Please post a picture of the other (copper) side of the crossover board, or better yet, draw the schematic of the crossover.
It's fairly easy without the PCB side : one inductor and two caps, a resistor
😕 ( while writing I was thinking of 2 caps in series on the tweeter : naaah ! )
L+C - Lowpass
R+C - Highpass
😕 ( while writing I was thinking of 2 caps in series on the tweeter : naaah ! )
L+C - Lowpass
R+C - Highpass
Defo need the stuffing! Why would they make the cabinet smaller when they gone to the trouble to make a floorstander? I've got an LCR meter that I've never used I'll have to look into what measurements I can get
Yes, that would be the most logical explanation, but maybe there are more components soldered on the copper side of PCB. Four black montage screws on the corners of the PCB suggest against possibility of more components, but better to be sure. Skodaboy?
Big, long standmounters will not be good looking and will demand special, short mounts. Loudspeaker manufacturers often makes (big) standmount loudspeakers with an "integral mount" masked as an extension of the upper enclosure, to look as a floorstander. Increased value appearance?
I once ran an old kef coda 7 without its crossover at whisper quiet levels and it had a lovely clairty to it.
Curious to see how your tweaks go skodaboy. I'm always interested to see people try to make a silk purse from a sows ear.
You could open up that lower section? Make it a holey brace? Go active? Diffraction control? Lots of fun ideas.
DIFFRACTIONBEGONE REVIEW
Sure as i had thought! crazy seeing as has been mentioned earlier the enclosure prob too small for drivers giving the pronounce mid bass hump.going to do some rough measurements -as is ,with just one driver connected and a pillows worth of stuffing!
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