG was to gently blot up a few water droplets left behind, before reassembling it all.
The back surface of this LCD does not have such a layer, so I now have a much more transparent LCD to work with. Now I can see a real arc image when I put a piece of white paper where the projection lens goes, so it is easier to tune the fresnel and lamp distances. I also am getting quite a bit more light through to the screen.
I just removed the antiglare & diffuser layer from my proview 15" LCD last night with good results. I covered the front surface with water-saturated paper towels for 2 hours, and then peeled it right off with no problems at all. That left a polarizer surface that was perfectly clean. All I did after removing the AG was to gently blot up a few water droplets left behind, before reassembling it all.
The back surface of this LCD does not have such a layer, so I now have a much more transparent LCD to work with. Now I can see a real arc image when I put a piece of white paper where the projection lens goes, so it is easier to tune the fresnel and lamp distances. I also am getting quite a bit more light through to the screen.
Do you happen to have a lumen meter or anything to quantify those findings?
I removed mine a few days ago on a Kogi L4AX, and even after 12 hours it wasn't suitably ready to remove. Haven't noticed any real difference. And after examining before and after pics there really isn't any difference in my results.
I removed mine a few days ago on a Kogi L4AX, and even after 12 hours it wasn't suitably ready to remove. Haven't noticed any real difference. And after examining before and after pics there really isn't any difference in my results.
lux on the screen
Yes, I do have a Lux meter. Before I removed it, I had about 70 Lux on the center of a white screen image. Now I have 131 Lux in the very center. (But of course, this is just what I see with my particular LCD.)
But a big part of that was tuning the fresnel and lamp distances. With non-diffused rays coming out of the LCD, I could make the fine adjustments to get more of the light into the projection lens. Instead of a big blob of light at the projection lens, now I get a much smaller arc image.
If you just remove the AG layer, and then fail to adjust your arc image position, you may get little benefit. In fact, you could even make things worse if things were so badly adjusted that your projector depended on diffused rays to get anything at all to the screen!
it's easy to see if your arc image position is optimal: Just put a piece of white paper where the center of the projection lens normally goes. Then move it back and forth until you find the smallest (best focussed) arc image. If it falls right in the middle of the lens, then that is optimal. If it is before or after the lens, then you can improve it by making some fresnel or lamp arc adjustments. (If you have an AG diffuser layer on your LCD, then you won't see an arc image. You can try for the smallest blob of light.)
Yes, I do have a Lux meter. Before I removed it, I had about 70 Lux on the center of a white screen image. Now I have 131 Lux in the very center. (But of course, this is just what I see with my particular LCD.)
But a big part of that was tuning the fresnel and lamp distances. With non-diffused rays coming out of the LCD, I could make the fine adjustments to get more of the light into the projection lens. Instead of a big blob of light at the projection lens, now I get a much smaller arc image.
If you just remove the AG layer, and then fail to adjust your arc image position, you may get little benefit. In fact, you could even make things worse if things were so badly adjusted that your projector depended on diffused rays to get anything at all to the screen!
it's easy to see if your arc image position is optimal: Just put a piece of white paper where the center of the projection lens normally goes. Then move it back and forth until you find the smallest (best focussed) arc image. If it falls right in the middle of the lens, then that is optimal. If it is before or after the lens, then you can improve it by making some fresnel or lamp arc adjustments. (If you have an AG diffuser layer on your LCD, then you won't see an arc image. You can try for the smallest blob of light.)
Wow that is a pretty impressive improvement.
As far as my results go I re-alligned everything optimally afterwards. Thing was that I was making my comparison with the pictures which were being auto-adjusted to a set brightness by the camera, so obviously they looked the same 😀
Two quick questions though: Are lux meters expensive? and where would one go about buying one? Thanks Guy.
As far as my results go I re-alligned everything optimally afterwards. Thing was that I was making my comparison with the pictures which were being auto-adjusted to a set brightness by the camera, so obviously they looked the same 😀
Two quick questions though: Are lux meters expensive? and where would one go about buying one? Thanks Guy.
Lux meter
I use one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Digital-LCD...goryZ708QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
$34.50 including shipping from Hong Kong
I use one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Digital-LCD...goryZ708QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
$34.50 including shipping from Hong Kong
Re: Lux meter
thats the same meter I have, works pretty well, though I don't think its CIE compliant...anyway Guy: what size screen did you get your readings on? did you do an ansi 9 point? just curious.. what kind of light engine setup do you have (not sure if you have project logs over here)
Guy Grotke said:
thats the same meter I have, works pretty well, though I don't think its CIE compliant...anyway Guy: what size screen did you get your readings on? did you do an ansi 9 point? just curious.. what kind of light engine setup do you have (not sure if you have project logs over here)
Re: Lux meter
Thanks for the info, it will be nice to be able to know for sure when adjustments have helped rather than just guessing.
Guy Grotke said:
Thanks for the info, it will be nice to be able to know for sure when adjustments have helped rather than just guessing.
Antiglare layer on both sides?
Hello,
I am new to this forum. I have been following all the wonderful discussion and I tried to remove my AG layer from my lcd. I did soak it for about 12 hours and peeled the layer and it came of smoothly. However, I noticed that the other side of the lcd corner had peeled off a bit too. It was a transparent film just like the AG layer and I am not sure if the AG layer is on both sides or just on one side. Pls let me know if this is an AG layer or if this is something else.
I am not sure if I should proceed to remove that layer too. Any help or advice is appreciated a lot.
Thanks.
Hello,
I am new to this forum. I have been following all the wonderful discussion and I tried to remove my AG layer from my lcd. I did soak it for about 12 hours and peeled the layer and it came of smoothly. However, I noticed that the other side of the lcd corner had peeled off a bit too. It was a transparent film just like the AG layer and I am not sure if the AG layer is on both sides or just on one side. Pls let me know if this is an AG layer or if this is something else.
I am not sure if I should proceed to remove that layer too. Any help or advice is appreciated a lot.
Thanks.
If it's clear it's just the rear TAC layer.
You can pull it off and it will increase bightness and clarity a little more.
You can pull it off and it will increase bightness and clarity a little more.
Hailrazor,
Thx for the info. I did go ahead and pulled that layer off too. It was a clear transparent layer (unlike semi transparent layer like AG). My lcd looks more bright though. I cannot wait to get my LL kit to use it. I am just too impatient and so I wnet ahed with the AG removal.
Thanks again.
Thx for the info. I did go ahead and pulled that layer off too. It was a clear transparent layer (unlike semi transparent layer like AG). My lcd looks more bright though. I cannot wait to get my LL kit to use it. I am just too impatient and so I wnet ahed with the AG removal.
Thanks again.
A/G question.
Ok, removed my A/g today. My LCD just went white when i turned it on a test run. But if im holding the A/G infront of the LCD I can see a image. why is that? Im building a projector right now and i wonder if I need the A/G? Are the lenses in the projector going to fix this issue?
/Thanks and Im sorrry for my bad english.
Please answer fast!
Ok, removed my A/g today. My LCD just went white when i turned it on a test run. But if im holding the A/G infront of the LCD I can see a image. why is that? Im building a projector right now and i wonder if I need the A/G? Are the lenses in the projector going to fix this issue?
/Thanks and Im sorrry for my bad english.
Please answer fast!
you just fed-up a perfectly working lcd!!! but luckily you can fix it by odering a new poly filter from sites such as 3dlens i think and maybe izzotek.com
So the filter i removed was nessesary? Do I need the poly? What is the poly doin? Can lenses fix this? I thought i removed the anti-glare stuff to get a better image?
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