Another Bridge/Parallel Gainclone Question...

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avenger,

Please bear with me on this but here it goes.

When I was building my bridge parallel, I was too lazy to include the dc servo but not that lazy in matching my components. The resistors for example are 5% tolerance! So I have to measure them carefully with a DMM, that is the reason why I bought a lot of them but they are very cheap. Even the 0.1ohms 5 watt resistors are 5% tolerance so I bought a lot. I then pick the ones with the closest values and used them in my non-inverted pcb for the 549 (see my website). I wired it up, and couple it to a DRV134 for the input. Guess what? the whole amp heats up with a load! :hot:

I then said to myself, maybe I need the servos after all:smash: , but there was this basic circuit in AN1192 that uses dc blocking caps instead of servos. I desoldered one leg of the 1Kohm resistor (going to ground) and insert a small 22uf electrolytic and my problems were solved! :cool: No more heat dissipation without load, even with a load without volume.

I still can't believe that a single cap is all I need to clear that output. I tried it in a single 549, without the cap I measure 0.005V dc offset and with the cap I can barely measure a 0.001V. At a 20mV setting I can measure a 0.01mV dc offset which in my book is a very outstanding offset. :D

I urge you to try it, I never thought a chipamp in such a configuration can handle a lot of power before but now I have proven to myself that sometimes simple things can be good, and in a diyer's hand, can be better.

Best regards,
JojoD
 
also did you use the exact schematic as in your second post? with the balanced input? how does it sound?
im planning on building an identical one this weekend as i just got the transformers :) so im just trying to iron out details so the project goes as smoothly as possible!
Thanks,
Matt
 
I use the drv134 for the input. Now, consider the schematic below, it's a non-inverting version from the datasheet. I build 2 pairs of this wherein each pair is in parallel. Now each pair gets their input from one of the drv134's output. Simple isn't it?

The 22uf cap that saved me a lot of headache was inserted between R1 and ground.

HTH,
JojoD
 

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