That's what I've ended up doing.
It's also helped with trying different size cones and patterns, as it's more of a 'universal' mount.
Plus it's not to hard to match plate hole to driver, and then match the plate to cone. Easier to get good driver to cone alignment i think..
As long as the two holes are on opposite sides of the driver, and the mounting flange is well attached to the horn so that it won't warp, two holes should be OK.
Using studs in the driver and nuts may be easier to fit, though I recall some bloody knuckles resulting from my SynTripP HF driver attachment...
Art
Thanks for the replies! I'll start with the simpler two bolt with wood flange. and evaluate from there. I think switching to an aluminum plate would be a better long-term solution but I should be able to revisit that after getting things up and running first.
Progress has been slow - I haven't had as much free time as I thought :-\
I have three primed cones built and ready for final paint but have not started cabinets yet.
I decided to wire one up yesterday and take it for a spin - sound is really great! even with the open baffle.
I have three primed cones built and ready for final paint but have not started cabinets yet.
I decided to wire one up yesterday and take it for a spin - sound is really great! even with the open baffle.
Attachments
You have been busy 
I used 2 bolts cut down shorter with nuts on the flare side for my CDs. You can route out a bit of space for the spanner / nuts if need be.
Rob.
I used 2 bolts cut down shorter with nuts on the flare side for my CDs. You can route out a bit of space for the spanner / nuts if need be.
Rob.
Just got back to my synergy project!
I'm making cabinets out of bamboo. they're based on "tony's cab" design but I've tweaked the dimensions a little
I have the first cabinet (of three) gluing up.
I'm making cabinets out of bamboo. they're based on "tony's cab" design but I've tweaked the dimensions a little
I have the first cabinet (of three) gluing up.
Attachments
Last edited:
Very nice !
Synergy's redefine number of clamps needed, huh ?
What did you end up thinking about your 3 cabinet project?
Did you enclose the 'open baffle' pict as shown in June post?
Synergy's redefine number of clamps needed, huh ?
What did you end up thinking about your 3 cabinet project?
Did you enclose the 'open baffle' pict as shown in June post?
Hah. I’m not done thinking about it. I never did enclose the blue baffle. I had planned to make a quick shell for it an run tests. But later realized I won’t have time. I happened to have a sheet of bamboo and three cabinets sort of fit - so I’m running at it and hoping to have it done before I start a new job.
I’m not sure what to do with the third speaker. I may hold on to it as a mono setup and maybe someday the three will end up in a HT configuration
I’m not sure what to do with the third speaker. I may hold on to it as a mono setup and maybe someday the three will end up in a HT configuration
What's your plan for sealing the backs of the Gentos? They probably won't be happy arguing with the woofers.
I have little cups from TAP plastic that fit neatly over them and allow access to the mounting screws. But They won’t get installed until the final assembly (after painted horns and sealed cabinets).
Hi chicofi
I’d like to build a synergy as well, and Bill’s Cosyne gets nothing but praise and is without a doubt the best documented.
I’ve been using some Oris horns with full range drivers for a while and after one got knocked over recently and damaged I switched them out to an open baffle project that I revised.
It made me realize that although I like the sensitivity, detail and point source qualities of the Oris/fullrange combo...that essentially my head was in a vise due to how directional they are in my modest living room.
I’m not over horns. My DIY system was built around having higher sensitivity speakers. I want to maintain the point source quality of the Oris/fullrange. I need something with better horizontal dispersion I think.
I read the entire SynTripp thread and thought about trying to use it as a basis to design a synergy with B&C 8pe21 and Radian 760neopb drivers I already own.
I’m not sure I have the confidence even after finally understanding Bill’s spreadsheet after reading the pdf and studying it over a couple days.
I started trying to model the 8pe21 in a multi entry in hornresp. I’m not familiar enough with it to get anything that looks right. It doesn’t help that I can’t find any published T/S parameters for the Radians online.
As Bill and you said the Aurasound NS6 8 Ohm drivers are unobtainium...but it is possible to get the 4 Ohm version along with the Gentos and Celestion CD.
Can anyone tell me what adjustments would need to be made in order to use the 4 Ohm Aurasound drivers?
I am not tied to the passive crossover. I would actually prefer to use a pair of the DIY Bi Amp electronic crossover kits I have already purchased from the DIYAudio store. In the mean time I do have a MiniDSP for testing and a few other options.
Sorry, don’t mean to thread jack. I figured since you mentioned the 4 Ohm drivers it was related...plus this is a recent thread. I tried PMing Bill, but his box is full.
Regards
Kevin
I’d like to build a synergy as well, and Bill’s Cosyne gets nothing but praise and is without a doubt the best documented.
I’ve been using some Oris horns with full range drivers for a while and after one got knocked over recently and damaged I switched them out to an open baffle project that I revised.
It made me realize that although I like the sensitivity, detail and point source qualities of the Oris/fullrange combo...that essentially my head was in a vise due to how directional they are in my modest living room.
I’m not over horns. My DIY system was built around having higher sensitivity speakers. I want to maintain the point source quality of the Oris/fullrange. I need something with better horizontal dispersion I think.
I read the entire SynTripp thread and thought about trying to use it as a basis to design a synergy with B&C 8pe21 and Radian 760neopb drivers I already own.
I’m not sure I have the confidence even after finally understanding Bill’s spreadsheet after reading the pdf and studying it over a couple days.
I started trying to model the 8pe21 in a multi entry in hornresp. I’m not familiar enough with it to get anything that looks right. It doesn’t help that I can’t find any published T/S parameters for the Radians online.
As Bill and you said the Aurasound NS6 8 Ohm drivers are unobtainium...but it is possible to get the 4 Ohm version along with the Gentos and Celestion CD.
Can anyone tell me what adjustments would need to be made in order to use the 4 Ohm Aurasound drivers?
I am not tied to the passive crossover. I would actually prefer to use a pair of the DIY Bi Amp electronic crossover kits I have already purchased from the DIYAudio store. In the mean time I do have a MiniDSP for testing and a few other options.
Sorry, don’t mean to thread jack. I figured since you mentioned the 4 Ohm drivers it was related...plus this is a recent thread. I tried PMing Bill, but his box is full.
Regards
Kevin