And aren't the 1702 a very odd PMOS device, like many other ICs from that period. They were almost running on just minus voltages.
The 1702's were PMOS as were a few other Intel chips. The processor / memory world went to NMOS around the time of the 1702 since N channel devices are inherently faster, or can be made smaller for the same performance.
The 2708 was a PMOS device as were all of the 27xx EPROMS. The 27Cxx chips were CMOS.
Negative voltage was still needed for the substrate to reduce leakage current, but somewhere around the 2716 the charge pump got built into the chip.
The 1801 and 1802 microprocessors from RCA were the first high volume CMOS processor chips. Motorola, Intel, Zilog, and others were still making NMOS chips.
We (Motorola) quietly had Hitachi make some CMOS 6801 chips for our two way walkie talkie radios. Our chips were too hungry and the RCA's weren't powerful enough. They were called 6301's by Hitachi.
I'm still using Office 2007. Amazingly, it still works fine on Windows 10 although most of my PC's still run W7, and one runs XP. M$ will find a way to force us to a yearly lease on Office, which will force me to find an alternative.
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Title: Planning the Perfect Kitchen
Author: Bo Niles, Juta Ristsoo
Title: Electric Power Systems
Author: B. M. Weedy
Title: Mospower Applications Handbook
Author: Rudy Severns
Title: Transmission Pricing and Stranded Costs in the Electric Power Industry
Author: William J. Baumol, J. Gregory Sidak
Title: Simplified Design of Building Structures
Author: James Ambrose
Book Description: Noticeably used
Author: Bo Niles, Juta Ristsoo
Title: Electric Power Systems
Author: B. M. Weedy
Title: Mospower Applications Handbook
Author: Rudy Severns
Title: Transmission Pricing and Stranded Costs in the Electric Power Industry
Author: William J. Baumol, J. Gregory Sidak
Title: Simplified Design of Building Structures
Author: James Ambrose
Book Description: Noticeably used
The build was half the fun, I went slow to enjoy the build.
I also have the matching TU-8200 amplifier
I like their products, they are fun to build and sound good.
Went down to Bunnings Warehouse and bought a Tactix 400mm Plastic tool box for holding all of my electrical work hand tools (and soldering irons/flux/tweezers/multimeters/coax stripper/crimp tools/screwdrivers).
I also bought a Weller SP40NUK 40w/230v soldering iron with LEDs. I plan on replacing the plug as I'm in aus.
Also went onto ebay and spotted that Jaycar has an online store there. So also picked up:
1) Stainless Steel Tweezer Set - TH1760
2) 3mm economy desolder braid NS3020
3) Deoxit brand rosin solder flux (RSP-R80-2, NS3070)
I have intentions of getting into SMD solder work at some point in the future.
I also bought a Weller SP40NUK 40w/230v soldering iron with LEDs. I plan on replacing the plug as I'm in aus.
Also went onto ebay and spotted that Jaycar has an online store there. So also picked up:
1) Stainless Steel Tweezer Set - TH1760
2) 3mm economy desolder braid NS3020
3) Deoxit brand rosin solder flux (RSP-R80-2, NS3070)
I have intentions of getting into SMD solder work at some point in the future.
Attachments
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Also bought two strain gauge phono preamp PCBs from Kevinkr and a PSU PCB.
Playing With Panasonic Strain Gauge Cartridges (And A Dedicated Phono Stage)
Playing With Panasonic Strain Gauge Cartridges (And A Dedicated Phono Stage)
Attachments
Surface mount actually is fairly easy, Just use a fine point iron and thin solder.
Start with a few simple projects first then move on to harder ones.
Yes. The weller 40w iron is purely for soldering point to point work and for soldering to large ground points on PCBs.
I needed a replacement for my Nelson soldering iron which I bought years ago which doesn't have replacement tips. So I decided to get the 40w Weller so I could find replacement tips easily.
I have yet to buy a temperature controlled soldering iron with a fine tip to replace my current cheapo chinese un-controlled temp 30w fine tip iron. The difficult part is finding a soldering iron which has replaceable tips and a temperature control on the handle rather than on a base station.
I'm bettting on 250c being the right temperature to shoot for for SMD work, any suggestions would be appreciated. Maybe a Weller 2020 would fit the bill, 20w soldering iron, 240v series. But it does get a bit too hot (396c) and I don't like working with uncontrolled temp irons anymore.
Something a bit more expensive that is just like this one would be ideal: Temperature Controlled Soldering Station for Cell Phone / IC / PCB Repair Stand | eBay
I have also been watching Louis Rossman videos on youtube for quite some time: YouTube
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I use a Weller 35 watt with a fine tip rhat is basically on a light dimmer to set the temp.
(I've been soldering for so long that I pretty much set the temp by feel.)
My first iron was a old wood burner iron.
No need to go expensive just lots of practice (take old things apart etc)
In time you will fun surface mount a mount as easy as leaded
And in some cases I dare say easier
(I've been soldering for so long that I pretty much set the temp by feel.)
My first iron was a old wood burner iron.
No need to go expensive just lots of practice (take old things apart etc)
In time you will fun surface mount a mount as easy as leaded
And in some cases I dare say easier
This new Yinhua 908 looks really nice:
YIHUA 908+ 220V 60W Electric Iron Soldering Station For Welding Rework 1 Set New | eBay
In fact I just bought one, that will be my SMD work and small component iron.
I've got a couple of kerosene burner irons somewhere in a box.
YIHUA 908+ 220V 60W Electric Iron Soldering Station For Welding Rework 1 Set New | eBay
In fact I just bought one, that will be my SMD work and small component iron.
I've got a couple of kerosene burner irons somewhere in a box.
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