There's never a reason to do less than a good job. Great job if you can.
Poor soldering will always bite you in the rear. Another excellent solder is Multicore, and there isn't anything wrong with Kester 60/40 either. I'm nearly done a 5 lb roll bought in the early 70's. I think I have another around here, I hope anyways.
-Chris
Poor soldering will always bite you in the rear. Another excellent solder is Multicore, and there isn't anything wrong with Kester 60/40 either. I'm nearly done a 5 lb roll bought in the early 70's. I think I have another around here, I hope anyways.
-Chris
I used to have a roll of solder I'd bought in the 90s which was doing me very well (but the flux sure was stanky). I ran out a while ago and got something from AliExpress without thinking too much about it.
I've used it a while but I don't think the alloy is consistent and neither is the flux. It is possible to make a good joint with it, but it never comes out as glossy as it should and sometimes it will refuse to take or just do weird **** (like going all chunky) which I don't expect solder to do. Maybe its just me, but I never had this problem before.
Time to get the proper stuff.
I'd ordered some 60/40, from RS, but they refused to send it (some EU thing as they're a british company).
So I had a look at what people were recommending and it seemed to be the Kester 63/37.
I am sure any decent solder would do the job. I used to have a roll of multicore (pinched off Dad) and it was very good stuff. There's 60/40 available locally but prices aren't great and I hear 63/37 is better so why not give it a go.
Hi soundbrigade,
Sounds like fun
Hi ubergeeknz,
Sounds like you had lead-free solder, an earlier form of it. Eutectic solder (what you have now) spends almost no time in the "plastic zone" as it cools. Other than that, there is nothing special about it. It is best used by people who shake or can't remain still. If you can, there is zero benefit from using it. Now you know. I wonder if they charged more for it? There is no reason to because it is merely a mixture ration they are worried about. Just like 60/40, the have to control the ratio.
-Chris
Sounds like fun
Hi ubergeeknz,
Sounds like you had lead-free solder, an earlier form of it. Eutectic solder (what you have now) spends almost no time in the "plastic zone" as it cools. Other than that, there is nothing special about it. It is best used by people who shake or can't remain still. If you can, there is zero benefit from using it. Now you know. I wonder if they charged more for it? There is no reason to because it is merely a mixture ration they are worried about. Just like 60/40, the have to control the ratio.
-Chris
There wasn't much difference in cost (the way things go with variable shipping policies to New Zealand, many sellers only offer gold plated shipping)
Guess I'll see how it is when it arrives [emoji106]
Hi Chris,
Well, it all comes down to the price in that case, doesn't it?
I have to agree with you on both of your points. A pound will last the average person a long time. Also, I really can't stand tall tales involving half truths and all out lies either. I have no patience for that at all.
Hi ubergeeknz,
You'll really like the eutectic once you get a chance to try it. Other hints would be to make sure the solder joint site has no oxides or anything else on it, and sometimes liquid solder flux makes a massive difference. It does a lot of really positive things for you on PC boards and rough terminals, connectors and even PCB material. Make certain that if you use solder flux, it is for electronics use and not the plumbing kind. That stuff will eat everything. You can get solder with it inside too - for plumbing. It usually says "acid core" or something to that effect. That will eat a PCB, the components and your tip. Avoid at all costs!
What kind of soldering station are you using?
-Chris
Well, it all comes down to the price in that case, doesn't it?
I have to agree with you on both of your points. A pound will last the average person a long time. Also, I really can't stand tall tales involving half truths and all out lies either. I have no patience for that at all.
Hi ubergeeknz,
You'll really like the eutectic once you get a chance to try it. Other hints would be to make sure the solder joint site has no oxides or anything else on it, and sometimes liquid solder flux makes a massive difference. It does a lot of really positive things for you on PC boards and rough terminals, connectors and even PCB material. Make certain that if you use solder flux, it is for electronics use and not the plumbing kind. That stuff will eat everything. You can get solder with it inside too - for plumbing. It usually says "acid core" or something to that effect. That will eat a PCB, the components and your tip. Avoid at all costs!
What kind of soldering station are you using?
-Chris
I have a few syringes of "paste" electronics flux which works well, when it's needed. Very handy.
I'm using a Quicko 942 (hakko clone) which uses a changeable integrated tip. Can't remember the exact model but it is easy to use, nice handle, and maintains a good stable temperature. I have found I prefer a wedge tip for most soldering, but I have others for those "hard to reach places"
Hi ubergeeknz,
I have a Quicko 3104 as well. My latest irons that I love are KSGER clones of Hakko. Really nice in that they can remember the calibration for a few tips each. I keep one loaded for normal soldering and another for surface mount. I also love the "screwdriver tips". I also keep an ancient Solomon station for big jobs using a large screwdriver tip. Slower to heat, but it really dumps a lot of thermal energy into a joint when needed. My least favorite irons? Weller by far, Ungar even worse.
The KSGER stations I have are mated with the super small handles. Mine are made by Quicko and are the small tubular aluminum metal ones. They are light, and I can get into really small places with them. I'm using a T12-ILS tip for smd work, but I'm learning that I don't like it much. It doesn't seem to deliver actual heat into a joint. It melts solder just fine, but the profile is too narrow to conduct heat in a meaningful way. I'll probably go to a 1.2 mm tip.
-Chris
I have a Quicko 3104 as well. My latest irons that I love are KSGER clones of Hakko. Really nice in that they can remember the calibration for a few tips each. I keep one loaded for normal soldering and another for surface mount. I also love the "screwdriver tips". I also keep an ancient Solomon station for big jobs using a large screwdriver tip. Slower to heat, but it really dumps a lot of thermal energy into a joint when needed. My least favorite irons? Weller by far, Ungar even worse.
The KSGER stations I have are mated with the super small handles. Mine are made by Quicko and are the small tubular aluminum metal ones. They are light, and I can get into really small places with them. I'm using a T12-ILS tip for smd work, but I'm learning that I don't like it much. It doesn't seem to deliver actual heat into a joint. It melts solder just fine, but the profile is too narrow to conduct heat in a meaningful way. I'll probably go to a 1.2 mm tip.
-Chris
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
A cassette tape jig, for $340 Canadian, landed. One of those WHS-300 deals that come in a foam cutout type case. The head protrusion mark is a lot wider than the Teac one I used to have. I wonder if the thickness of the cool finish was taken into account. My Teac one was anodized only. This looks like powder coat. 
The small free moving part of the gauge looks unfinished from the cutting process. Not instilling confidence here. The Teac "feeler" part of the gauge was also anodized like the base was. Overall, finish was better and it cost me probably $60 ~ $80 back then. I had to buy two because I had an idiot technician who actually damaged the first one.
Now all I need are some alignment tapes with signals on them I can rely on.
-Chris
The small free moving part of the gauge looks unfinished from the cutting process. Not instilling confidence here. The Teac "feeler" part of the gauge was also anodized like the base was. Overall, finish was better and it cost me probably $60 ~ $80 back then. I had to buy two because I had an idiot technician who actually damaged the first one.
Now all I need are some alignment tapes with signals on them I can rely on.
-Chris
Book, ASCENT OF OLYMPUS MONS, by a friend of a friend. I have not started it, can't comment; reviews are encouraging.
Didn't buy so strictly OT, but WTH.
I was gifted a pair of Sennheiser HD650 by a work colleague - such a nice guy, sadly to be made redundant very soon.
So now I have about 2 weeks or so, to find a suitable way to repay his generosity. So far, all I have to offer is home brew Rhubarb wine.
I was gifted a pair of Sennheiser HD650 by a work colleague - such a nice guy, sadly to be made redundant very soon.
So now I have about 2 weeks or so, to find a suitable way to repay his generosity. So far, all I have to offer is home brew Rhubarb wine.
