Enough. If you continue to accuse and squabble then not only will the thread be closed but you will also get some time out from the forum.
Dear all, thank you so much for your help and support and I am sorry if I triggered any conflict. Finally my l-adapters are working properly and the solution was buying a new button.
I'm so glad to hear from you again, since you took a nail from my mind! 🙂
However, given I was the first to suggest you to buy a different switch (and I say this not as self-incensing, but just as a chronological fact) I want to be also the first to ask you how did you solve your issue.
I'm sure it will interest not only me, but also other readers with the same issue as you. 😉
However, given I was the first to suggest you to buy a different switch (and I say this not as self-incensing, but just as a chronological fact) I want to be also the first to ask you how did you solve your issue.
I'm sure it will interest not only me, but also other readers with the same issue as you. 😉
@Chymist
Whatever happened was not your fault. You should see what regularly happens in unmoderated newsgroups on Usenet.
In case you didn't know, Usenet is a separate network which is not based on the WWW. It predates www by a long while and the forums called 'newsgroups' were the main means of interaction between those with a common interest. Some newsgroups are/were moderated but most are not. It's like the Wild West, not for the thin skinned. But it's where you could interact with the masters, like Winfield Hill, author of "The Art of Electronics" which is widely regarded as the bible of electronics design, and others who design processors, ICs and develop state-of-the-art technologies.
Have a nice day.
Whatever happened was not your fault. You should see what regularly happens in unmoderated newsgroups on Usenet.
In case you didn't know, Usenet is a separate network which is not based on the WWW. It predates www by a long while and the forums called 'newsgroups' were the main means of interaction between those with a common interest. Some newsgroups are/were moderated but most are not. It's like the Wild West, not for the thin skinned. But it's where you could interact with the masters, like Winfield Hill, author of "The Art of Electronics" which is widely regarded as the bible of electronics design, and others who design processors, ICs and develop state-of-the-art technologies.
Have a nice day.
I put this rocket switch from APIELE
https://www.apiele.com/products/3pi...le-switch-round-4color?variant=41868809306277
https://www.apiele.com/products/3pi...le-switch-round-4color?variant=41868809306277
I gathered from your previous posts that you want a switch to control the AC mains input to a transformer. This switch is not suitable. Both the LED and the switch contacts are rated for 12V DC. This is worse than the first one. At least that one had contacts rated for 230V AC.
It may work at first if you wire it correctly but it is likely to break down later and it's not safe.
3 pages of postings, an nobody ever bothered to read properly, what´s written i the first post 🙁
It states clearly: "The + and - are lamp terminals". LAMP..... Not LED.
It further says: "The terminals have NO difference of anode and cathode". Although a pretty bad translation, most
would read this as a lamp, not LED, that would light up on AC. Only problem is to connent it properly through the switch.
As to the voltage rating, Supplier (at least in EU) is obligated to provide all data needed to do this safely.
If they can´t do that, full refund is mandatory.
Audiophonics is a well regarded shop. You should have no trouble in getting the full spec´s or a full refund😉
It states clearly: "The + and - are lamp terminals". LAMP..... Not LED.
It further says: "The terminals have NO difference of anode and cathode". Although a pretty bad translation, most
would read this as a lamp, not LED, that would light up on AC. Only problem is to connent it properly through the switch.
As to the voltage rating, Supplier (at least in EU) is obligated to provide all data needed to do this safely.
If they can´t do that, full refund is mandatory.
Audiophonics is a well regarded shop. You should have no trouble in getting the full spec´s or a full refund😉
Yeah... probably my bad.
But...... Audiophonics states 12 volt diode.
The manufacturer states lamp with no difference of + & - terminals. Who to believe??
Indeed pooly organized.
Since OP has found a new switch and made it work, I still wouldn´t accept the "loss" but demand a full refund,
based on "conflicting info" 😉
But...... Audiophonics states 12 volt diode.
The manufacturer states lamp with no difference of + & - terminals. Who to believe??
Indeed pooly organized.
Since OP has found a new switch and made it work, I still wouldn´t accept the "loss" but demand a full refund,
based on "conflicting info" 😉
These illuminated push button switches are typically 250VAC rated and come with several LED lighting voltages of 12VDC, 24VDC, 110VAC/DC and 220VAC/DC.
For 12VDC and 24VDC types, the polarity needs to be connected accordingly. For 110VAC/DC and 220VAC/DC types, there is no difference between the anode and cathode on the terminals since two LEDs of different polarities are connected in parallel internally.
I guess you do not like to buy from AE maybe for long time shipping, but I still think the following switch could be a nice choice for your needs: it's available in black and costs 1,00 EUR (77% discount), free shipping and 11 days delivery.
Faites vos jeux!
In the above diagram there is an error in the LED pins which are reversed, but I guess the LED just works the same. 😉
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Thanks a lot @ulogon !!! I may buy couple of them for the next projects.
@Pimpom To be honest, I went to the local shop to buy a switch, and that one was the right one. I didn't check the brand but I looked on the internet to find it and this is the one that it matches. Check the attached file you may find it .
@Pimpom To be honest, I went to the local shop to buy a switch, and that one was the right one. I didn't check the brand but I looked on the internet to find it and this is the one that it matches. Check the attached file you may find it .
Attachments
@Chymist
Nice DIY pieces of equipment (I guess a preamp + ext power supply + 2 mono power amps), just a bit raw-style (I like it), but I don't mind orienting most of the work (and money) towards substance and saving something on aesthetics.
The most important thing is that they sound good, as I'm sure they will.
Oh, the switches are nice too! 😉
Nice DIY pieces of equipment (I guess a preamp + ext power supply + 2 mono power amps), just a bit raw-style (I like it), but I don't mind orienting most of the work (and money) towards substance and saving something on aesthetics.
The most important thing is that they sound good, as I'm sure they will.
Oh, the switches are nice too! 😉
Yes, preamp + power supply , and the other 2 black boxes are the l-adapters to power up my Pi and router (you may check them here https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/l-adapter.336685/ ). I HIGHLY recommend them for your DAC and your streamer if you are looking for an amazing linear PSU.
They sound amazing 🙂 !! I am pretty excited!
They sound amazing 🙂 !! I am pretty excited!
I have a 12V version and it works both ways. I believe it's the AC/DC type.I guess you do not like to buy from AE maybe for long time shipping, but I still think the following switch could be a nice choice for your needs: it's available in black and costs 1,00 EUR (77% discount), free shipping and 11 days delivery.
Faites vos jeux!
View attachment 1329713
In the above diagram there is an error in the LED pins which are reversed, but I guess the LED just works the same. 😉
Hi
someone can help me to find a power switch with led as the ones on the posts but with double switch on ac line to isolate competely
Thx
Walter
someone can help me to find a power switch with led as the ones on the posts but with double switch on ac line to isolate competely
Thx
Walter
This matter is quite specific because typically if you say 12V you actually would mean 12VDC.
As far as I know, DC behaves differently from AC and the issue is related to the fact that the metal (the alloy) that makes up the pins of a DC switch must be adequate (quite hard) to withstand the formation of arcs (which with DC are more durable than AC).
Therefore for safe and last use with DC the switch should be fit for purpose, that's it must be written to the switch itself, the appropriate certification is now mandatory in many countries.
I guess DC/AC dual use is possible, although I don't recall having one, if so then note that the current rate should change between DC/AC uses, but also this is (read, should be) written on the switch.
Really, they're not too easy to find.
However, I've to thank you because thanks to your post I remembered having bought it two years ago, even though I no longer used it again (and at the moment I no longer know where I put them).
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/33055445497.html
It is a quality switch, nice, short (because I needed it very short), with LED and doubled pins (2NO).
This model in particular can use a dedicated connector which is convenient and functional and in fact I also bought a series of wired connectors.
Furthermore, it does not have pins dedicated to the LED because the LED connection is internal.
I remember that that seller (with whom I have no tie, neither with him nor with anyone else) is also very open to custom built.
Please also note that its current price is ridiculously low (look how much I paid for 2 units with 4 wired connectors).
I'm referring to LED voltage on this switch, not the switch rating. The LED in this switch can be connected bi-directionally, AC or DC, and there is no difference between anode and cathode on the terminals since two LED of different polarity are internally connected in parallel.
BTW, this switch is rated at 3A/250VAC.
Sorry if I misunderstood your comment and if I don't think I know about the above behaviour in a switch, but maybe it's even possible, are you sure?