And what did we buy today?

Do be careful of those cars
Thanks for the considerate thoughts jjasniew. Cars are one of the few things that haven't put me down yet, though not for their lack of trying. Or not trying.

You can buy a bicycle for that kind of money here
Same here. Wait a little longer and they usually go for a three quarter discount at the garage sale with five years and five miles on them. Most are punishing to ride at pace. With enough time in the saddle both tires and tubes become as personal a choice as shoes.
After some tweeter testing expecting a Jasper Jig from the Amazon fairy today.
 
Must be special indeed
Most 80+ percentile road tires are in the $100 CDN per end range today. Rolling resistance can vary by a factor or more than four. Given the miles I put on tires it's worth the extra cost for me. Plus run at moderate pressure these tires filter out almost all the punishment Toronto road quality dishes.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews
The only added splurge was on latex inner tubes.
 
A ZD-915 solder sucker. Cheap, but reasonable quality, main part of the case is metal. Used it last night to desolder the header strips from a Raspi Zero. They didn't exactly fall off, but I got both clear of the board in about 10 minutes and in good enough condition to be reused and didn't swear once. I'd actually avoided this job for some time because of the grrrrrrrr factor inherent in braid and manual pump desoldering.

The case fan is a bit noisy, it gets to temp in a couple of minutes and basically does the job. There are YouTube reviews of earlier units (blue with blue trim) but this one seems much improved on those w.r.t quality and fit of parts. I've not taken the lid off or the gun apart. Yet.

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Bought today, an AMR CD77 Red Book CD player. It has a failed mech (Sony KSS-213 (C probably)) Dac works fine. £700. I plan on taking the mech from a Sony player (so as to get a genuine Sony one), (I have used the Chinese clone ones before, they seem to work fine, but regard this machine as rather special), change the DAC chip for a Taiwan made one (unless that is what's in there already) and the output caps for some sort of copper foil types of the same value. I may do the valves, depending. Other things as yet to be decided. Even bought myself a new anti static wrist strap, just in case!
 
Bought a DT830B multimeter branded Uni-T from the Uni-T Aliexpress store. Don't laugh; it's for the car tool box. BUT the reason for mentioning it is that it cost only $4.87 INCLUDING DELIVERY from Hong-Kong to Perth. I expected a plain while box, no padding and no documents, but it came in a Uni-T box with an instruction leaflet and stamped and signed calibration certificate and a thank you card, wrapped in white foam and packed well. Of course, I don't expect it to be calibrated because there are no adjustments, but how do they do it for this price? Oh, the probes are crap, but they work well enough for the intended use... I was just fascinated to see what I'd get for that amount.
 
How do you know which are the better versions? Not that I intend to have a collection, but my very first meter as a lad was a Mastech version of the 830 which was constructed through hole and had fuses and pots, but now these are rare (unless you buy their kit version). But then there are many better meters for a low price if you're looking for that (Aneng's autoranging cheapies for example).

Mastech and Sinometer may be the only ones still making the 830 semi decently I think. A local electronics supplier sells a Mastech made 830 constructor's kit for a ridiculous price.

The one above is for a 4WD toolbox and may get submerged, hence the lowest cost meter was appropriate. Obviously there are so many better DMM's for a low cost nowadays, but not lower than $4.87! 🙂 This one doesn't even have a normal fuse or PTC, but it'll only be used for 12v and not current.

(BTW I do have half decent DMM's for 'serious' use...).

Sorry for the stray OT.
 
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