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A new phone. A Samsung Galaxy S20+ 5G to replace the galaxy S5 I bought in 2014.
Only reason to buy an expensive phone for me, is the camera. I was looking to get an S10+ to get more cheaply, but very hard to find, and yesterday I found there is a sale on at Harvey Norman. Paid $1146. which is still too much for a phone (but ok for a camera), release price was $1899 and they'd come down to $1649, so all in all not too bad (and was cheaper than I was going to be paying for the S10+ I had found!)
Only downside is no 3.5mm headphone / microphone jack, so won't be plugging my IMM6 mic into it unless I get a converter (which may nullify the calibration) but I virtually never used it on the phone anyway 🙂
Charging at present before I power it on for the first time.
Tony.
Only reason to buy an expensive phone for me, is the camera. I was looking to get an S10+ to get more cheaply, but very hard to find, and yesterday I found there is a sale on at Harvey Norman. Paid $1146. which is still too much for a phone (but ok for a camera), release price was $1899 and they'd come down to $1649, so all in all not too bad (and was cheaper than I was going to be paying for the S10+ I had found!)
Only downside is no 3.5mm headphone / microphone jack, so won't be plugging my IMM6 mic into it unless I get a converter (which may nullify the calibration) but I virtually never used it on the phone anyway 🙂
Charging at present before I power it on for the first time.
Tony.
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I've just seen this in a local auction catalogue...
Lot 294
VINTAGE & LATER ENTERTAINMENT EQUIPMENT & SEPARATES and a quantity of LPs in a stylish perspex storage rack, equipment includes an AKAI 4000DS `reel to reel` recorder, two Heathkit valve tuner and selector, an Ariston digital quartz tuner TX-510 and a disc player, Technics separates including a direct drive SL-1200 record deck, a ST-2300 stereo tuner, a SU-3500 stereo integrated amplifier, a Pioneer SA-9100 stereo amplifier, a pair of small Rogers speakers and a Sansui D-X310W double cassette deck E/T
Guide price
£70 - £100
I think the guide price is a bit low.
Pity I'm away on business!!!!!!!!!!!!
Guide price
£70 - £100
Hammer price £1,600.0
Torx is great if you have good tools. I had some that bent in a sprial... Threw them away and got the same size by Bosch... No more twisting 🙂
I even started using Torx on some amp builds 🙂
I even started using Torx on some amp builds 🙂
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Every Canadian knows the best is the Robertson square head, invented in 1908.
I haven't used them all (there are dozens of them) so I can't say for sure what is "best" but when it comes to Robertson vs. Phillips - Robertson is approximately a million times better.
The only people who say different, are those who have never used Robertson.
I bought some pcb's from JLCPCB.
A transistor matcher and curve tracer.
The software will keep me out of trouble for a while.
A transistor matcher and curve tracer.
The software will keep me out of trouble for a while.
I haven't used them all (there are dozens of them) so I can't say for sure what is "best" but when it comes to Robertson vs. Phillips - Robertson is approximately a million times better.
The only people who say different, are those who have never used Robertson.
Never used them.
But Phillip's are better than slot
Pozidrive better than Phillip's
But I still dont understand why Allen Hex was not used everywhere, instead of either Phillip's or Pozidrive.
Allen cap screws are just great. So why are panhead hex seemingly non-existent?
Some of the interesting 'security's types are pretty good, like the tri-lobe
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"But I still dont understand why Allen Hex was not used everywhere, instead of either Phillip's or Pozidrive."
If you ever have the pleasure of using Robertson, you will feel exactly the same way about it as you do Allen Hex, but perhaps even more.
Don't get me wrong, your assessment is correct, IMO. It's just that Robertson is just as effective as Allen without being quite as "finicky". It is easier and quicker to get a square into a square hole, than it is to get a hex into a hex hole. I don't know why, but in practice that's the way it plays out. Perhaps it is because the square is tapered. Also, with Allen, there are a million different sizes and two different standards (metric and SAE) so finding the right one is a PITA. With Robertson, you can just look at the screw and know right away which driver to use.
Robertson is the only one that I can say is a "joy" to use in every way. Although TORX is pretty damned good too.
If you ever have the pleasure of using Robertson, you will feel exactly the same way about it as you do Allen Hex, but perhaps even more.
Don't get me wrong, your assessment is correct, IMO. It's just that Robertson is just as effective as Allen without being quite as "finicky". It is easier and quicker to get a square into a square hole, than it is to get a hex into a hex hole. I don't know why, but in practice that's the way it plays out. Perhaps it is because the square is tapered. Also, with Allen, there are a million different sizes and two different standards (metric and SAE) so finding the right one is a PITA. With Robertson, you can just look at the screw and know right away which driver to use.
Robertson is the only one that I can say is a "joy" to use in every way. Although TORX is pretty damned good too.
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Being a proud Canadian, I will defend Robertson's honour to the end. He had terrible business sense but that doesn't matter right now.
Philips has one main advantage. It will torque out. If you understand that, no further words are needed.
Philips has one main advantage. It will torque out. If you understand that, no further words are needed.
A quick video which highlights one of the best features of the Robertson system:
STOP SCREWING AROUND!!! (WnW #48) // Robertson -vs- Phillips -vs- Standard Screwdrivers - YouTube
STOP SCREWING AROUND!!! (WnW #48) // Robertson -vs- Phillips -vs- Standard Screwdrivers - YouTube
Confused by your word choice, Cal. I think I am imagining what you are saying, but not 100% sure, and I would say it is only an advantage in very specific situations.
Torquing out is the means by which excess torque can be released causing the least amount of damage and time.
It can save the tip, the bit, the tool and the operator, sacrificing only the screw head. It also prevents the screw from snapping. Torquing out was especially important before the advent of screw gun clutches or more advanced air systems in the automotive industry. When a partly driven screw snapped it cost the company untold delays.
It can save the tip, the bit, the tool and the operator, sacrificing only the screw head. It also prevents the screw from snapping. Torquing out was especially important before the advent of screw gun clutches or more advanced air systems in the automotive industry. When a partly driven screw snapped it cost the company untold delays.
In my experience that "feature" is almost* entirely dependent on forward (or downward) force, as I am sure you are aware. This force is entirely dependent on the physique and skill of the operator. The result of this is that many people of "average" strength and/or amateur skill will invariably strip the head of a Phillips screw before it is fully driven. In these cases, it is a huge disadvantage and the Robertson would prove far superior.
The Robertson will not "torque out" under most conditions, which could certainly lead to the problems that you have described. However, in the hands of a skilled craftsman with good tools these issues should be largely avoidable. Also, a strong person who applies enough forward/downward pressure can twist the screw head off a Phillips almost as easily as a Robertson.
* bit angle (lack thereof) is crucial, which is also a matter of skill. Coincidentally, the Robertson pretty-much guarantees zero bit angle.
Sorry, I love banter about minutia. Just having a bit of fun. And yes I do know you have likely driven thousands more screws than I have. 🙂
The Robertson will not "torque out" under most conditions, which could certainly lead to the problems that you have described. However, in the hands of a skilled craftsman with good tools these issues should be largely avoidable. Also, a strong person who applies enough forward/downward pressure can twist the screw head off a Phillips almost as easily as a Robertson.
* bit angle (lack thereof) is crucial, which is also a matter of skill. Coincidentally, the Robertson pretty-much guarantees zero bit angle.
Sorry, I love banter about minutia. Just having a bit of fun. And yes I do know you have likely driven thousands more screws than I have. 🙂
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The only thing I don't like about Robertson screws is the cosmetic appearance on a chassis.
Hex (or Allen, depending on where you're from) screw heads have the annoying issue of getting stuck to the driver bit if too much torque is applied. I myself am a huge fan of torx. It doesn't suffer from this issue, and there's no such thing as metric and imperial torx heads- they're all the same. They seem pretty resistant to stripping as well.
I still really like Pozi-drive, but what annoys me to no end is that only about .01% of the American population knows the difference between Phillips and Pozi-drive, so they use the wrong tool for the job and bugger up the screws.
My least favorite are those stupid pentalobe screws that Apple seems to like. Did we really need another security screw head? Really?
Hex (or Allen, depending on where you're from) screw heads have the annoying issue of getting stuck to the driver bit if too much torque is applied. I myself am a huge fan of torx. It doesn't suffer from this issue, and there's no such thing as metric and imperial torx heads- they're all the same. They seem pretty resistant to stripping as well.
I still really like Pozi-drive, but what annoys me to no end is that only about .01% of the American population knows the difference between Phillips and Pozi-drive, so they use the wrong tool for the job and bugger up the screws.
My least favorite are those stupid pentalobe screws that Apple seems to like. Did we really need another security screw head? Really?
I really like the Philips driver bits with the little ribbed tips [insert joke here], I think they're called ACR officially? Anyway, they really help to keep the bit in the screw head, especially with a power driver. When used with a torque clutch or hammer driver, the percussive action will sometimes cause the bit to actually stick in the screw head a little bit = much less cam-out slippage.
Seems like they used to be a lot easier to find - most brands seem to include this feature. But for some reason it's mostly disappeared again; I think I had to go online for the last set I bought. Not sure why.
Seems like they used to be a lot easier to find - most brands seem to include this feature. But for some reason it's mostly disappeared again; I think I had to go online for the last set I bought. Not sure why.
To avoid confusion:
A hex head screw uses a socket to fit over it and an Allen head uses a hex key to fit into it.
Jim, I think you described a Pozidriv head.
EDIT: Nope, I see ACR is different. Can't say I've ever seen that. Looks like Phillip's answer to Pozidriv.
A hex head screw uses a socket to fit over it and an Allen head uses a hex key to fit into it.
Jim, I think you described a Pozidriv head.
EDIT: Nope, I see ACR is different. Can't say I've ever seen that. Looks like Phillip's answer to Pozidriv.
Went through all of them and I can honestly say I have seen 75% of those. It helps when you have a buddy in the fastener business, specializing in security units.
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